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Chevy Prizm = Toyota Corrolla. If you think oil sludge might be a concern you could try Auto RX system. I haven’t used it but some people swear by it. If you want something that is less aggressive you could try LC20 made by Lube Control – it supposedly dissolves carbon deposits slowly. I think it’s pretty good stuff.
Penzoil conventional oil (yellow bottle) has alot of detergents which is what alot of people use and swear by for neglected engines on this site –
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
The problem with using flushes is that you can clog the oil pick up screen.
I would pull the valve cover off and see how bad it is if indeed that is the case.
Also, did you make sure your PCV system is working correctly?
Are you using the correct grade of oil and a good brand oil?
Keep us posted.
Thanks for your replies. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to pull the valve covers and have a look.
There is a ton of info over in the forum that you put a link to, thanks dreamer. Just need to figure out what to try now. Kreen does seem popular and I notice that a lot of other posters recommend Pennzoil Ultra too.
I actually haven’t found the PCV Valve yet, but I’ll get back to it this weekend and will track it down.
We changed the oil right after we first got it, what we actually used escapes me right now, but it what was recommended, a 5w 30 oil. I know that we bought it at an Advanced Auto Parts store and it was a 5 quart jug. Seems like it was a green container.
I guess doing a cleaning job would be easier and cheaper than a complete tear down. What harm will it do?
Thanks again, chevyman.
There is a poster over on BITOG that did a lot of work on a sludged 98 Toyota, IIRC. Therefore, for starters pulling a valve cover is a must, IMO.
I don’t think in this case ‘snake oil’ would be out of the question, if there is an issue with the oil return holes in the pistons it would involve disassembling the entire engine and putting it all back together, this would be labor intensive as you know but it also may not be effective and for that reason I would suggest if you conclude that it is indeed the return holes that are at issue that you consider replacing the engine with a salvage unit or rebuilt if you’re looking for a lasting repair. If you’re just looking to get by then tear it down, fix the return holes and perhaps replace the valve seals while you’re at it for good measure. Before all that however perhaps something you put in the oil designed to deal with a problem just like this, you have little to loose at this point if you think about it.
Yes, I think an attempt to clean this thing out first is good step. I’ll find the PCV and check that out to see if it;s sticking or something.
There was another poster that I read about on the Toyota Nation website, his username was “Bennie” and he did just that, pulled his Toyota (Prizm) engine down and cleaned it up, but he also drilled more relief holes in the piston groove too. I guess it worked out really well for him. I think he’s done a couple of these.
I’ll post a link to the site: http://www.toyotanation.com
You can read as much as you want, there’s a ton of info. there.
chevyman
Sorry guys, the link didn’t work I guess. The name of the title is: Solution to oil disappearing in a 1ZZFE engine.
Bennie’s pics and info begin at page 17. Read as much or as little as you want or need to.
chevyman
I think the PCV valve in that engine is just a semi-large vacuum line running to the top of the valve cover with a small valve attached to it. Very straight forward. That’s what it is on my 1.6 Prizm at least. I haven’t noticed any difference between the two engines other than the displacement. They were both Toyota motors. But yeh, you may want to try some Seafoam or whatever, see how that does ya.
Also, just for you, because you bought a version of my favorite car, I went out in the dark with a flashlight and took a pic of the valve, and tried to put an arrow on it with paintshop. But I’m a rehtard with computers, so I dunno how well you will see what I was trying to do:
Meh, you can kind of see the arrow, but the valve is right in the middle of the pic, directly above the flashlight spot. Should be the same on the 1.8 if I remember right. The part number is the same. Anyways, good luck bud.
Well thanks a lot Beefy, I wasn’t expecting that. I appreciate the effort. I do see where the valve is in the photo, hopefully this 1.8 will be the same.
I plan on taking a look at the PCV valve tomorrow as I did have to work today.
Marvel Mystery Oil works really well for breaking that [CENSORED] down and flushing it from the system slowly. Whenever I notice my oil getting black before i get a chance to change the oil I will top off the oil with Marvel and drive it for a few days. Then right before I change the oil I dump more in the motor and let it run for a few minutes to wash all the crud down. I have been doing this for years and have never had an issue with the pickup screen getting plugged or anything but I never had an engine get that dirty either. All I know for sure is that Marvel Mystery Oil and Sea Foam are the only 2 that say it is safe to leave in the motor for extended periods of time that I have used and the Marvel oil is a whole lot cheaper. Since you are going to drain it right back out there is no sense spending more than you have to. Good luck and I hope this helps.
Well I finally did get a look at the PCV valve today and it seems fine to me, it is still moving inside and not stuck anyways.
I plan to remove a quart of oil tomorrow and add a quart of Marvel Mystery oil because he is headed to my daughter’s house, which is around 150 miles away
and this should give this a chance to circulate for a while to begin a cleaning on this engine.I’d like to post a photo of this PCV valve’s location, but I can’t seem to pull it off right now. I’ll try again later.
chevyman
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