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USING A WEIGHT OF 10X30 WILL I GET BETTER LUBRICATION AND LONGER ENGINE LIFE BY USING VALVOLINE OR QUAKER STATE OR THE NEWER MOBILE 5000 ALL OF THESE ARE CONVENTIONAL OILS ?
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Use the viscosity required for your vehicle.
Also check out this site – http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
Personally I like castrol and mobil. I use conventional high mileage castrol for my civic. I have used mobil 0w-30 synthetic before and noticed an increase in fuel economy, but it is quite expensive and the increase in fuel economy didn’t justify the price now a days. Although I hear it provides excellent protection.
There would probably be little to no life expectancy change between most BRAND NAME conventional oils, they are very good these days. Especially favorites by most oil gurus is Pennzoil in the Yellow Bottle(aka PYB). Good shot a molybdenum and boron, good amount of calcium and starting Total Base Number(aka TBN); which is needed to neutralize the acidity build up which happens as a by-product of operation(combustion, contaminants etc).
On the other hand, you ‘may'(some vehicle that require a better lube or simply perform that smaller percentage better) have longer engine life with a high-end synthetic. TBN retention, retention to shearing and HTHS (high temp high shearing) numbers and the overall formulation can be likened to cheap insurance to give your car a bit more ‘head room’ to work with(it is compared to gas and actual car insurance expense anyway)
Still, to prove one way or another you would have to measure wear patterns, clearances etc from the same engine driven in AS CLOSE to the same real world environment as possible; one serviced with a high-quality synthetic and the other a high-quality conventional, to really get a good idea.
Your car will probably not know the difference.
On the other hand, synthetic ‘can'(stressing the dependency being relative to your vehicle/operating conditions/current engine conditions as of today) allow for extended Oil Change Intervals(less servicing). Generally speaking, synthetics have proven to last longer and newer cars have longer intervals; many having calibrated Oil Life Monitoring systems to have advanced algorithms based on how the car is driven and operating conditions. This is all based on the use of conventional oil. Some vehicles can go longer on synthetic. This is generally needed to be verified by use of used fluid analysis(generally $20-$50 or so).
Lastly, too frequent oil changes has shown to increase wear. Why? Because Virgin oil introduced into your engine has 2 prior additive components: Anti-wear and dispersant/detergent additive packages.
Once ‘fresh’ oil is introduced into an engine, ‘first’ the fresh cleansing part of the add pack goes to work on the ‘left overs’ from the last oil used. It ‘disperses’ gathered particles and is generally attempt to cleanse so ‘wins’ the surface affinity battle initially after an oil change. During this phase, the engine will have a small blip in wear metals(not anything serious of course), but it does occur anywhere from the first few hundred to up to 1,000 miles or so into a new OCI.
As that process comes to an end(the initial cleansing calms down) the anti-wear properties start to take over the ‘surface affinity (basically meaning the predominant relationship between lubricant and metal). So, too frequent oil changes introduce a time of cleansing(which is a good thing) at the sacrifice of increased wear. Again, not severe but actually taking place.
It’s sort of like the old sales pitch about ‘99% of wear occurs at startup’ etc. Okay, startup from an oil change or because of a leaking Anti-drain back valve? ADBV and a synthetic will help with better oil flow at startup and in extreme cold.
So, as you can guess, longer oil change intervals on synthetic( that are NOT being driven too many miles or in extreme service conditions such as 1-2 mile trips in sub-32 degrees) can be left in longer so you get more miles, a ‘still clean’ engine, and less initial wear from overly frequent oil changes.
Indeed, No need to yell. But is there a reason why you are dead set on Regular Oil? Why not Synthetic?
