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Of course the radiator is grounded :(. Not sure if they’re supposed to be grounded or not from the factory. I might replace the coolant with the so called lifelong waterless coolant to prevent the engine from corroding. It would suck to have to buy a new aluminum radiator just to prevent corrosion.
Can confirm that they burn quite a bit, but not through piston rings. My understanding is it’s all in the intake, especially if it’s in the VTEC mode. When I was buying the salesperson told me about it. S2000 also has this issue. Check your oil often.
Thanks for the suggestions. I’ve measured the voltage between the antifreeze and the engine block, and it’s there, but very low. And as long as the radiator is not grounded and the current is not flowing as in a battery, there should be no galvanic corrosion.
September 22, 2016 at 10:02 am in reply to: Going to replace my shocks, should I do springs? #868778Unfortunately complete assemblies are no longer manufactured, so i’ll pay a shop to use my old springs which seem ok to assemble/install the struts using a spring compressor. The OEM strut parts alone without the shock absorbers – the mounting bases, bump stops, bushings and washers/nuts cost $400 plus!!! Shock absorbers around $125 each. Hope it will be worth it… It would be nice to replace the bushings as well next, but as you know these things are money sinks, but if I were to sell the car it’s worth about $4000 irrespective of new parts… These cars still handle better than recent Accords for example, and have a performance VTEC as well. Really want it to last until 270K at least. Honda stopped making cool cars like this and the S2000 for some reason.
Should I measure the wheel well clearances or just the height of the front and rear?
Thanks.
15+ more years on my engine?? More worried about the brass radiator corroding the aluminum engine. Although, nowadays brass is mostly made of zinc, and zinc is a sacrificial anode…
In the case of the brass radiator and aluminum engine, they touch through antifreeze, which in this case is an electrolyte in a cell battery of sorts because of dissimilar metals. Antifreeze is still conductive a little despite water being distilled due to some minerals, etc. If the radiator happens to be grounded (as I understand it – from the factory it must not be grounded at all costs, but I could have screwed up installation). I just need to find a way to reliably test if I inadvertently grounded it and completed the circuit for the electrolysis to occur.
Thanks again.
Thank you all.
Technically they’re shocks with springs over them, since it’s a dual wishbone suspension, not McPherson, but it doesn’t matter since these terms are used interchangeably :).
How do I know if the springs are sagging, or if not sagging but good at supporting the weight still? I’ll have a shop do the the work in NJ or PA (which I need to find a reputable one as well).
Thanks again.
What brand of gas was it? Ethanol takes quite a bit of mileage out of gas. Thanks.
What brand of gas was it? Ethanol takes quite a bit of mileage out of gas. Thanks.
The engine could be pinging. Could explain why you are getting better mileage on higher octane. When it pings, it makes less power and more heat.
The engine could be pinging. Could explain why you are getting better mileage on higher octane. When it pings, it makes less power and more heat.
You have to negotiate at the invoice price. Dealer prices are BS.
You have to negotiate at the invoice price. Dealer prices are BS.
A fifth generation manual transmission Prelude would fit the bill nicely. Very reliable, and handling is great even without bolt-ons (dual wishbone suspension). Lots of bolt-ons available (suspension, exhaust, intake, but not really needed. The most fun to drive car Honda ever made, other than the S2000. I’ve been driving one for 12 years.
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