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Even if it works, how would we know? Also, the car manufacturers highly advise against using any sort of oil treatment, as they’re simply snake oil that will often clog up the filter and damage the engine.
Even if it works, how would we know? Also, the car manufacturers highly advise against using any sort of oil treatment, as they’re simply snake oil that will often clog up the filter and damage the engine.
Sylvania is the top kit recommended by the leading consumer testing magazine, but 3M is close behind. The UV coating is there right from the factory, but it eventually desintegrates, hence the need for these products. I restored mine with Sylvania – excellent results, but you can’t expect a brand new spanking look.
Sylvania is the top kit recommended by the leading consumer testing magazine, but 3M is close behind. The UV coating is there right from the factory, but it eventually desintegrates, hence the need for these products. I restored mine with Sylvania – excellent results, but you can’t expect a brand new spanking look.
Thanks.
Thanks.
335 is well known as one of the least reliable BMWs ever made though (but then you have to be very lucky to have any European brand car and expect Japanese car reliability). 328 on the other hand has had much better reliability history.
Also manufacturers cheat with all kinds of interesting tricks to get EPA ratings that have nothing to do with the actual MPG.
More information here: http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2013/mar/14/car-manufacturers-manipulating-fuel-efficiency-tests
335 is well known as one of the least reliable BMWs ever made though (but then you have to be very lucky to have any European brand car and expect Japanese car reliability). 328 on the other hand has had much better reliability history.
Also manufacturers cheat with all kinds of interesting tricks to get EPA ratings that have nothing to do with the actual MPG.
More information here: http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2013/mar/14/car-manufacturers-manipulating-fuel-efficiency-tests
Thanks,
Well the hoses seemed to be snug when I was attaching them on the radiator fittings. It took quite a bit of force to get them on, and I just used water so they slide easier.
Thanks.
Thanks,
Well the hoses seemed to be snug when I was attaching them on the radiator fittings. It took quite a bit of force to get them on, and I just used water so they slide easier.
Thanks.
Hi again,
even though I used a new worm drive clamp instead of the old original as in the video, apparently the lower hose is not fitted snug enough or something on the new rad, and dripping under pressure from where the hose meets the rad, even though the clamp seems very tight. I don’t want to overtighten, as the brass fitting will bend on the radiator (oops, already did this on the upper one, but it seems fine with the dent and is not leaking).
What should I do? Another clamp perhaps next to that one?? Anything else? I don’t want to waste the new coolant (a second time), and there’s so little space in the engine bay for this to be fun.
Thanks!
Hi again,
even though I used a new worm drive clamp instead of the old original as in the video, apparently the lower hose is not fitted snug enough or something on the new rad, and dripping under pressure from where the hose meets the rad, even though the clamp seems very tight. I don’t want to overtighten, as the brass fitting will bend on the radiator (oops, already did this on the upper one, but it seems fine with the dent and is not leaking).
What should I do? Another clamp perhaps next to that one?? Anything else? I don’t want to waste the new coolant (a second time), and there’s so little space in the engine bay for this to be fun.
Thanks!
I have a question about brass/copper radiators vs. aluminum. Since Honda engines are all aluminum, will using a brass/copper aftermarket radiator (I know they’re substandard, but I am unfortunately stuck with one) cause engine corrosion through electrolysis or galvanic corrosion?
Which coolant will better protect from corrosion of the engine and radiator in this combination?
Early 90s Hondas had brass/copper radiators at the time.
Thanks.
I have a question about brass/copper radiators vs. aluminum. Since Honda engines are all aluminum, will using a brass/copper aftermarket radiator (I know they’re substandard, but I am unfortunately stuck with one) cause engine corrosion through electrolysis or galvanic corrosion?
Which coolant will better protect from corrosion of the engine and radiator in this combination?
Early 90s Hondas had brass/copper radiators at the time.
Thanks.
Dorman 61138 fits!
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