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2001 Corolla 1zz-fe
Was installing new water pump. 6 bolts total, 4 long bolts, 2 short bolts. The 2 short bolts for some reason doesnt want to screw in nicely. Well I messed up again and broke one of the short bolt off. Below is a pic of the broken bolt. Anyway I can get this damn bolt out?
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img203/6320/imag0485l.jpg[/IMG]
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Maybe hit it a couple times with a hammer and punch to loosen it before drilling and the PB blaster. May not need the heat if you can jar it with the punch.
It may be easier to remove the pump and then remove the rest of the bolt that way unfortunately 🙁
I would also purchase new bolts and inspect the threads. You may need to re-chase them. Also make sure you torque the bolts down to specs.
[quote=”dreamer2355″ post=32440]It may be easier to remove the pump and then remove the rest of the bolt that way unfortunately 🙁
I would also purchase new bolts and inspect the threads. You may need to re-chase them. Also make sure you torque the bolts down to specs.[/quote]What do you mean remove the pump? I can remove the other 5 bolts, but how can I remove the pump with a bolt that still stuck in there?
What do you mean remove the pump? I can remove the other 5 bolts, but how can I remove the pump with a bolt that still stuck in there?
Most water pumps are held in by the bolt head, with no threads in the pump portion. So, unless your pump is different I think you have a pretty good chance of removing the pump by just pulling it straight off after the 5 other bolts are removed. If you are lucky there will be some bolt length proud of the surface of the engine, and then you can use a bolt extractor to remove the bolt. For a video showing how that little tool works you can watch Duane from realfixesrealfast for an example of how that bolt extractor works, starting at 1:15 of this video.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D_8u1GkRkM[/video]
If there isn’t enough bolt sticking up then you could weld a nut/washer onto it, try vice grips, or if it’s deep to the block surface, drill it out. Of course PB blaster and or heat may be useful as well.
Based on the picture, it looks like once you remove the 5 bolts, you should be able to remove the broken bolt either by turning it by hand or with some pliers or vise grips.
[quote=”spelunkerd” post=32448]
Most water pumps are held in by the bolt head, with no threads in the pump portion. [/quote]thank you very much. i never thought of that. i’ll give it a try tomorrow.
[quote=”bd7″ post=32439]I dont think I get a drill in there with out lowering the engine. The frame is in the way.[/quote]
Right angle drill bit holder?
See if you can take out all other bolt and take out the water pump. You may not like this answer – but if it does not comes out, use brute force – get air hammer in there and split the bolt hole frame from the water pump – this will trash the water pump – but hey buy another one. they are not that expensive. Either way, as soon as the pump is out you should be able to grab using a vise grip to take out the rest of the bolt.
Thank you all the advice. Luckily it worked. Water pump came out nicely. I’m going to try to remove the rest of broken bolt with a vise grip tonight. Main concern right now is how to re-thread the hole. Also one of the other bolt was bent, so I took a toothpick and felt inside the hole and it was definitely not straight. I think I’ve done enough harm. Time to call a real mechanic. 🙁
[IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img837/3308/imag0487j.jpg[/IMG]
Before proceeding, I would pull the torque spec for that water pump bolts. Should be like 7 – 8 inches/lb. Also try running the bolt without the water pump just to get feel for rethreaded bolts and run the mounting bolts with your finger nails. If any bolts are re-threaded, thread chase each bolt hole using tap & die set, and replace the damaged bolts.
I was in the camp of pulling the pump and it looks like that worked for you. A tap and dye set is what you’ll need next to repair the threads and some new fasteners to replace the damaged ones. I often get all my fasteners started before tightening any of them down to prevent binding of the other fasteners. On that engine it can be tricky since I believe some of the bolts go to the thermostat housing and some bolt to the block so if you tighten some down before installing the rest of the fasteners it’s easy to get one or more of them in a bind which can lead to threading problems like you have.
Keep us posted on your progress.
I feel for you, man. And you should not be surprised to learn that most of us have been there too, in one way or another.
It’s a horrible feeling to learn that you’ve caused more harm than good, but none of the problems you have encountered are insurmountable, and a pro will get you quickly out of this bind. A classy pro will not rub your nose in the fact you screwed up, and if you find one like that, then he’s probably found a lifetime friend and customer.
Eric’s suggestion, to thread all bolts finger tight before using a wrench on any, is sage advice, but a little late for you. Guys who do this every day know little tricks like that to help keep themselves out of trouble. However even the best mechanics will have bad days, and so don’t beat yourself up too much.
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