wheel alignment part 2

[Dan]

Hello again
Got my car aligned again after replacing the inner tie rods and oh man does it feel better. First off my train tracky sound when running over cracks is gone for the most part. I still hear it every so often but not consistently.
My new alignment results :
Camber: -0.9 LF, -1.2 RF
Caster: -0.2 LF, -0.5 RF
toe:0.01 LF, -0.02 RF

(Original alignment numbers here:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/62656-wheel-alignment?start=10#160661)

As you can see the caster is way better after putting the upper control arms on the correct side and the car feels more normal. I’m wondering why it isn’t correct.

The alignment guy said he can’t really give me an explanation, no frame damage, no alignment shims and nothing appears bent. It just seems to be according to him. He said it felt fine on the road test so ge would live with it.

The car feels fine but you can still feel the negative caster. At low speed the wheen doesn’t center itself and is more gabby in turns, if that makes sense. If you drive and turn faster than really slow the car behaves normally. I haven’t driven it on the highway yet but it’s not terrible anymore.

I have replaced the upper arms, axles, inner and outer tie rods so it’s not them.

If the car was ditched on the highway let’s say is it possible both lower control arms were bent equally?
What else can make the caster negative?

Topic

[college man]

I don’t know how to get the caster positive? Did you try an auto or frame shop?

[Dan]

I haven’t yet. I was hoping after replacing the parts I have it would fix it, not completely but it did help.
I thought the alignment guy. Could tell me but he couldn’t see anything either.
I’m guessing a collision shop could tell me why, or honda.
How much should I expect to pay at a collision shop, if you know.

[Author]

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