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WARNING!!! This is super long, it took me almost an hour to type…
So I gave you fair warning, but I’d love your input, thank you for reading….
So, it’s been almost 14 months now since my 2001 Toyota Camry 2.2 5S-FE started knocking…
It’s had a moderate oil leak for a few years now (very common in this engine),
I finally got sick of it leaking out (about 1 quart per 1,000 miles…I replaced the valve cover gasket with a FelPro gasket, I also did the spark plug rings as they were included in the kit…
I had yet another leak…
Well, turns out my main (second) leak was coming from the front main seal, or oil pump…
Ok, so I found this stuff called ATP-205 RE-SEAL…
It was even strongly recommended by a very popular YouTube mechanic…
Not Eric of course, I expect to get slapped for this too, dumb, dumb, dumb…
Oh well, at least I felt good for trying to fix it…So I have mainly used Castrol SynBlend 5-W30 in it… Sometimes GTX, but a long time ago…
I couldn’t find the SynBlend, so I got full Synthedic instead…
(Off Topic)
I also changed the plugs to Denso
iridium, and also a serpentine belt, the one for altimator and A/C that was shredding for quite a while tlx fix a squeak ,that didn’t work…(Back On Topic)
So I changed the oil to full Synthedic and when the Re-Seal came in, I poured a little in…
Now I did pay attention to the amounts, but it didn’t really do much… So after some leaked out, I added a little more…
So I had 3 1/2 quarts oil 1/2 quart Re-Seal…
A little more leaked out, so I think I put more Re-Seal in…
I got an frequent oil light, but the oil was still at the full line…
So I confined to drive it as normal…
BIG MISTAKE!!!
I put more Re-Seal in a few days later…
Drove it about a mile, and would hear a very light ticking when decelerating, or revving in fort gear… At first, I thought it could be a heat shield…
Anyway, to counteract the oil light, I poured 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of Synthedic in… So I was overfilled by 1/2 a quart…
This didn’t do much…
My events may be out of order because the was in late November to early December 2014…
So the ticking got worse and would bring to happen at lower RPMs…
Then, I noticed a slight loss in power…
The oil light would come on when the engine was revved hard i.e. KickDown…
Then it would stay on for the remainder of that drive…
I eventually changed the oil in Jsnuary, no more oil light, still ticking though…
With a steady, but barely noticeable decrease in power over the next few weeks, no oil light, not once…
(Off Topic – Well Kinda)
I put an eBay intake in it with the Kanuary oil change for more power, at that time I was was so sure it was valve train noise from low oil pressure…(Back On Tpoic)
So, March 13, 2015, it just started felling a little slower on the way home that night…
Next day, Saturday, March 14, 2015, it was just past noon by an hour at most… We were on the way to my sisters wedding, so I was in a Tux… We were all dressed up…
I move the Kia (2007 Sportage) out of the way, hop in the Camry, and we were off, but not for long…
I wasn’t driving but here’s the details…
The driver, she said in a joking way, “This things not going to get us there in a hurry”…
Ok, 30 seconds later… “Man, this thing has no power, it’s floored, and badly going”
About 20 seconds later, really lout squeaking/scuffing sound… Then, the KNOCK!!!
Fallowed by, “it’s about to kill”, rough idle, it smoothed out a bit, must have been metal shavings in the cylinder….
We were only about 1 1/2 miles from home so we knocked along at 5 MPH in a torque-less Camry…
Hopped in the Kia, and booked, Kia FTW, it saved the day…
Anyway…
My theory is, I took good advice, that had no, grain of salt kinda warning…
I had mixed it with Synthedic oil, wich wasn’t said to be ok or not…
I had way too much Re-Seal to oil ratio…
Re-Seal has the same viscosity of water…Re-Seal breaks up sludge… Not good for a nearly 14 year old, Toyota, without regular oil changes (in our ownership 6/6/06-current, especially after we got the Kia in late 2008, and stopped during the Camry) this engine is Prone to sludge which I saw in the valve cover and head, I cleaned a lot of the loose brittle up…
So, here’s my theory…
Oil too thin, pump couldn’t keep up, oil light… (That’s why it would come on at high revs, it would just drain right back into the pan)
Re-Seal breaks up sludge, clogging passages…
I don’t know if using Synthedic caused any problems, but it was in for a week before the Re-Seal, about 350 miles…
So, does this make sinse?
Oil couldn’t get pumped up from in oil pan because it was too thin…
Sludge broke loose and clogged passeges, both contributing to the tappet, then later knock…
After the January oil change, no oil light, but the damage was done…
March 14, the enevitable happened…
#4 Clyinder, knock, closest to passenger wheel… Fattest from tranny…
I could hear it best with a mechanics stethoscope in the nearest freeze-out plug…
I haven’t started it in one year, next week (around May 8)…
(Let Me Include)
It knocks but ideas strong, just nothing happens when the gas pedal is depressed, no torque…So, my question is, does this make since?
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With a 16 year old car having ? miles on it and mulitiple oil leaks it may just be that it’s worn out.
As for the YouTube mechanic you must be talking about Scotty Kilmer; one of if not the biggest hacks on the planet.
I didn’t want to name names and stir up drama..
Anyway, it was fine until I poured that in the engine…
It ran like new, September 20, 2014, 2 months prior when I hit 150,000…
It was 13 years 9 months old at the time…
Something happened suddenly…
It can make sense.
Bottom line, it died because of oil issues. Anytime there is ANY kind of “pour this in, and it’ll be fixed” you’re doing a hack job. It’s pretty much 98% fail rate even if it is “fixed” for a week or so. And now you have extra shit in your engine.
Scotty kilmer creeps me the hell out by the way.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I know, he just doesn’t provide enough information, he’s like, throw this in, and it’ll work…
That being said, I’d like to know exactly what happened… But I’d have to tear it down myself to find out…
That being said, it needs to be “Fixed Forward”, just kidding…
It died from oil starvation. That crap you put in caused the oil not to flow properly. Your first clue was the oil warning light you other clues were the lifters making noise and your final warning was the rod knock. What I don’t understand is why you didn’t have the proper repairs made in the first place? Why didn’t you change the oil when you realized you had thinned the oil out to much?
It might have been an expensive lesson but at least you learned there is no such thing as a mechanic in a can.
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