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My IACV is going bad on my 94 Accord EX. I have taken it off, replaced the o-rings with Honda ones, and cleaned it with carb clean spraying the screen and valve sides. Looking into buying a new one and they are so ridiculously spendy. I actually payed less for my Mishimoto radiator and hoses then I would for a new FITV. Any suggestions? Knew this would be the place to ask. Thanks!
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“I never had any issues until I did my 5spd conversion.” This is all I needed. The automatic and the manual trans idle are handled differently. With a manual you don’t need to idle up when you put it into gear, with an automatic you do. The IAC is not your problem, it’s your conversion. I suspect you’re going to need to get a computer out of a manual trans car in order for the issue to go away. People ask me about doing manual trans conversions all the time and I tell them it’s more complicated than they think. THIS is one of the reasons why I say this.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=48869]”I never had any issues until I did my 5spd conversion.” This is all I needed. The automatic and the manual trans idle are handled differently. With a manual you don’t need to idle up when you put it into gear, with an automatic you do. The IAC is not your problem, it’s your conversion. I suspect you’re going to need to get a computer out of a manual trans car in order for the issue to go away. People ask me about doing manual trans conversions all the time and I tell them it’s more complicated than they think. THIS is one of the reasons why I say this.[/quote]
I have a P0A 5spd ECU from a 1994 CD7, which is exactly what I have. I did everything correctly, I also took my time. So that option can be ruled out. 😛
Here is the actual build thread.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3111548Ok so today I hit up the local yard and found an IACV bolted it up with NO result. But when I unplug it the idle stabilizes… Ideas? I have a new IM gasket, Plenum gasket, and TB gasket, one vacuum hose in entirety (Fuel reg), I replaced the booster and PCV hoses and bought a new PCV. I’m starting to wonder if there is a damaged wire somewhere, or there is a glitch in my ECU. :angry: :angry: :angry:
Honda’s don’t like aftermarket PCV’s and I don’t recommend replacing them unless they come apart internally. I mentioned this in the article I posted a link to a while back. I would suggest you reread the article as much of what you’re experiencing is covered there. There are SEVERAL suggestions on what to look for and how to deal with a hunting idle on a Honda.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=50129]Honda’s don’t like aftermarket PCV’s and I don’t recommend replacing them unless they come apart internally. I mentioned this in the article I posted a link to a while back. I would suggest you reread the article as much of what you’re experiencing is covered there. There are SEVERAL suggestions on what to look for and how to deal with a hunting idle on a Honda.
I’ve read that thread, I have also watched the video, all informative but none of the steps have worked. I’m completely baffled. My coolant system is bled completely and does not leak. I replaced the TB and plenum gasket (which was only $5 so I thought might as well). I also got a perfectly working OE PCV from the junkyard. I blocked off EVERY vacuum line and replaced the air temperature sensor O-Ring..
I asked my best friends dad, who is an ASE Cert. Honda master tech at brookdale Honda here in MN and he said it was an air leak. It obviously isn’t considering I’ve checked, and double checked every opening in the entirety of the plenum.
Then I went and replaced the IACV with a junkyard one for $6, which was also not a loss because I needed one for my F23 IM retrofit anyways. That also did not work. I don’t throw money at things, that’s is in no way efficient and its against all that I believe in as someone who enjoys repairing anything mechanical.
Have you or anyone else attempted to adjust the idle with the screw on the throttle body? If so, this could be the cause. That was covered in the article. If base idle is not correct it can allow too much air into the system thus creating the problem you have. I believe you have a vacuum leak or something is not adjusted correctly. Your salvage yard parts are also suspect but considering they made no change I think we can rule them out for now. To me it sounds like you’re getting too much air from somewhere. I just thought of something else. If when you removed the throttle body you didn’t adjust the throttle cable correctly it can hold the throttle open thus causing too much air to enter.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=51461]Have you or anyone else attempted to adjust the idle with the screw on the throttle body? If so, this could be the cause. That was covered in the article. If base idle is not correct it can allow too much air into the system thus creating the problem you have. I believe you have a vacuum leak or something is not adjusted correctly. Your salvage yard parts are also suspect but considering they made no change I think we can rule them out for now. To me it sounds like you’re getting too much air from somewhere. I just thought of something else. If when you removed the throttle body you didn’t adjust the throttle cable correctly it can hold the throttle open thus causing too much air to enter.[/quote]
Yes I have adjusted the base idle screw ontop of the TB, although the purging idle was still occurring before I did any adjustment what so ever. Brought the car to complete “fan engagement” temperatur, I unplugged the IACV, backed the idle screw completely out, removed all of the old silicone that was on the screw (of course shutting the car off while doing this step), reapplied new silicone, and adjusted the screw an 8th of a turn at a time until the idle stayed constant at 750 rpm (+- 20/30rpm). After doing so the idle still purged, the throttle cable is also adjusted correctly with a perfect amount of slack (as per your $0.00 performance upgrade video).
When you adjust the idle screw you move everything out of whack and it makes it very difficult to find the actual problem. I’m also VERY concerned when you say you used silicone on the screw. If you used RTV here this is a HUGE no no and it should be removed and cleaned as it could clog up the idle passage not allowing it to be adjusted properly. There was no silicone there to begin with. There is a sealer placed on the outside of the screw to prevent tampering at the factory, not silicone or RTV. I’ve done a huge write up on this problem covering many things to check and adjust for a hunting idle on a Honda. Please read through them and perform any necessary steps to address the problem.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=52899]When you adjust the idle screw you move everything out of whack and it makes it very difficult to find the actual problem. I’m also VERY concerned when you say you used silicone on the screw. If you used RTV here this is a HUGE no no and it should be removed and cleaned as it could clog up the idle passage not allowing it to be adjusted properly. There was no silicone there to begin with. There is a sealer placed on the outside of the screw to prevent tampering at the factory, not silicone or RTV. I’ve done a huge write up on this problem covering many things to check and adjust for a hunting idle on a Honda. Please read through them and perform any necessary steps to address the problem.
Ok I should have stated that differently. I applied silicone to the OUTSIDE of the screw, identical to how Honda had the sealant applied previously. The idle issue was just as horrible before I attempted to adjust the base idle as it was after. I actually saw no effect adjusting it after.
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