VW guys, please help me out.

[Billy]

Doing timing chains on a 2000 Jetta 12 VR6, AFP engine code. The lower chain is timed bang on perfectly, but the uppers seem to have slack between them no matter what I do. Also the cam lock plate will slide into the 2,4,6 bank cam when the mark is brought back to tdc, but the cam lock plate is a half to 1 mm off the valve cover deck and the 1,3,5 cam is just ever so slightly off from the cam plate fitting into its slot because the slack between the cams is gone. It also seems to want to rotate just a touch before the cams move, but there isn’t enough slack on the tension side of the chains to move another tooth on the sprocket. Nor is there enough slack between the chains to move another tooth on them to tighten the chain between them. I’ve read the the older AAA VR6 engines are almost never perfect, but stupidly I didn’t check the TDC mark on the crank before tearing it apart, however both cams aligned perfectly and it was running good, just noisy

All slack out of chain

1,3,5 cam doesn’t quite line up

With the cam aligned to the lock I have this much slack

All slack out of chain again this is the result

1,3,5 cam aligned but the lock barely sitting off the deck

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Topic

[Charles]

Most likely you are just seeing wear on the chain. It does not appear you can move the chain a tooth. Isn’t the slack taken up by the tensioner?

[Billy]

Yea that’s the thing bud the chains are spanking new

[Charles]

I guess you are thinking with the alignment tool attached to the cams there should be no slack in the chain. The alignment tool is for the purpose of properly installing the chain. As long as you are sure the chain is on the correct tooth of each gear you are good to go. I have seen the same thing on timing belts where the timing marks don’t exactly line up with the new belt installed. Once the chain is properly tensioned and the tools removed the valve train will not be off a measurable amount.

[Billy]

Correct. I’m thinking of when I first got into it that the tool lined up perfectly, but there was slack between the chains then as well. Something else troubling me is that the crank rotates a little before the chains begin to rotate. Brother this thing is super tight on the tension side. I couldn’t get it to go another tooth if I wanted to. The lower I checked and checked again and each time I roll around to TDC, the little pointer lines up with the vertical notch in behind it. Also there aren’t any marks on the chain or any special colored links. They’re Iwis brand from Germanautoparts.

[Bryan]

Are you -certain- it is a genuine chain? I don’t know the company you mentioned, but it’s kinda creepy. I’d just finished reading an article dealing with a counterfeit IWIS timing chain and can’t help but wonder if you got one too.

Here’s a snippet of the article I’d read:
Before reaching out to the manufacturer of the real chain I did a little testing for myself. These fake chains weigh more than OEM chains (.5 oz) and have more lateral play then an OEM chain as well +/-10 degrees… Given what you said about it not lining up right….

Here’s the article: https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/3sp9rn/fake_timing_chain_thanks_northside_imports_inc/

You might want to read it, as it has a few pictures of what the stamped logo for a IWIS timing chain really looks like.

Just a thought.

-Hinoki

[Billy]

Yep that’s the logo on the chain and I had the red Iwis box with the holographic sticker. Germanautoparts.com has a pretty good reputation and were recommended to me numerous times. Here’s something else as well. I got so frustrated last night that I took out my caliper and measured the crank rotation to the point that the slack is out of the chain. It is exactly 10.00 millimeters. So I measured peak to peak on the sprocket teeth, and again it is exactly 10.00 millimeters. So I backed it up exactly 10 mm BEHIND the TDC mark, and tried to move a tooth on the sprocket. No go. The chain was too tight to get the guide rail in. So please check my reasoning here. Since my crank moves 10 mm and my sprocket teeth are 10 mm apart, and there is a 2:1 ratio there, I’m 5 mm off correct? Which is half a tooth. Also, the same thing happens with my old upper chain. I tried it. Now, I’ve been told by a VW tech that a half tooth is impossible, and that the tensioner will take it up. A second opinion from a different VW tech said DO NOT start the car half a tooth off. It’s been 50/50 back and forth between them. Any suggestions?

[Bryan]

I’m gonna come down firmly on the camp of ‘DO NOT START IT’.

Starting it with the timing chain in the state its in is akin to pulling the pin of a hand grenade and spending the next four seconds deciding which hand to throw it with.

You’re dealing with something that not only can.. but WILL destroy your engine if it is done wrong. It really isn’t worth taking the chance.

Much as I can tell you’re reluctant to throw in the towel, you may wish to consider flat-bedding the car to your local mechanic and letting them have a look. Something’s off, and you’ve done quite a bit of research and working on it. Given the risk to the continued viability of your engine, and given that diagnosing and assisting with repairs remotely.. personally? If it were mine, I’d take it in.

-Hinoki

[Billy]

I’m in the same do not start it camp. I’m seriously afraid of moving the car because the engine is hanging by one mount

[Author]

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