I would say no you won’t get better anything using the above mentioned oils.all are decent oils.I personally use Mobil one synthetic.I would vote for the
mobil one.I don’t know what your driving but 10w-30 sounds heavy.use what the manual calls for good luck.i have 4 hondas that i have to care for…mine, the wife, the 2 daughters.. all or over 120k and we all have similar engines thank god.. but i have a lot of success with castrol gtx high mileage in the dark green bottle.. that shit works and lasts a good time, good example, i changed my oil and drove back and forth over 1200 miles in 3 wks and when i changed it again 2 months later .. the color was slightly darker but not much from when i first poured it in…i wont use anything else, maybe in a pinch, i will use valvoline high mileage but that doesnt hold up the same…close but not too close
^This is wrong. You can’t tell much definitively about how well an oil is holding up by how dark or not it is.
One oil may have superior cleansing ability, and will keep the crud/deposits/combustion contaminants in a ‘suspended’ state, thus the oil will look darker. While another may not clean very well and appear ‘cleaner’ longer, but that does not give you an indication of the condition of your engine.
That being said, most of the brand namer oils; Amsoil/Castrol/Mobil1/Pennzoil/RoyalPurple/Valvoline etc, are all superb generally speaking.
amsoil is my favorite but it sure is spendy, heres my list.
1:amsoil I
2:mobile1 all synthetic
3:royal purple I
4:lucas oil Ito me, everything thats not synthetic seems the same.
I agree with dreamer2355. bobistheoilguy.com is a forum all about motor oil. Out of the three choices you’ve provided, I’d choose Valvoline.
Ive tried Various Synthetic Oil, All are good untill they reach the 3K mark. Oil start to deteriorate thus engine being less quieter and harder to accelerate.
Here are some oils that i tried and how far it can go before it performs less(performance wise, not sure about protection).(1) AMSOIL – 10K {0w-30 Signature Series, can run up to 15K or 1 year}. @ 10K its still quieter and accelerates better than other oil at 3K. – My fave
(2) ENEOS – 4K {Super quiet. Smooth and fast acceleration on stop and passing on the freeway, also on hill climbs. FOR PERFORMANCE} – My 2nd Fave
(3) ROYAL PURPLE – 3K (quiet than and better performance than others below this line}
(4) Mobil 1 – 3K (same as other oil i tried)
(5) Castrol – 3K (same as other oil i tried)I have not tried Penzoil,Quake etc….
This is just an input on personal experience.
Don’t ever mix synthetic oil with convential oil and I have seen what it does.Basically they are not compadable and turns to sludge.A couple of my father’s friends,brothers did this and my father warned them not to do it.Pulled the pan out of a 2000ish Pontiac Bonneville,pan was completely full of sludge and luckily did not burn the engine up.Always use the recomended oil that is used and there are engines this way.One is the 5.7 hemi in the Chysler 300s,Dodge Magnums and Charger.Has a MDS system using 5w 20 oil only,the MDS system will not work right if 5w 20 oil is not used gumming up the acuators for the MDS system
^That is completely untrue.
Oils can be mixed together as long as they are of the same PCMO or diesel type. The sludge was present before use of that blend and it is simply a coincidence the sludge happened to be there ‘still’ after the fact.
Bad maintenance practice leads to sludge, not mixing fluids or even choosing one oil over another. Did you even bother to find out the previous maintenance history of said vehicle? Completely irresponsible to blame the blending of two oils.
I guess ‘synthetic blends’ out there are sludging up vehicles left and right? W;)
Please, go educate yourself on BITOG. Google it.
Quoted From hbvx:
^That is completely untrue.
Oils can be mixed together as long as they are of the same PCMO or diesel type. The sludge was present before use of that blend and it is simply a coincidence the sludge happened to be there ‘still’ after the fact.
Bad maintenance practice leads to sludge, not mixing fluids or even choosing one oil over another. Did you even bother to find out the previous maintenance history of said vehicle? Completely irresponsible to blame the blending of two oils.
I guess ‘synthetic blends’ out there are sludging up vehicles left and right? W;)
Please, go educate yourself on BITOG. Google it.
I actually posted that link on this thread.
I love that site and its ridiculously educational! The things i have learned since being a member there is like night and day.
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