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2000 legacy, wore the drivers seat out. Bought one with less 1/3 the mileage from ebay but it’s power and mine is manual. Someone told me I could switch tracks but it isn’t true. Someone else told me the power would be there under the seat and that’s not true either. So where do I tap the power and what size fuse do I put in the line? Thanks!
I’ve read there is no fuse for the power seat. I’ve also read that it uses so much power I can’t tap the seat heater plug in that is there even though I don’t have heated seats because it will overload the power. In other words, I’m not getting a straight answer.
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Oh man, I finally had time to pull the seats again. Someone told me that black plug was seat heater. BS, it’s a power seat cable. I don’t know whether to be happy or annoyed, I paid $10 for the pig tail with shipping and made my own harness and the car already has a power seat harness. LOL. I guess it’s easier than wiring up my own. I had sent the guy a picture of the harness under the seat and I guess he didn’t know what it was so he made something up. 2000-2001 legacy, black plug under the seat white wire green stripe power seat plug.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98305]Does this mean you have working seats now?[/quote]
Yes and no. The passengers side had a broken track so I had to swap my track out, no problem it’s in. Power didn’t work to the factory harness on the drivers side so I hooked up my makeshift harness, attached it to the battery out the door and set the seat where i wanted and bolted it down. I still need to trace the harness and see why there is no power. I just don’t have time for a few days. If I can’t find it easily, I’m going to run my own to the battery with an inline 30 amp fuse. I know exactly where to put it through the firewall and the harness is made. So it shouldn’t take long and at least the motors on the seat work.
In other news, I did the passengers side tie rods and measured the total length of the old tie rods and at the alignment today, the drivers side was off slightly more than the passengers side. Toe was only off .05 degrees out of spec. That’s really close for just measuring and using whiteout. I had to replace the inner and outer so counting turns was completely out. Plus the new ones were Moog and the old ones OEM, made differently.
Honda needs front sway bar bushings. Got the moog kit because it’s cheaper. Doing the frame bushings too. They are 20 years old, it’s time.
You weren’t kidding about it being a PITA. I took the console out and the last I followed the wire that supposedly ties in at the drivers side power window circuit, it ran over the trans tunnel and was headed forward on the other side of the trans tunnel toward the front of the car. No way was I going to pull the passengers seat and the carpet on that side. I said screw it and ran my own harness to the battery, ground at the seat bolt. I put a 30amp inline fuse in the power line. Took me awhile, console, drivers side carpet, there was a rubber plug in the firewall and I went along the edge of the console zip tied to another cable then through a small hole I drilled in the plug. Used solar seal 900 to seal the hole. The only good news is I got to clean the console parts before I put them back together, nasty. And there were about 25 pens in the console. I had no idea. And a pencil under the console on top of the trans tunnel.
Yea, you find stuff when you start taking things apart in the interior.
So do you have a working seat now?
Yes, I do have a working power seat now. And it’s a whole lot better than what I had before. Thanks again!
Well done. Sounds like it was hard won. That said, those are often the most rewarding.
Thanks for the updates and for using the ETCG forum.
Still going good. Would a direct link to the battery suck battery power with the seat not being adjusted? Just seems like I am losing some battery power somewhere and that’s the only thing I’ve changed. If not, maybe I need to test the alternator. Because after a drive it a few days, it takes four hours on the trickle charger to bring it back. The battery is new. Other car, takes 25 minutes to top off even after sitting a couple days.
It might be what you’re tied into. If there’s a blank spot in the fuse box that is ignition hot, I would go with that. I’d also use an inline fuse with that set up. I would not go straight to the battery as that could cause a drain at some point.
As for the other issue, you might want to check the battery and charging system. More info on that here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
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