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Good morning all.:-)
I’m puzzled to say the least. OK so back to the ’00 Mitsubishi eclipse radiator issue…. I put in a new rad & a new t-stat, the hoses were fine so I kept them, I flushed the system with plain water trying to rinse out as much of the stop leak as possible cuz that coolant was nasty & I could see where the stuff had just settled in the hoses & water ports. I also cleaned the overflow tank real well. Hooked everything back up, filled it with plain water, set the heat to hot, started it, waited for the fans to come on, & t-stat to open so I could add more water when the level dropped ( hoping to flush out heater core) but none of the above happens. The temp gauge in car rose to midoint, but the lower rad hose never got warm (indicating t stat opened). Instead, after about 10 min, the water started boiling up out of the rad again. I saw no movement of the water in the rad either.shouldn’t it be visibly flowing inside there? So I got scared & shut it off thinking “great! There’s a blockage somewhere” I did note however that almost as soon as I started the car, even before the temp gauge gave a reading, I could feel heat coming off the block. And this car has been sitting for 3 weeks. How can the engine get so hot so fast?
I didn’t see any leaks anywhere, but I had the rad cap off. Should I have had it on? By the way, Its a new cap too.
I know the rad isn’t clogged cuz I left it unhooked & just put the garden hose in the upper inlet & let it come out the lower. I noticed the belt was loose so I’m gonna try to tighten it up see if that helps. But if that’s not the problem I AM LOST.
Not sure if I mentioned in my first post about this car when I gave the whole run down that the A/C compressor froze up so the belt that runs between it, & power steering isn’t even on it anymore. That was removed prior to the trip north. But apparently, the water pump is ran by that same belt? Or is the water pump still being operated by the alternator belt? I don’t know. I hope someone can make some sense out of this so they can enlighten me. 🙂 I’d greatly appreciate any help.THANK YOU …. in advance
Jonny
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Did you bleed the cooling system correctly? If there is air in the system, it could cause an overheat condition.
according to this diagram your water pump is driven by the timing belt.
The stop leak may have clogged your water pump.http://www.justanswer.com/car/2tyvg-change-water-pump-2000-eclipse-gt.html
Hi, no I didn’t because I wasn’t finished flushing it. I was going to bleed after I put new coolant in.
Thank you
Only way to do that is to pull the thing… and if you’re gonna do that, you might as well replace it.
Stop-Leak is nasty stuff…
-Hinoki
What I would do if I were you is hook the system back up. Fill it completely with water. Bleed all the air out of the system.
Get a gallon size ziplock bag. Cut a strip slightly smaller then the radiator cap hole at its most narrow point and about 12″ long. Use a perm marker and put a line down the middle of it long ways. Doesn’t have to be perfect. Start the car up lower one end of it into the radiator and see if it pulls it along. Then have someone slowly raise the rpms and see if it pulls the piece of bag faster. The line is just to help see it better. I also recommend using a flashlight. This is not a perfect test as if the pump is dragging on the dried up stop leak it will still have flow but, if it is not moving at all you will definitely know. Just whatever you do, do not let go of the piece of bag and if the bag starts to melt/shrival up pull it out immediately in one smooth action.
Something to keep in mind just because its pushing out the radiator doesn’t mean its necessarily a coolant issue. If you have bad cylinder head, cylinder head gasket, or cracked piston wall exhaust gases will push the water up and out of the vehicle. It would also consume some going down the road. Testing for this is best done with a 5 gas analyzer and a hose so you do not get coolant in the 5 gas analyzer. Most places would just use a block tester and you may be able to rent one of those from an auto store.
As for the last paragraph….Wow, I can only hope & pray that those are not the issue. Although I am aware it may come down to that.
OK as for the water flow through the radiator??
It ain’t! Period. :- That’s one thing I DO know, therefore I’ve watched & waited to see that happening, but no. It literally does nothing other than vibrate with the engine while its running.
A friend told me that I should’ve had the cap on rad and fans on full blast inside car with heater on to get everything moving, & that I should only be adding fluid to overflow tank because its a closed system? And without cap on, proper pressure couldn’t build up. Is that so? I doubt it, because Etcg’s vid on that subject proves otherwise.
Back to the point… What does it mean when the water isn’t flowing? Thanks again. Jonny[quote=”Jonnygirl” post=145089]As for the last paragraph….Wow, I can only hope & pray that those are not the issue. Although I am aware it may come down to that.
OK as for the water flow through the radiator??
It ain’t! Period. :- That’s one thing I DO know, therefore I’ve watched & waited to see that happening, but no. It literally does nothing other than vibrate with the engine while its running.
A friend told me that I should’ve had the cap on rad and fans on full blast inside car with heater on to get everything moving, & that I should only be adding fluid to overflow tank because its a closed system? And without cap on, proper pressure couldn’t build up. Is that so? I doubt it, because Etcg’s vid on that subject proves otherwise.
Back to the point… What does it mean when the water isn’t flowing? Thanks again. Jonny[/quote]No flow no cooling. You either have air in the system or the water pump is not moving water.
It could be many things stopping the coolant circulating.
I would take out the water pump, disconnect the hoses to the engine (water intake & outlet pipes) then get a hose pipe with a trigger nozzle along with a rag, Place the trigger nozzle into the water intake hole on the engine itself and wrap the rag around the nozzle so no water can get out of that hole, Pull trigger to get the water to push anything that may be blocking any passage ways, You’ll see water coming out the water outlet when its clear. also while you have the water pump out you can inspect it and test it.
It could also be a faulty thermostat so check that also.
Thank u. Yeah I did all of that except pull the wp. I’m saving that as one of the last resorts. 😉
Unfortunately these things don’t come as easily for me as they do you guys. I soooo wish all this automotive stuff came natural to me, but.. I’m still
Keep in on.Well damn, after writing a fairly lengthy & quite detailed reply topic, hit submit but my connection took a pooh, so I thought I’d go take a pee & it’ll have submitted once the connection was back. No such luck. All that time ..wasted.
I’m over it 😛 ,, but for one question I’d like to get out only I’m not sure if enough eyes will see it here under this old topic…
I’ll give it a try…. How bad would it be if say the drive belt was a bit too taut? It was loose so I had some assistance tightening it but I’m afraid it may be too tight now.More then likely the belt will just stretch some as it heat cycles. If it is really really too tight. It can burn up bearings in any of the pieces it rides on. Usually in that case first thing to go are tensioner or idlers and they will screech worse and worse as they go bad. They do make belt tension gauges but, they are either really complicated to use, widely inaccurate, or there is no specification listed by manufacturer.
Generally if you can twist it about 1/8″ it is fine. If you can spin it completely around 180 degrees it is too loose, going bad, or you have a bad tensioner.. Obviously though this is not a perfect test.
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