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Levin

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  • in reply to: Squealing when my AC/Blower is turned on. #477368
    LevinLevin
    Participant

      With the car in park or neutral and hand brake on, pop the hood and turn on the a/c. Pay attention to where the noise is coming from…most likely the a/c belt. If you can find the butterfly valve on the engine bay crank it a bit to raise the rpms to make the noise more distinguishable…if not get a helper to step on the gas a bit.

      If you want to spend 5-7$ you buy a can of belt dressing to spray the belt a tad to ONLY pinpoint the problem in that belt. Personally in the past i’ve used silicone spray lube or even a spray bottle with water and a tiny bit of dishwasher soap to spray the belt. Then retry…in most cases it’ll cause the noise to disappear or become very vague.

      Following, make a trip to your closest part store and grab yourself a new belt. Changing it may be easy/hard depending on the setup of your engine components

      in reply to: headlights wiring issue #477761
      LevinLevin
      Participant

        [quote=”deepToRnZz” post=38054]i have a 1988 nissan cefiro A31. when i turn the headlights on the dashlights arent working, nor the tailights and the headlights are stuck on high beam. Any ideas what it could be?[/quote]

        Start by checking the fuse(s) for the headlights, and go over the rest of them anyways.
        In my vehicle theres a fuse for each left/right headlight in the engine bay fusebox. There is also a relay for each headlight.

        When the fuse for the left headlight blew once it caused weird things happen alike to yours, and it also caused my highbeams to stay on constantly. Changing the one 20amp fuse made it all go back to normal.

        in reply to: headlights wiring issue #477366
        LevinLevin
        Participant

          [quote=”deepToRnZz” post=38054]i have a 1988 nissan cefiro A31. when i turn the headlights on the dashlights arent working, nor the tailights and the headlights are stuck on high beam. Any ideas what it could be?[/quote]

          Start by checking the fuse(s) for the headlights, and go over the rest of them anyways.
          In my vehicle theres a fuse for each left/right headlight in the engine bay fusebox. There is also a relay for each headlight.

          When the fuse for the left headlight blew once it caused weird things happen alike to yours, and it also caused my highbeams to stay on constantly. Changing the one 20amp fuse made it all go back to normal.

          in reply to: D4 light with ignition at II #477759
          LevinLevin
          Participant

            The D4 light flashing can indicate a problem with the transmission…which is very common in 98-02 v6 accords and even some i4 engines. The only thing that will prolong the life of these transmissions is frequent atfdw1 fluid drain and refills(not flushes), changing out the 2nd/3rd clutch pressure switches, and the addition of an atf cooler. Another thing some have done is change out their solenoid assembly and the filter screen that stays behind them. Sometimes just cleaning the filter alone can help. Doing all the above however does not mean your tranny will not die.

            As for the ignition cutting off. Another issue with the cars is the ignition switch for which there is a recall from Honda on. Replacing the switch consists of a $50 part and about 30mins of your time(if you do not have an aftermarket alarm/starter or etc hooked up and wired to the ignition harness). I’d recommend calling in to your closest Honda dealer first and see if you can get the recall done free of charge. I’ve had mine done 2ice while owning my 99 accord since 2007. Both times the dealer did it for free after a little arguing.
            Best guide for doing this yourself would be
            http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+1998-2002+Honda+Accord+Ignition+Switch/3285/1

            To test the ignition switch you would need a volt meter. Another way to test however is cycle the key from off to on(II) position frequently…if at anytime the gauge lights do not come on when in 2nd position the ignition switch is faulty.

            Lastly check the main relay. Just like our DRL boxes with failing solder joints, the main relay suffers from the same issue. This however usually will cause your car to not start…not die while running. You can feel the main relay clicking on/off if you simply place your finger on it as you turn the key to the on position.

            in reply to: D4 light with ignition at II #477365
            LevinLevin
            Participant

              The D4 light flashing can indicate a problem with the transmission…which is very common in 98-02 v6 accords and even some i4 engines. The only thing that will prolong the life of these transmissions is frequent atfdw1 fluid drain and refills(not flushes), changing out the 2nd/3rd clutch pressure switches, and the addition of an atf cooler. Another thing some have done is change out their solenoid assembly and the filter screen that stays behind them. Sometimes just cleaning the filter alone can help. Doing all the above however does not mean your tranny will not die.

              As for the ignition cutting off. Another issue with the cars is the ignition switch for which there is a recall from Honda on. Replacing the switch consists of a $50 part and about 30mins of your time(if you do not have an aftermarket alarm/starter or etc hooked up and wired to the ignition harness). I’d recommend calling in to your closest Honda dealer first and see if you can get the recall done free of charge. I’ve had mine done 2ice while owning my 99 accord since 2007. Both times the dealer did it for free after a little arguing.
              Best guide for doing this yourself would be
              http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+1998-2002+Honda+Accord+Ignition+Switch/3285/1

              To test the ignition switch you would need a volt meter. Another way to test however is cycle the key from off to on(II) position frequently…if at anytime the gauge lights do not come on when in 2nd position the ignition switch is faulty.

