What Temperature Should Cooling Fans Click On

[Ang]

I’ve got a 2000 A/T Prelude(H22A4), just drained and filled the coolant a few days ago.
I was just wondering what temperature the rad fans should be clicking on, I was using my mechanics scanner and it seems the rad fans clicked on at 101C/214F and clicked off at 93C/200F.

Is this normal or should they be clicking on before?

Topic

[Lorrin Barth]

I see no problem here.

During WWII fighter planes went to pressurized cooling systems with antifreeze because it made the planes faster. The higher temperatures they could run with a pressurized cooling system allowed the use of a smaller radiator. A smaller radiator meant less drag. They could get by with a smaller radiator because the coolant was hotter. The greater the difference between the coolant temperature and the ambient air the better the heat exchange.

[dan]

completely normal, the fans on my car kick in at about 220 degrees.

most engines operate at temperatures between 190-220 degrees and as this gentelman has stated pressurized cooling systems allow temps above 212 degrees the boiling point of water because increasing pressure 1 PSI allows roughly 3 degrees F more temp before coolant boils.. glycol also assists in resisting boiling.

this allowed a smaller radiator for a more aerodynamic aircraft

quick fact now that we are talking about WWII aircraft and there cooling systems touching my other passion.

the P-51D Mustang had a special radiator located in the scoop below the wings which not only was very sufficient in cooling its V-1650-7 V12 Rolls Royce Packard Merlin engine, but it also created enough thrust too cancel the drag created buy the cooling system, as the cold air passed through the radiator it got hot, and expanded, coming out the tail end of its cooling system creating thrust, along with laminar flow wing and cutting edge streamlined air frame the P-51D Mustang for this reason could reach speeds of 437MPH under military power and 442-448MPH at war emergency power at altitudes of 25,000ft, and could fly 2,080 miles with a full fuel load and 108 gallon drop tanks.

[Ang]

thanks guys.

I don’t see anyway I can get the fans to click on beforehand, that’s controlled by the car’s computer.

[EricTheCarGuy]

If the cooling fans are cycling I wouldn’t worry about it. Just be sure you purge the air out of the cooling system anytime you open it up for service. If not, all kinds of problems will result including cooling fan issues.

More info here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats

[Ang]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=97965]If the cooling fans are cycling I wouldn’t worry about it. Just be sure you purge the air out of the cooling system anytime you open it up for service. If not, all kinds of problems will result including cooling fan issues.

More info here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats%5B/quote%5D

I’ve got the same funnel, bought it awhile ago after I saw your video.

When I was monitoring the temperature with the scanner I was looking at the ECT temperature, if I have time this week I’ll bleed it again and stick a meat thermometer into the rad whole/funnel while bleeding it, temperature should be close to what I monitored a few days ago.
I’ve got 2 sensors, one close to the thermostat and the other is beneath the Distributor, close to the Vtec solenoid, next to the temperature sending unit. From what I understand, the one beneath the distributor reports back to the car’s computer.

[Bill]

It looks perfectly normal to me.

[SDMAN1981]

I have one of those burping funnels and it was $25 well spent. Quick question… if you have a coolant reservoir doesn’t the air just purge out from the hose connected to the radiator and into the reservoir anyways?

[Lorrin Barth]

[quote=”SDMAN1981″ post=98046]I have one of those burping funnels and it was $25 well spent. Quick question… if you have a coolant reservoir doesn’t the air just purge out from the hose connected to the radiator and into the reservoir anyways?[/quote]

It does on everything I’ve owned. But since this continues to be an issue on this forum I must conclude it doesn’t on everything.

You have to have a working radiator cap and plumbing that seals going to the reservoirs for this to work. Most people think the radiator cap is good for the life of the engine when a radiator cap is a good one if it continues to function for 30K. And most people never pay any attention to the hose connection to the reservoir. If the hose connection doesn’t seal the radiator will dump air but then simply suck it back in again at shutdown.

Also, many posters of older vehicles on here are young people and young people are often very hard on vehicles. Wide open throttle contests are frequent. Well, the common torque to yield head bolts are like springs and may allow the head to lift at WOT dumping combustion gases into the water jacket. When the load is off the engine the head gasket seals again but now there is air in the system.

[Author]

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