Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Tool Talk › whats a good voltmeter?
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July 29, 2014 at 8:59 pm #618748
whats a good Voltmeter folks? i want something nice, quite a few times i have a friend whose car goes dead and sometimes it would be nice too just have one, whats a good one that will last me some time in your guys opinion? personally one with battery testing capabilities.
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July 29, 2014 at 11:40 pm #618758
I use a DVM daily at work. I am an electronic tech that repairs medical equipment. I use a Fluke 87V. I love it. A little Pricey and doesnt have a load test built in but I am sure can buy an add on for that or build your own. Whatever meter you get, get one with autorange.
July 30, 2014 at 4:27 am #618785I will second the Fluke rec. I have two of them that I bought over 20 years ago. No issues at all.
July 30, 2014 at 8:20 am #618831i have heard VERY good things about FLUKE, so i think that is the direction i will go! thanks for your advice guys.
August 1, 2014 at 6:28 am #619138FLUKE 87V
JOHN
August 1, 2014 at 4:06 pm #619220+1 Fluke
+1 AutorangeI would favour autorange as my top prio.
August 1, 2014 at 9:28 pm #619263I just got a Fluke 112 RMS but envy the snap on Verus lol :silly:
August 3, 2014 at 11:44 pm #619756[quote=”Monkey wrench” post=106641]I just got a Fluke 112 RMS but envy the snap on Verus lol :silly:[/quote]
The Snap-On Verus isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. Yes it does pretty much everything and has a 4-channel labscope built in. The down side is (especially with the last update)there’s so much other crap going on that its as slow as molasses on a winter morning. Never mind the initial price tag or the yearly software updates.
I use a manual ranging Snap-On EEDM503D which is what everyone else in the shop uses. If your testing a voltage drop or watching for resistance changes you don’t want the range to be auto adjusting.
August 4, 2014 at 1:18 am #619810It really depends on the money you want to spend and what youre using it for. it sounds to me you just want to do simple diagnosis. Dead Battery, Alternator… little stuff. if youre not a professional then just go to your local auto parts store and get one for 20$ I have a 20$ one ans a 40$ one and i work in a shop. So if you are DIY just go simple and dont spend too much.
August 4, 2014 at 10:59 pm #619971dually noted….I was gonna buy one super cheap on eBay when a friend informed me that the reason it was so cheap was cause they prolly haven’t been updated in quite a while and that a year alone could cost upto a thousand!!! yikes, but still find myself covetous of this product….probably because of the toy factor….I mean you can turn your fuel pump on or roll a window down (from what I have heard) but your right at that price I might as well just turn the key and roll the window up/down myself lol.[quote=”DaFirnz” post=106851][quote=”Monkey wrench” post=106641]I just got a Fluke 112 RMS but envy the snap on Verus lol :silly:[/quote]
The Snap-On Verus isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. Yes it does pretty much everything and has a 4-channel labscope built in. The down side is (especially with the last update)there’s so much other crap going on that its as slow as molasses on a winter morning. Never mind the initial price tag or the yearly software updates.
I use a manual ranging Snap-On EEDM503D which is what everyone else in the shop uses. If your testing a voltage drop or watching for resistance changes you don’t want the range to be auto adjusting.[/quote]
August 4, 2014 at 11:02 pm #619973Gonna be goin to school for my associates degree this fall so I am tryin to get a solid inventory list going so that I can know what will be most beneficial to buy with my Stafford loans. I have observed a lot of classified ads hiring for auto mechanics “with their own tools” so I plan on having a stock pile by the time I graduate.[quote=”jdub1022″ post=106877]It really depends on the money you want to spend and what youre using it for. it sounds to me you just want to do simple diagnosis. Dead Battery, Alternator… little stuff. if youre not a professional then just go to your local auto parts store and get one for 20$ I have a 20$ one ans a 40$ one and i work in a shop. So if you are DIY just go simple and dont spend too much.[/quote]
August 5, 2014 at 8:54 am #620103i do lots of work for lots of people, and i always find cheep voltmeters take a crap on me so i wanted something very nice i can rely on.
August 7, 2014 at 2:50 am #620353I got mine for my in progress electrical engineering degree. Its not for automotive but will work. I looked at fluke, BK, and uni-t. For automotive you will want something with a higher amp ratting as some will have a 10 amp max. look for a good 20 amp.
any way I ended up with the uni-t ut61e. give these video’s a look.
mjlorton has other good review videos.
August 7, 2014 at 8:25 am #620420thanks for the video!
August 7, 2014 at 1:59 pm #620456on a side note: I love my meter, but if i had to do it again:
I find my self needing to check rpm’s on old cars (tachometer) some meters have this.
I also find that this nice meter lacks an auto shutoff. I have killed 2 9-volt batteries and they are around $5-$6 each.I would look for auto range, auto shutoff, rpm if needed, and 20 amps, and true rms if needed.
August 8, 2014 at 5:51 pm #620645[quote=”DragonSung” post=107201]on a side note: I love my meter, but if i had to do it again:
I find my self needing to check rpm’s on old cars (tachometer) some meters have this.
I also find that this nice meter lacks an auto shutoff. I have killed 2 9-volt batteries and they are around $5-$6 each.I would look for auto range, auto shutoff, rpm if needed, and 20 amps, and true rms if needed.[/quote]
For automotive there’s not really any need for true RMS meters, if you need to check an AC signal you’re more than likely going to want it on an oscope, although if you’re using for EE, it’s always nice to have.
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