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Weird electrical problems with a 1997 Honda Civic

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  • #645527
    risacherrisacher
    Participant

      About two months ago my battery light came on. Stopped at an Auto Zone and had them check the battery. The device that they used said bad battery. I bought a new battery and then started the car. The battery light was still on. Tested the alternator next. Said the alternator was bad. Retested my old battery, said it was good. Returned the newly purchased battery and purchased a alternator. Put in the alternator, battery light still on. Had the original battery and alternator tested several times. The light is on at night when the headlights are on and first thing in the morning (no headlights), then it goes out. Additionally, the indicator light for low fuel level stopped working. I took the dash apart and switched a bulb from the trunk open to the fuel level space. Still the light is out? Any suggestions?

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    • #645721
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        For the battery light Load test the alternator. If an aftermarket alternator
        was used this most likely is the issue. more in this link. The low fuel light
        is controlled from the sending unit.

        http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems

        http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

        #645747
        TimTim
        Participant

          Maybe you have some excess current being drawn that is straining the electrical system, did she install a new stereo amp etc……

          Place a meter in series with battery terminals and read DC current in the key off, key on engine off, key on engine on and key on engine on headlights on.

          #646964
          risacherrisacher
          Participant

            The battery light coming on in the beginning was with the original alternator and battery. My question now is how many amps do the original equipment Honda alternators generate? My aftermarket one is around 75 amps.

            #646978
            BluesnutBluesnut
            Participant

              The amount of current (amps) your alternator generates is really not that relevant to the problem unless the car is buried under with massive stereo amplifiers, etc.

              A seventy-five amp rating is more than enough to maintain the battery and honestly; an alternator should never approach its rating. If that 75 amp alternator started putting out anywhere near 75 amps for more than a few seconds it will probably go up in smoke.
              If you had a 200 amp alternator and it started producing 180 amps for more than a few seconds it’s going to go up in flames very soon.

              What about the belt condition, tension, tensioner, etc?

              Check the voltage at the alternator and the battery when the engine is running. If it’s 13.5 or so at the alt. and 12.6 or under at the battery then you need to check the circuit between the alternator and battery. There should be a fusible link between the two; maybe it’s blown.

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