- This topic has 8 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 11 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
And, related question: What is a best flushing prduct? I am trying to deep flush my Honda, it had nothing but water run in it for a long time. I am trying to determine if any part of it, including heater core, is plugged up. I may even have the heater core hoses on reverse order, if that matters (does it? For heat?) But I am attempting a “drive-in chemical flush.” I do not even know how long to do that for.
I do hope this is the right forum for this, but, this before I put a new thermostat in my car!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
-
Replies
-
What makes you think that you need to clean out your cooling system so thoroughly? Unless someone put GM Dexcool in it years ago, it shouldn’t be too bad. Eric has a video on heater core flushing. Unless your system is really that contaminated, I’m going to say you would be better off just draining and filling your radiator a few times, once any excess water gets into the system it becomes a pain to get the mix back in check.
It would also be a good idea to try and go back to the genuine Honda coolant as it comes premixed and shouldn’t carry that much of a premium.
If you are getting no heat from your heater core, grab the inlet and outlet hoses and see if their is a big temperature difference. they should both be hot if the heater core is flowing.
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=153974]What makes you think that you need to clean out your cooling system so thoroughly? Unless someone put GM Dexcool in it years ago, it shouldn’t be too bad. Eric has a video on heater core flushing. Unless your system is really that contaminated, I’m going to say you would be better off just draining and filling your radiator a few times, once any excess water gets into the system it becomes a pain to get the mix back in check.
It would also be a good idea to try and go back to the genuine Honda coolant as it comes premixed and shouldn’t carry that much of a premium.[/quote]
My radiator[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/10/1e428ff7776cd429b05b8fcc81b97988.jpg[/IMG]
:good:
What my car is doing:
1. I turn it on, it drives fine. Fun. Yay.
2. At some point the temp creeps up past hafway.
3. Concerned, I pull over.
4. I open hood.. no signs of overheating. I put my hand on hoses and everything.
5. Confused, I put the car to “Ignition/run” and let the e-fan come on.
6. Temperature then returns to normal usually in 2 minutes, sometimes it takes about 5 minutes.
7. Start it back up, and go on my merry way.
8. Happened again..Now, either I have not bled out all my air (I DID change a Thermostat an hour before,) or.. ???? Radiator? Clog?
Will re-read your response now.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
I would say that looks pretty bad. I would change that radiator and try to flush the system as best as possible before reassembly and go from there.
Do you still have the t-stat you pulled out of it? I’m assuming you aren’t the original owner so whoever had the car before you might have pulled a fast one and had a lower temp t-stat in there to mask an overheating issue. If you still have it, it might have the opening temp stamped on it somewhere.
There’s a chance it might matter which hose goes to which orifice on your heater core too, I don’t know if Hondas have this, but my Chevy has a restrictor in the inlet hose to reduce the pressure going into the core. I don’t think it would be terribly important but might make the core leak faster if it’s supposed to have one that’s missing or they’re reversed.
Eric’s FAQ section mentions that air in the cooling system is the #1 cause of overheating issues, I’d definitely revisit that before you go doing anything expensive, let it heat up to normal operating temp with the radiator cap off and keep it running while squeezing the hoses (use a glove if you need to) especially those heater hoses, that’ll help move any trapped air around the system until it can find its way out in the radiator. If the fluid level drops much just keep adding coolant. Also make sure you keep an eye on the gauge and don’t let it get too hot, might have to do it in a couple sessions.
I did a head gasket job on my Chevy so the whole engine was filled with air, it took a good 20 minutes of bubbling before I figured it was done “burping” itself.Get one of those coolant testers with the floating balls. See what it says.
Re-bleed the system. Could still have air in the lines. And pressure test the radiator cap.
If still has an issue maybe a defective thermostat
As far as I know, over time the additives that prevent corrosion and rusting are what go bad and this is why there’s a service interval. But coolant itself (minus those additives) doesn’t expire and should be able to prevent overheating/freezing as long as the ratio to water is correct.
However if the coolant was never replaced and the corrosion inhibitors lost their ability the system could have gunked up slowing down the flow of coolant causing your issue.
The core of that radiator is plugged up. you change all the parts you want but that radiator isn’t going to do its job very well if it cant flow. your staring a known issue in the face. always fix what you know is bad and then reassess from their.
[quote=”ArmedsouthernEr” post=154182]The core of that radiator is plugged up. you change all the parts you want but that radiator isn’t going to do its job very well if it cant flow. your staring a known issue in the face. always fix what you know is bad and then reassess from their.[/quote]
Not only that, but they are pretty easy to change and can be had fairly cheap.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.