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2000 legacy, wore the drivers seat out. Bought one with less 1/3 the mileage from ebay but it’s power and mine is manual. Someone told me I could switch tracks but it isn’t true. Someone else told me the power would be there under the seat and that’s not true either. So where do I tap the power and what size fuse do I put in the line? Thanks!
I’ve read there is no fuse for the power seat. I’ve also read that it uses so much power I can’t tap the seat heater plug in that is there even though I don’t have heated seats because it will overload the power. In other words, I’m not getting a straight answer.
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[quote=”clearanceman” post=96402]2000 legacy, wore the drivers seat out. Bought one with less 1/3 the mileage from ebay but it’s power and mine is manual. Someone told me I could switch tracks but it isn’t true. Someone else told me the power would be there under the seat and that’s not true either. So where do I tap the power and what size fuse do I put in the line? Thanks!
I’ve read there is no fuse for the power seat. I’ve also read that it uses so much power I can’t tap the seat heater plug in that is there even though I don’t have heated seats because it will overload the power. In other words, I’m not getting a straight answer.[/quote]
Two choices here. Either send the seat back and find a manual one or
have the manual one recovered. Otherwise you would need to run a wire
from the battery into the cab to power the seat. You would need to know
the amp draw of the power seat motor to determine wire size and fuse size.
possible 10 gauge and 20-30 amp?Thanks, it’s not going back, it has to go to CA and that’s not an option. Also, it’s in way better shape than my seat and it matches my bolt pattern, it’s here to stay. No problem on the wire and fuse. Anyone know for sure 20-30 amp? It’s strange, the wiring to the seat motors is not very thick, not close to 10 guage. It’s not any thicker than the wires to the seat heater. I don’t think the motors draw very much, they are tiny.
Someone else told me I could tap into the drivers side power window circuit which has a 30 amp fuse. Agree, disagree? Not sure where to tap in if that’s an option. Need a wiring diagram.
[quote=”clearanceman” post=96442]Thanks, it’s not going back, it has to go to CA and that’s not an option. Also, it’s in way better shape than my seat and it matches my bolt pattern, it’s here to stay. No problem on the wire and fuse. Anyone know for sure 20-30 amp? It’s strange, the wiring to the seat motors is not very thick, not close to 10 guage. It’s not any thicker than the wires to the seat heater. I don’t think the motors draw very much, they are tiny.
Someone else told me I could tap into the drivers side power window circuit which has a 30 amp fuse. Agree, disagree? Not sure where to tap in if that’s an option. Need a wiring diagram.[/quote]
Take a look at the motor and see if it has an amp rating on it.
If it does I can give a more accurate answer. Here is another option.
What if you install the seat. Put 12volts to it from the battery. move
the seat where its good for you and leave it there. How often are you
going to move the seat? Don’t jump power from other sources.Wife drives the car sometimes, won’t work although I did think of that. There are actually two small motors. I guess I need a wiring diagram. I’ll try to get the amps too. Thanks!
I’ll update what I have found. Stock legacy L taps the power seat into the power window circuit, 30 amp fuse. That’s what I’m going to do too. The reality is it would be extremely unlikely for someone to use the drivers power window at the same time as the drivers power seat. You would have to use your left hand for the seat and at the same time you reached down for the seat controls, use your right hand to work the left power window switches. Isn’t going to happen. But it does sound like you can probably blow a fuse in a 2000-2001 legacy with power seats by moving the drivers power seat while using the drivers power window.
Look at this, even if it doesn’t fit the stock seat connector it has both sides and it handles up to 40 amps. I ordered one, now I don’t have to look for a stock wiring harness, I can make my own.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271477401311?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Couldn’t find anything like this locally.
Instead of trying to make the power seat work in your vehicle, why not just remove the cousins and fabric form the new seat and transfer it to your old seat? I think that would be a much easier option.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=96694]Instead of trying to make the power seat work in your vehicle, why not just remove the cousins and fabric form the new seat and transfer it to your old seat? I think that would be a much easier option.[/quote]
1. I don’t know how. And my seat is a rusted sagging pile of poo. 260,000 miles.
2. It might be nice to have power recline and I think maybe power height adjust.
It’s not that difficult and you can swap out the old parts. Likely the only difference between the 2 seats is the base assembly with the motors. The only tool I think you’ll need is a set of hog ring pliers. I’ve been wanting to do a video on this for some time but haven’t found a vehicle to do it with. Honestly, I think you’re in for more trouble than it’s worth with this conversion. They usually run a different interior harness for things like that. Since you don’t have one, you’ll have to improvise. That can lead to burning up other circuits in the vehicle if you’re not careful.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Thought about the connector I showed at the seat, 10 gauge wire, good ground and tap here
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/90220402/00legacysplice.png
8 feet of 10 gauge wire was $5.60 at advance auto. That connector is cheap and the male one may even fit the stock connector on the seat, they look very close. I have been told that Subaru taps the power window supply stock on these cars. It’s got a 30amp fuse. I think I can make my own harness, it’s really just the power wire, grounds are everywhere, I just need to run a wire to the seat bolt.
I just have no confidence in making the swap, I don’t have those hog ring pliers and zero experience doing upholstery. I’m afraid I’m going to end up tearing something or not getting it right. And then I got to start all over again. I’d rather do electrical than upholstery.
The bottom of the seat looks brand new where as mine looks like it’s been in a lake for a few days. But if the motors don’t end up working, maybe I’ll give it a try.
If I lived near you, you could make the swap for your video if you wanted to. I can see it now. “We start with this beat up, flattened old seat and we’ll swap the upholstery from this old but in much better condition seat.”
Seller of the seat sold me the pigtail connector from the power harness. So if the generic connector doesn’t match up, this one will and make it easier to make my harness if I can finish the Honda and get started.
Thought I already replied but it’s not here. I made the wiring harness today and found where to tap in. I hope to finish everything Saturday or Monday. I don’t have time before then to do anything else but all I need to do is remove the seats, pull back the carpet on the drivers side and hook up the harness then install the seats.
The wire I need to tap is right under the dash. It helped that it is the same color as the wiring on the seat plug pigtail (white wire, green stripe). Made me feel better that what I was told about the cars with electric seats taping in at the power window circuit was correct. There are no other white wires with green stripes anywhere under the dash in that area.
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