wheel does not turn after hub/bearing/rotor change

[Goldie]

I just discovered ETCG, I really like the way the videos are done and i think they will help me keep my nearly 20 year old car on the road. I like that Eric has Acura experience. MY car is a 96 RL

I tried searching but couldn’t find anything about this issue…it may just be my newbieness on my part that i couldn’t find anything…but i have found other forums sites commonly can be tricky to search.

So anyway…
I just replaced the Rear Wheel bearing and hub and rotor and pads on my 96 Acura RL as i was putting those extra two screws that you don’t need back in the rotor as Eric does in his videos i noticed that if I tighten them as tight as i could by hand that the rotor would not turn so i left them kind of loose. Then i put the wheels on and they don’t turn! I torqued everything to spec…axle nut 181 ft/lb and lugs to 80 ft/lb.

What could be wrong!?
Based on what i found above it seems to me to be some with faces touching…by faces i mean surfaces that are parallel with the side of the car. I also saw somewhere that maybe something needed to be done with parking break but i did not touch it as Eric did not in his video on the exact same vehicle.

I am thinking of putting 5 washers behind the rotor lug nut holes to bump it out a notch but not sure if this would fix it or more importantly cause other issues?

Topic

[dreamer2355]

Are you trying to say that the wheel will not spin?

I would make sure the rotor is the correct one for your vehicle. Did you match it up to your old one before install?

Do you have the same issue if you install your old rotor?

And no you do not really need to secure the rotor by those screws.

My next question is did you kink the flexible brake hose for the caliper? Did you install the pads correctly?

[college man]

If you remove the rotor does the hub spin free?
did you line up the rotor correctly? is this the
hub and bearing assembly?

[Goldie]

Are you trying to say that the wheel will not spin? YES

I would make sure the rotor is the correct one for your vehicle. Did you match it up to your old one before install? It lines up, I measured old vs new and compared to specs only difference is there is a 2nd lip on the inside that is not present on the old rotor, that may be be snugging against parking break guts

Do you have the same issue if you install your old rotor? [b]nope
[/b]
And no you do not really need to secure the rotor by those screws. I know but it seemed to help align the rotor centrically otherwise i got rub against the parking break pads

My next question is did you kink the flexible brake hose for the caliper? Did you install the pads correctly? All i did for the pads(in terms of fluid) was I popped the cap off the Master before i compressed the caliper cylinder enough to get it open enough to accept the new width. I plan to do a full 4 wheel fluid flush after i get the car road worthy…other rear wheel needs a bearing in a bad way and i am drilling out a lug nut that a belle tire guy spun but that’s another story.

Update: I put 5 identical washers on the studs between the bearing hub and rotor and now the wheel spins freely.

So my questions are now if this will cause any other issues?…there is a air gap now where the components would normally be flush together

[Goldie]

If you remove the rotor does the hub spin free? YES
did you line up the rotor correctly? YES
is this the hub and bearing assembly? The hub and bearing spin fine, that is until the rotor is put on
[i]
I actually got it to work by putting washers between the hub and rotor but i wonder if this will cause other issues[/i]

[Bill]

If the park brake is actuated by the caliper you will need to remove the calipers and push/screw the pistons in I couple of turns. This should cure your problem.

[Goldie]

Oh sorry I forgot to mention, the parking brake is the completely separate from the caliper system type… with big shoes that push on the inside of disc rotor (kind of)bell shape and here is an illustration to better illustrate WTH I am talking about. almost done getting the other side off so i will compare and try all combos of parts…i bought 2 bearings both sold as “SKF – private label” both came in NAPA boxs, one of the 2 was unmarked made in China, the other was a NTN…which is true Honda OE(NTN is Honda’s “child” bearing company like Toyota’s is Koyo) I put the SKF(unmarked) one on.

Attachments:

• rotor.jpg

[Darren]

i think the parking brake just needs turned back a little bit. that is the only thing that could be holding things up when you put the rotor on, when you put the rotor on do you really have to push it/hammer it on? if so just adjust the star on the bottom of the assembly to retract the shoes. just keep backing it off a little bit until the rotor goes on smoothly and when you actuate the park brake it holds.

[Goldie]

I will take a look at the shoes more closely, No hammering required.
Also I have not used the parking brake in years and kind of afraid to now as I fear it might stick, I just don’t have the need to park on hills round these parts.

[Tri9SS]

I think if it spins with the washers then the rotor is pressing against something. I think the hat on the rotor might be slightly taller making the rotor sit back slightly more. Put the rotor on again with no washers and take two lug nuts and put them opposite each other and tighten a little at a time. rotate the roter and hub as you tighten lugs till you start to get the drag and binding and see what it is touching. I personally would not shim it out with the washers. Good luck.

[Goldie]

When I do the other side i am going to do more intense measuring and examination to see what is up. The one suspect now is the double lip on the under side of the rim, it is a single lip on the old rotor but looks like it might have been double before severe corrosion. I put a picture on here t oshow what i am talking about.

Attachments:

• Rotor.jpg

[Walter Cheryba]

I had this same problem on another make and model vehicle. The rotor is incorrect-repeat-the rotor is incorrect.

[Goldie]

Thanks sunset, yes that is what i deduced after finally getting to the other side and duplicating the problem but on the other side i also had to shim out the caliper to match the washer bump out on the rotor.
I also tested the old rotor on the new bearing on the other side and it spun free. I am going to contact R0ck Aut0 and see what they say, the rotors where a manufacturer closeout special low price item.
Figuring it is the inside height dimension of the top hat as someone else said or maybe the 2nd lip as i talked about earlier

[Walter Cheryba]

That is good news! Sad about Rock Auto though. I’ve had my problems with them from time to time. My worst story with them is an A/C compressor that failed one day out of warranty-they refused to help. I have to think that shipping was costly for rotors-they are not lightweight. I hope you have better luck with them than I did with my A/C compressor! Be sure you have some strong evidence as to why you think the part is wrong, i.e. measurement differences between old and new part etc. They can be stiff about things.
Best of luck to you!

[Author]

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