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Hi guys, my first post here in the ETCG forum. I love Eric´s videos and can´t wait until he posts another one!
I have run into a problem here in Sweden though, and I thought maybe I could get some info on where to look next to solve this problem.
A friend/customer of mine has a Volvo V70 I Think it´s a -99 or maybe -00 year model.
A while ago the check engine light came on. The code I pulled was P0135. Sensor heater failure. Bank 1, sensor 1.The sensor has 4 cables. Blue, white, and 2 black ones. I pulled the connector apart and Ohm measured over the 2 black wires. It had infinate resistance. My conclusion was that the heater circuit was indeed bad.
We got a new “universal” sensor. It also has 4 wires of course, 1 black, 1 grey and 2 White ones.
I then Ohm measured over the 2 White wires and got 5,7 Ohm´s of resistance and was happy about fitting the new one that should solve the problem.I crimped the connectors like this 2 White – 2 black = heater Circuit.
Blue signal (old sensor) – black wire on the new sensor.
White (old sensor) – grey = ground.
Now for the problem, it still sets the exact same code when the check engine light comes back on again.
Did I do something wrong, or is there another problem maybe in the wiring?Please try to shed some light on this matter fellas!
Thanks
/Daniel
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Thanks for the reply, I did not know there was a fuse for it. I have never noticed that. Thanks, will look at this very soon.
The old sensor was probably the original one, it said both “Volvo” and “Denso” on it.
The new one had nothing written on it.
I went over to his house to check for fuses. In the “main” fuse box there was a 20 amp fuse called “emission system”. The fuse was fine, but since I did not have the car in my shop, AND it started to rain I could not measure to see if voltage was going through it. That is my next step I guess.
I did bring my scanner over, and I had a look at live data while running the engine.
The secondary sensor was switching it´s voltage up and down like normal, but the first one just showed a steady 0.5 Volts. Why is that?[URL=http://s265.photobucket.com/user/D-K_bucket/media/20130519_162024.jpg.html][IMG]http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/D-K_bucket/20130519_162024.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
It could be the generic o2. I would suggest a denso
replacement. They are the maker for volvo. The aftermarket
ones are cheaper but just don’t work right.I understand the concept of quality and getting what you pay for. If a $350 Denso sensor is popped in, and it still doesn´t work, who will pay for all that extra? You?
I´m soon going to check the wiring for the heater circuit. I have a feeling there is no power or perhaps a bad ground there.
And btw, I have heard of a lot of people having luck with these generic sensors, so I doubt the new sensor is the problem.
What is your take on the sensor showing a steady 0.5 V when viewing live data? Is that just something that the ECM does when something is wrong? Like a fail safe thing? And just keep it there and not going in to closed loop?
/ thanks
For some reason the o2 is not switching. Can you clear the code?
Reading live data.Spray carb spray into the intake. The o2 reading
should spike to 1 volt. This will make a rich condition.If the o2
reading does not spike.either the o2 has a problem or there is a wiring
issue.I need to agree with college man. Go with a original Denso sensor. New vehicles have control circuits and is programmed with the original sensor.
Older models can work with aftermarket sensors but not new. well thats mt exp.
Your 0.5v reading tells me that your heater dont work, it depends on the system in the car. But If you check both sensors with the with KOEO or just started (Before the sensor is warmed up) I think you will se the same 0.5v on the rear O2. Since a O2 need to be warmed up to work.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Thanks, If I am to measure voltage through the heater circuit, when will/should there be 12 Volts going to it? All the time? Just in the beginning before the engine reaches temp?
I´m guessing the ECM controls this?
Sweden. It´s actually closer to $375 now that I checked. Geez.
I will make sure there is power going to it first.
Just an FYI, if you have an fault code for the o2 heater the ECM could shut it off as an protection. Just keep it in mind, try to clear the codes before measure.
By the way $375 sounds expensive(i’m also from sweden so I should know ;)) , Check if this is right for your car: http://www.tradera.com/lambdasond-volvo-c70-s60-s70-s80-v70-1998-07-denso-auktion_343535_182050146 Compare with your original part number.
About $245.
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