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Most wheel studs are removed by using a hammer.
We also have a free link to Chilton’s online in the ‘How To’ section that also may explain the procedure although it should be very easy to figure out.
Once you have the parts removed, and the hub is exposed (caliper/rotor etc out of the way) you should be able to turn the hub and align the studs one at a time to a gap in the hub assembly, and drive them out one at a time with a BFH. Beware, to pull them back in, you will most likely need an impact wrench to pull them back into the hub. Use an open lug nut and something as a spacer, or a very deep impact socket.
It’s not too hard. You can get it done in about 6-10 minutes. Make sure the caliper is tied up and secure. Don’t let it drop when you hammer and don’t hit the rotor. Not good. Here you go, read post number 4.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2513239On some years of the acura there is no ” slot or cut out ” in which to knock the wheel stud out. because of this clearance issue ( the space between the hub flange and the knuckle ) you have to remove the hub from the knuckle/wheel bearing in order to remove and replace a wheel stud. there is a trick you can try that is used for this same situation on some hondas ( 89 civic for example ) first- have your new wheel stud on hand , next – cut the old/damaged wheel stud off as close to the hub flange as possible- you will be cutting off the threaded end ( do this before knocking the old stud loose ) next- using a sturdy punch and hammer knock the remaining part of the stud out. next- take the new stud and feed it into the hole in the flange- you will see that it won’t go all the way through as it hits the knuckle- here you will have to eyeball the clearance , you then what to look at the head of the stud ( the round end ) you can grind off some of the head creating a flat spot on the side of the head ( take your time – just remove a little then try to install , repeat grinding if needed ) again the clearance factor will determine if this trick will work for you or not. it is worth a try as pulling the hub is time consuming . don’t worry about weakening the wheel stud with this trick. done this before ( 89 civic – no problem- my own car by the way ).
Quoted From 619DioFan:
On some years of the acura there is no ” slot or cut out ” in which to knock the wheel stud out. because of this clearance issue ( the space between the hub flange and the knuckle ) you have to remove the hub from the knuckle/wheel bearing in order to remove and replace a wheel stud. there is a trick you can try that is used for this same situation on some hondas ( 89 civic for example ) first- have your new wheel stud on hand , next – cut the old/damaged wheel stud off as close to the hub flange as possible- you will be cutting off the threaded end ( do this before knocking the old stud loose ) next- using a sturdy punch and hammer knock the remaining part of the stud out. next- take the new stud and feed it into the hole in the flange- you will see that it won’t go all the way through as it hits the knuckle- here you will have to eyeball the clearance , you then what to look at the head of the stud ( the round end ) you can grind off some of the head creating a flat spot on the side of the head ( take your time – just remove a little then try to install , repeat grinding if needed ) again the clearance factor will determine if this trick will work for you or not. it is worth a try as pulling the hub is time consuming . don’t worry about weakening the wheel stud with this trick. done this before ( 89 civic – no problem- my own car by the way ).
Oh wow. I guess now you would have to do it the hard way. Good luck.
I probably will have to go the hard way seeing I don’t have access to a grinder, Thanks for all your help.
if you have an air chisel with a pointed bit you can drive them out. not necessary but sweet tool. good luck and keep us posted. C8-)
My car is an Acura Integra LS 4 door sedan, B18B1 Non VTEC, Auto. There doesn’t seem to be any groove slot or any thing like that to line the stud with. And I know About the BFH.
Quoted From cupdegrove:
Is there any trick to getting the hub flange and the knuckle off?
To remove the hub from the knuckle/bearing you will need a few things – 32mm socket for the axle nut , new axle nut ( recommended ) bearing grease ( high temp ) slide hammer with hub puller attachment. with wheel attached and car on ground ( hub cap/center cap off so axle nut is exposed ) break loose the nut. jack car and pull tire. remove brake caliper , remove rotor , remove axle nut , attach slide hammer to wheel studs and slide hammer the hub out of the bearing. replace the wheel stud , put a good coating of bearing grease on the hub shaft and the outer bearing race that will be stuck to the shaft. slide the hub into the bearing as carefully as possible tap it in with a hammer until you have enough of the axle threads showing, put the axle nut on and use it to pull / seat the hub into the bearing. this method does end up removing the outer bearing race ( opening up the bearing ) this can sometimes lead to premature bearing failure. you can also remove th entire knuckle and take it to a machine shop to have them press out the hub but the race will still come out and you may then need to have the car aligned after reinstalling the knuckle. I would try the trick I mentioned ( you can get a cheap 4″ grinder from harbor freight for taking down the stud head ) first. if you post a pict of the space between the hub flange and dust shield it will help to know how much clearance there is.
I’ve ground plenty of new studs to install them in the past with no reported problems, you just need a bench grinder or equivalent to grind enough of it off to insert it into the back of the hub. The issue I have with removing the hub is that most likely you’re going to kill the bearing in the process so if you decide to go that rout then I would recommend you also replace the bearing.
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