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Right, my question is are they interchangeable?
Can i put the shorter one on instead of the grenade style?
Right, my question is are they interchangeable?
Can i put the shorter one on instead of the grenade style?
Maybe ill raise my chances of getting a reply if i add some pictures..
The short one is the optimal one. The second apparently fails often.
Are these two tensioners interchangeable?Attachments:Maybe ill raise my chances of getting a reply if i add some pictures..
The short one is the optimal one. The second apparently fails often.
Are these two tensioners interchangeable?Attachments:Eric has a VManual on timing belts. There one for your specific engine and that info is in there. its 15 bucks but its well worth it.
Basically you have two options.
One is to get the appropriate tool from a Honda dealership which is a couple hundred bucks.The other requires a lot of steps that would be best if eric got on here and described how to do it. But basically you make sure that the piston in cylinder #1 is completely at the bottom in the up or compression stroke. you remove the coil pack, and the spark plug then stuff it full of rubber tubing (approx 4 feet) then you crank on that baby until she breaks lose.
DONT do anything based on what i said i recomend geting erics timing belt video or wait for him to post on here. My description was just to give you a slight idea on what going to be going on.
You may need a breaker bar in order to break it loose btw.
Eric has a VManual on timing belts. There one for your specific engine and that info is in there. its 15 bucks but its well worth it.
Basically you have two options.
One is to get the appropriate tool from a Honda dealership which is a couple hundred bucks.The other requires a lot of steps that would be best if eric got on here and described how to do it. But basically you make sure that the piston in cylinder #1 is completely at the bottom in the up or compression stroke. you remove the coil pack, and the spark plug then stuff it full of rubber tubing (approx 4 feet) then you crank on that baby until she breaks lose.
DONT do anything based on what i said i recomend geting erics timing belt video or wait for him to post on here. My description was just to give you a slight idea on what going to be going on.
You may need a breaker bar in order to break it loose btw.
[quote=”Rick” post=93277]I use my impact wrench mostly for taking off the wheels. For most stuff I find that it is unwieldy to use an air powered tool–there are certain places it just doesn’t reach and you have to deal with the hose, etc. So unless I have a large/stuck bolt that is easy to access, I usually just use hand tools. Most of the time you need a little more finesse than muscle.
That said, when you need the impact gun it is a life-saver and would be on my short list to buy if I didn’t have one. Other things I’ve used it for include– removing the flywheel bolt from a couple engines, loosening rusty bolts (though it’s good to start at lower settings and let the “impact” break up the rust) from exhaust flanges, loosening head bolts (after I stripped one of them with a breaker-bar and socket a few days ago), rusty suspension components– ball joints, tie-rod ends, etc.
Honestly, it is really nice to have if only for wheels– you don’t have to worry about loosening the bolts before jacking the car up and it is a lot quicker. After starting them by hand, I also use the gun to run-down wheel nuts when I’m putting the wheels back on– I actually tighten them with a torque wrench as it should be done– but just get them lightly snugged with the impact gun.
I would recommend using hearing protection with the impact gun and, as I said above, take it easy with small or rusted bolts using a lower setting to allow the rust to break up from the impact action.[/quote]
Good advice, Thanks.
The main things i mess with are suspension so i have a feleling this will do the job in this area. And there is generally enough room for that in there. I wouldnt really use it for engine componets because like you said sometimes they require more finess.Do you have any idea on whether nor not a craftsman impact wrench has the impact setting capabillity? I havnt even used mine once before. I got it monday and just took it out of the box to look at it. Ill be sure to read the operating insturctions this time lol
[quote=”Rick” post=93277]I use my impact wrench mostly for taking off the wheels. For most stuff I find that it is unwieldy to use an air powered tool–there are certain places it just doesn’t reach and you have to deal with the hose, etc. So unless I have a large/stuck bolt that is easy to access, I usually just use hand tools. Most of the time you need a little more finesse than muscle.
That said, when you need the impact gun it is a life-saver and would be on my short list to buy if I didn’t have one. Other things I’ve used it for include– removing the flywheel bolt from a couple engines, loosening rusty bolts (though it’s good to start at lower settings and let the “impact” break up the rust) from exhaust flanges, loosening head bolts (after I stripped one of them with a breaker-bar and socket a few days ago), rusty suspension components– ball joints, tie-rod ends, etc.
Honestly, it is really nice to have if only for wheels– you don’t have to worry about loosening the bolts before jacking the car up and it is a lot quicker. After starting them by hand, I also use the gun to run-down wheel nuts when I’m putting the wheels back on– I actually tighten them with a torque wrench as it should be done– but just get them lightly snugged with the impact gun.
I would recommend using hearing protection with the impact gun and, as I said above, take it easy with small or rusted bolts using a lower setting to allow the rust to break up from the impact action.[/quote]
Good advice, Thanks.
The main things i mess with are suspension so i have a feleling this will do the job in this area. And there is generally enough room for that in there. I wouldnt really use it for engine componets because like you said sometimes they require more finess.Do you have any idea on whether nor not a craftsman impact wrench has the impact setting capabillity? I havnt even used mine once before. I got it monday and just took it out of the box to look at it. Ill be sure to read the operating insturctions this time lol
I see..Well i got the 1/2in on sale for $50 from $90 so i guess ill keep it for the moments when i need it. I have a 1/2in breaker bar but sometimes the space does not permit it. Ill pick a 3/8ths for the normall stuff
Is there a difference between a impact wrench and a drive wrench? Both being pnuematic?
Thanks,
I see..Well i got the 1/2in on sale for $50 from $90 so i guess ill keep it for the moments when i need it. I have a 1/2in breaker bar but sometimes the space does not permit it. Ill pick a 3/8ths for the normall stuff
Is there a difference between a impact wrench and a drive wrench? Both being pnuematic?
Thanks,
Well i didnt get it for the 10mm specifically i just got it for overall use and didnt want to run into a problem where the 3/8ths wouldnt get the job done.
Would you say a 3/8ths is more prctical for use on an Acura?
Well i didnt get it for the 10mm specifically i just got it for overall use and didnt want to run into a problem where the 3/8ths wouldnt get the job done.
Would you say a 3/8ths is more prctical for use on an Acura?
BTW its 400lbs/ft
BTW its 400lbs/ft
I checked out the side and front mounts and they all look good. No rubber decay, and no oil leaking out of the mounts.
This weekend im going get it on jack stands and really look into the supension parts. I looked last night with the car on the ground and i think that strut that isnt installed properlly may be bent..or the boot gives it that illusion. But the noise when driving over bumps like railroads is a ‘thud’ noise. After i diagnose the problem ill post my findings.
Thanks,
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