              Lastly check the main relay. Just like our DRL boxes with failing solder joints, the main relay suffers from the same issue. This however usually will cause your car to not start…not die while running. You can feel the main relay clicking on/off if you simply place your finger on it as you turn the key to the on position.

              in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477742
              LevinLevin
              Participant

                [quote=”Wayne613″ post=38103]Unless you go through their complete tables to compare and average out, it’s not going to tell you much of squat.

                Vast differences would alert you to a leak, restriction or the like, but they will vary RPM@Load from car to car. Even as the same year, make, and model.[/quote]

                The comparisons were all done at idle after we all traveled the same distance from a wings restaurant to another restaurant.
                What i’m trying to get that is the fact that their LTFT(long term average of what STFT has been doing somewhat) is different from each other and me. However their fuel mileage is pretty much the same in a tank of gas.

                in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477334
                LevinLevin
                Participant

                  [quote=”Wayne613″ post=38103]Unless you go through their complete tables to compare and average out, it’s not going to tell you much of squat.

                  Vast differences would alert you to a leak, restriction or the like, but they will vary RPM@Load from car to car. Even as the same year, make, and model.[/quote]

                  The comparisons were all done at idle after we all traveled the same distance from a wings restaurant to another restaurant.
                  What i’m trying to get that is the fact that their LTFT(long term average of what STFT has been doing somewhat) is different from each other and me. However their fuel mileage is pretty much the same in a tank of gas.

                  in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477725
                  LevinLevin
                  Participant

                    Something else i did last night…

                    I got together with a couple of friends whom all have the same accord. I tested their 4 cars and here were the results

                    Car#1 – gets great mileage at about 600/tank
                    Stft -15%
                    Ltft -17%

                    Car#2 – same mileage as #1
                    stft +5%
                    ltlft +3%

                    Car#3 – same mileage as #1
                    stft +6
                    ltlft +7%

                    Car#4 – same mileage as #1
                    stft -12
                    ltlft -5

                    Their fuel trims are all over the place but their mileage is unaffected. All other parameters between mine and their cars are the same. This thing has got me going crazy…

                    in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477318
                    LevinLevin
                    Participant

                      Something else i did last night…

                      I got together with a couple of friends whom all have the same accord. I tested their 4 cars and here were the results

                      Car#1 – gets great mileage at about 600/tank
                      Stft -15%
                      Ltft -17%

                      Car#2 – same mileage as #1
                      stft +5%
                      ltlft +3%

                      Car#3 – same mileage as #1
                      stft +6
                      ltlft +7%

                      Car#4 – same mileage as #1
                      stft -12
                      ltlft -5

                      Their fuel trims are all over the place but their mileage is unaffected. All other parameters between mine and their cars are the same. This thing has got me going crazy…

                      in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477723
                      LevinLevin
                      Participant

                        thisisbuod…if by gremlins we are referring to a parasite current draw, animals fawking around, humans stealing gas, rusted/broke wiring, worn vacuum hoses, leaking fuel lines…all have been checked and no signs shown.

                        twiggy02919…the speedometer test was done a couple of days ago as mentioned a couple of posts above. Keeping in mind possible minor timing issues with me pressing a stopwatch I concluded that the car traveled 105.1km according to odometer when it should’ve done only 100. 5.1Km being nearly neglible.

                        Wayne613…i tried 5w20 vs the usual 5w30 for 4000km with no difference. Transmission fluid is OEM honda ATF. Wheel bearings havent been changed all around since i got the car but neither show any issue. I did try emptying my trunk fully yesterday and testing out the mileage for this ongoing week and looking for any change. I’ve been using the same summer/winter tires for the past 3 years now alternating with season changes. Assuming a sticking caliper would cause excessive heat, i’ve used an IR thermometer to measure rotor temperature directly after a highway run consisting of a lot of brake usage. The front rotors were at the same temp, with the rear drums being colder but at the same temp respectively to each other.

                        mckrishes…the entire exhaust was changed from the 2″ stock exhaust to a 2.25″ aftermarket magnaflow exhaust about a year and half ago. the rattle occurred 3 years ago with the oem converter and was due to a broken substrate on the oem converter. the fouler is only pulling the o2 about 1cm away from exhaust stream. FPR does not show to have a leaky diaphragm after playing with it yesterday. Vacuum lines have all been tested with a vacuum gauge off the car and all hold vacuum with no leaks. Fuel filter is inside the gas tank along with the pump on the accord unfortunately. Ignition timing at idle is at about 11-12degrees.

                        in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477315
                        LevinLevin
                        Participant

                          thisisbuod…if by gremlins we are referring to a parasite current draw, animals fawking around, humans stealing gas, rusted/broke wiring, worn vacuum hoses, leaking fuel lines…all have been checked and no signs shown.

                          twiggy02919…the speedometer test was done a couple of days ago as mentioned a couple of posts above. Keeping in mind possible minor timing issues with me pressing a stopwatch I concluded that the car traveled 105.1km according to odometer when it should’ve done only 100. 5.1Km being nearly neglible.

