What car to Get?

[Justin]

Okay, my 2008 Mazda 3 again has a P0126, and to be honest I don’t want to pay the $310 to have it fixed nor do I want to fix it myself because I am afraid of bleeding a cooling system. (i.e. Do it wrong and I will be needing an engine.) It also needs the tires re road-force-balanced because there is a “slight” vibration at certain speeds… $60.

Bottom line is I am sick of paying for repairs even though they have been relatively minor:
A Coil Pack $91 (Don’t know if I should count the full set of OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs ~$50)
Washer Fluid Sprayer Nozzles $60
Exhaust Heat Shield $670
Blower Motor $777
Power Steering Pump (Recall)

Maintenance Done:
3 sets of replacement tires (alignment each time)… Always road-force balanced… Monthly inflation/rotation… ALWAYS torqued to 80ft lbs (star pattern with torque wrench)
Oil Change every 5k with Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w-20 & Factory Filter
Brake Fluid Change (once at 60k though not in book)
Coolant change at 60k with FL22 (pre-mix)… Apparently didn’t help the thermostat survive past 88k
Trans-axle Fluid Change with Mazda M-V fluid at 30k, 60k (not in book)
Two Car Batteries
OEM Front Brake Pads (rotors turned only later around 70k to correct 5 thousandths run-out/pulsation)
OEM Rear Pads

The car has 90K on it and runs like a champ (i.e. idles smooth as glass, no rattles, shifts are silky smooth etc.) Body has a small divot in the driver’s side door.

Tires still have 9/32, rear pads 9mm front pads 5mm (a tad low).

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Overall, I am thinking about dumping this car and getting something new. I want some feedback. By every measure it fits into the “Very Good” KBB with a Trade-In value of $7,650 (more like $7,200 after repairs)

Question is what vehicle would you buy:
1. Ford Fusion
2. Nissan Altima v6
3. Honda Accord (EX-L) v6
4. Chevrolet Malibu (4 cyl /w turbo)
5. Possibly an Infnity
6. Possibly something from Toyota (though I am not a fan of the styling on the new Camry, and don’t want a vehicle in the size-class of a Corolla)

As a mechanic, what would you buy? why? Perhaps something else?

I want: Reliability, Warranty, Easy to Work on… and a great ride. Budget is around $30k (only $25k if I don’t do a trade-in). I want something with High 200’s to Low 300’s in HP

Second: Should I trade away my 08 Mazda 3 S Touring (Sedan) or keep it? Has it been as good, better, or worse than most cars on the road given the repairs I have done and what it needs? How reliable will it likely stay? Regardless if I keep it, I am going to need to change (or get changed) “Brake Fluid, Transmission Fluid, & Power Steering Fluid need changing in addition to the Thermostat/Coolant &&& re road-force balance ALL four tires).

Topic

[Ed]

Have you looked into Hyundai, they have a 100k warranty and the Sonata has more Hp than the fusion camry or accord. 274hp available.
And it starts at $21k MSRP

[Justin]

Absolutely nothing from Hyundai or Kia for me. Worst car I have EVER owned was a Hyundai… NEVER again.

My very first car, EVER was a 2002 Hyundai Accent GS 1.6 L… The ONLY thing good about this car can be described in one word “WARRANTY”

That car was the biggest (err. smallest) POS that ever went down the road.

7K Started rattling in the doors
15k would NOT shift gears… Needed a new pulse sensor or something
20K Speakers went out and took two tries to get fixed.
30K Transmission roughness… Poor shift quality
35K No Reverse Gear… Iron filings in transmission gravey… Gets new Transmission
45K Won’t Shift… Gets replacement solenoid
55k Starts slipping
60K Gets new Timing Belt. Within 15 miles timing belt breaks. Gets replacement engine
65K Starts making sonic booms with every shift… Shifts so rough it leaves black marks on the road!!! Starts stalling out at EVERY stop light as if someone forgot to push in the non-existant clutch. Gets new Transmission
80K Some other transmission component needed changing
89K Would NOT pass Calfornia smog NOx too high. Wanted $1495 for a new CAT

Was towed on the flat-bed truck-of-shame a couple times.

Needed tires every 17,500 miles (They would NOT wear right despite having an alignment)
Unable to align. Was recommended to install camber kit or camber bolt or something.
AC quit working annually.
Blower motor quit (luckily it was cake to replace and only about $60)
Needed front brake pads every 15,000!
Had incredible brake fade. Sometimes you would hit the brakes at like 45 MPH and it would require a football field’s distance to stop. (It did help to pull the eBrake… NOBODY could EVER find out why though)

Was doing a little song and dance when I got a brand, new car in 2008. It was amazing. A) It didn’t rattle or shutter. B) Took some getting used to the brakes being I had the propensity to brake HARD just to get the other car to stop. This one kept trying to throw me through the window util I was used to it, lol. C) It does 0 – 60 in the same time the Hyundai did 0 – 40. D) Its transmission was SO much smoother I had to watch the display and look at the tachometer to see it really did shift, and D) Got better Gas Millage E) Its maintenance consisted of “oil changes”

[Jonathan Stiver]

At least you know better than most about Hyundai / Kia 😉 I would stay away from Honda and possibly any Asian car nowadays. Seems like quality went off the deep end to cut costs and boost profits based on their reputation built in the 90s. Ford, Chevy, etc. is the way to go now. I would recommend the Malibu.

But after that hurdle you just overcame to get the 3 through smog, might as well enjoy another year out of it! Doesn’t seem like it’s been that bad to you, especially compared to that Hyundai so depending on your tolerance I might stick it out for a little longer.

[Willo]

Locally, the kia / hyundai dealership is the largest dealer in the state,
with several kia hyundai dealer located in several cities. Nothing against Billy,
I wish I could pump out as much product as he seems to be able to sell.
I guess since sales and service is a take what you get an like it or —–,
MSRP has a lot of customers taking a second look.
I alwasy look for the spces I want ( still haven’t found any even close ) but
service is always a crap shoot that you find out about after you pay and pay and pay some more.

[Justin]

Not sure what you are talking about. What State?

Also, all that said, I don’t care because I am NOT even remotely considering a Kia or Hyundai… Been burned once, and I am done!

[David Roddick]

Going back to original list, Honda and Toyota may still be the best. Camry styling is lacking but ride is better than Accord and Subaru Legacy (sporty ride = rough ride). New Fusion is really nice but ride is a little hard compared to Camry. All the above are pretty easy to service (as far as routine service goes). Chevy Impala is also up there but may be on the high side price wise. You mentioned “new” – I like to define “new” as “new to me.” So I like used cars (certified used cars even more) so someone else takes the initial depreciation hit. If you are open to slightly used, check out a 2011-2012 Legacy especially the premium version. I’ve also considered Kia and Hyhundai but I just read a lot that folks that have owned these for a couple of years are not very happy even with the great warranty. You see I’m a Mustang person (by my id)- Mustangs for me are special. I have one for daily driver, one old one that is restored and an 08 Bullitt that I show. But for trips (except for Mustang shows) I have a Camry. And yes, I don’t care for the looks per se, but I love the ride and I average 33 mpg (combined city and highway – yes, it’s the 4-cylinder).

[Author]

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