When I had rear drive cars I ran tire chains.
What I found most convenient was having an extra set of wheels with tires with chains already mounted. The thing is you can’t run chains on anything but snow. On dry pavement they are quickly ruined. With chains already mounted on wheels, when I woke to the ground covered with snow, I simply swapped two tires and went to work – usually to find nobody else there.
As for what speed you can run, the top speed possible is where the chains started hitting the vehicle due to centrifugal force. So, you want to get the chains on as tight as possible. Still, on my car back then, that was thirty mph. In other words, no freeway driving. Cars nowadays are designed with wheel wells that are often very close to the tires. It is just the current style but may make the use of chains impossible depending on the vehicle.
Chains on four wheels of course work better than on two. On my rear drive vehicle traction was outstanding but steering was iffy with chains only on the back.
Also, you need to live close to work or any destination. Chains are emergency snow equipment designed for short distances. If you have a 50 mile commute, forget using chains.
There is also cable chains. I’ve used them too. In fact I’d recommend them over regular chains. They are easier to install, provide less but still decent traction and wear about the same. Because they are lighter faster speeds are possible.
If you don’t like the idea of buying spare wheels and tires, chains are still a good item to have in the trunk (with a good jack). They can get you unstuck when nothing else short of a tow truck could using tires alone. My wife coming home one night dropped one side of her car through a very flooded street gutter that had frozen over. The car was down to the axle through the ice. I got into that water, got soaked but installed chains and drove out.
My wife and I made it through many a bad winter driving two Firebirds, normally considered three season vehicles, by running chains.