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What is the trick to A/C Line Disconnection?

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  • #653028
    Gene KapoleiGene
    Participant

      OK, so I’m trying to pull the heater core on a 94 Taurus GL (Gen 2?). Already have a pile of parts on the ground and have the dashboard pulled out. Last part is pulling the hear core/ A/C condenser “box” off of the firewall. The only thing stopping me is TWO A/C line connections. Yes, the A/C has no charge, it probably leaked out years ago – the last time the A/C worked (as per the previous owner).

      So now I’m stuck, 6+ hours of work on hold over a couple of connections. Sigh. I bought a tool at Autozone, for helping break these connections and it no worky. Shoot I even tried on a fuel line where i could see and access things. Either that or the operator suffers from some ignorance that is stopping it from working.

      So what is the secret, technique or trick I am missing? HELP! :unsure:

    Viewing 4 replies - 16 through 19 (of 19 total)
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    • #653956
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        Wow big job. looks good. 🙂

        #653992
        Gene KapoleiGene
        Participant

          Yeah, just a bunch of things that need to be done on the Gen 2 Fords to get dash out so the heater core can be removed. Shops want $600 to $800 to do the job because it is a 6-8 hour job.

          color is flags I put on every connection to indicate where it belonged.

          [/b]

          ….saved disconnecting all of this spaghetti!

          #654018
          BluesnutBluesnut
          Participant

            Just a note for future reference. Those connectors will sometimes come apart a little easier if you try to seesaw them a little bit while pulling or forcing them. The O-rings dry and harden with age and heat and can be a PITA sometimes. The same goes for fuel lines, trans fluid and power steering lines, etc.

            You did an excellent job on this. Congratulations.

            Kind of sad that someone has to go through all of this for a cheap heater core. Adding an access door for the core during manufacture would have added 2 or 3 bucks to the cost of the car so they just laid a heater core on the assembly track and piled the rest of the car on top of it as it moved down the line…… 😉

            #654058
            Gene KapoleiGene
            Participant

              I have heat in the 94 Taurus! Yippee!!!

              Last night the weather was forecast to be in the 30s so yesterday I drained the coolant, flushed the system and added the Zerex Super Cleaner. Then I went for a 2.5 hour drive. (nothing like a drive with no heat! Yousa!)

              This morning another 2.5 hour drive and the Zerex had 5+ hours to work its magic in the cooling system. This afternoon, drained the system and flushed the whole thing by removing the thermostat and running hot water through everything. Even ran the engine a little bit too. Discharge from the Thermostat housing and drain-cock were clear. Allowed system to drain completely as I cleaned up the overflow reservoir.

              New OEM thermostat, new gasket and replaced hoses and other stuff taken out to give access. Refilled with green coolant and burped the system following the procedure in Eric’s video. Got the air out, refilled the overflow reservoir, then removed the shunt from the hoses and connected them to the new heater core!

              Got in the passenger compartment, fired up the engine, cranked the heat and blower and high and WOW!

              THERE WAS HEAT!

              Lots of heat – Nice and warm & toasty!

              Good to have heat again and the car back for winter use!

              Now gotta figure out a way to get the ethylene glycol smell out of the ducts. any ideas?

            Viewing 4 replies - 16 through 19 (of 19 total)
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