                          Wayne613…i tried 5w20 vs the usual 5w30 for 4000km with no difference. Transmission fluid is OEM honda ATF. Wheel bearings havent been changed all around since i got the car but neither show any issue. I did try emptying my trunk fully yesterday and testing out the mileage for this ongoing week and looking for any change. I’ve been using the same summer/winter tires for the past 3 years now alternating with season changes. Assuming a sticking caliper would cause excessive heat, i’ve used an IR thermometer to measure rotor temperature directly after a highway run consisting of a lot of brake usage. The front rotors were at the same temp, with the rear drums being colder but at the same temp respectively to each other.

                          mckrishes…the entire exhaust was changed from the 2″ stock exhaust to a 2.25″ aftermarket magnaflow exhaust about a year and half ago. the rattle occurred 3 years ago with the oem converter and was due to a broken substrate on the oem converter. the fouler is only pulling the o2 about 1cm away from exhaust stream. FPR does not show to have a leaky diaphragm after playing with it yesterday. Vacuum lines have all been tested with a vacuum gauge off the car and all hold vacuum with no leaks. Fuel filter is inside the gas tank along with the pump on the accord unfortunately. Ignition timing at idle is at about 11-12degrees.

                          in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477586
                          LevinLevin
                          Participant

                            The ECU has been reset more than once with no change to the issue. I fully understand what fuel trims are and the distinguishment between LTFT and STFT.

                            What I was hoping was someone interpreting/making sense of the fuel trim parameters posted on the videos a couple of posts above…

                            [quote=”Wayne613″ post=37994]I know for newer cars it’s actually a good idea to kill the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) that houses the trim information when noting reduced fuel economy or sometimes performance. This resets the computer back to 0 for LTFT, so it can then re-learn. Usually a fuse specific to this, but yanking the negative battery cable for like a minute will do the job.

                            FT’s are just a computer mapping of RPM at load, averaging out, trying to anticipate what is needed to get (what it thinks is) stoichiometric based on the values it’s getting and has gotten in the past from the 02 sensors.

                            This is the difference for LT and ST fuel trims. LT is long-term, for example if it sees needing 5% less fuel at 1200RPMs and 30% Load a few times, the LTFT gets set to -5% the consecutive times until triggered to do differently by the programming. Short term is what it is currently seeing needed to get stoich with LTFT being at that set value. STFT should bounce from slightly rich to slightly lean at a set rpm/load.

                            Most times it’s a mechanical/electrical issue, but don’t underestimate programming fails or it simply learning via your lead-foot moments in stop and go traffic and never adjusting back. In some cases it can actually be the reverse. As in they might keep resetting those tables every few weeks, expecting it to magically get them their missing MPGs from when they replaced their battery 6 months ago; never giving the computer enough time to re-learn more aggressively leaning(in both senses of the word) trim values.

                            The strategies are vehicle/manufacturer dependent, usually written in C, and often have issues, hence them having revisions to the PCM/ECU regarding this. Usually best to yank the battery cable, then clean as much as you can (TB, IAC, MAF/P, etc), let the computer get the most out of the initial readings efficiency wise.[/quote]

                            in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477181
                            LevinLevin
                            Participant

                              The ECU has been reset more than once with no change to the issue. I fully understand what fuel trims are and the distinguishment between LTFT and STFT.

                              What I was hoping was someone interpreting/making sense of the fuel trim parameters posted on the videos a couple of posts above…

                              [quote=”Wayne613″ post=37994]I know for newer cars it’s actually a good idea to kill the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) that houses the trim information when noting reduced fuel economy or sometimes performance. This resets the computer back to 0 for LTFT, so it can then re-learn. Usually a fuse specific to this, but yanking the negative battery cable for like a minute will do the job.

                              FT’s are just a computer mapping of RPM at load, averaging out, trying to anticipate what is needed to get (what it thinks is) stoichiometric based on the values it’s getting and has gotten in the past from the 02 sensors.

                              This is the difference for LT and ST fuel trims. LT is long-term, for example if it sees needing 5% less fuel at 1200RPMs and 30% Load a few times, the LTFT gets set to -5% the consecutive times until triggered to do differently by the programming. Short term is what it is currently seeing needed to get stoich with LTFT being at that set value. STFT should bounce from slightly rich to slightly lean at a set rpm/load.

                              Most times it’s a mechanical/electrical issue, but don’t underestimate programming fails or it simply learning via your lead-foot moments in stop and go traffic and never adjusting back. In some cases it can actually be the reverse. As in they might keep resetting those tables every few weeks, expecting it to magically get them their missing MPGs from when they replaced their battery 6 months ago; never giving the computer enough time to re-learn more aggressively leaning(in both senses of the word) trim values.

                              The strategies are vehicle/manufacturer dependent, usually written in C, and often have issues, hence them having revisions to the PCM/ECU regarding this. Usually best to yank the battery cable, then clean as much as you can (TB, IAC, MAF/P, etc), let the computer get the most out of the initial readings efficiency wise.[/quote]

                              in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477087
                              LevinLevin
                              Participant

                                in reply to: MPG/Mileage gone to the dogs…but why #477482
                                LevinLevin
                                Participant

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