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valve cover, spark plug, and spk wire chg-problem

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here valve cover, spark plug, and spk wire chg-problem

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  • #837893
    Stephen SmithStephen Smith
    Participant

      1999 honda accord 5-speed manual, 160k 2.3L 4 cycl

      Worked with my buddy on the car tonight. I really stumped him because he works on cars a lot. We redid all the spark plugs, wires, tighten cam shaft bolts to 16 ft/lbs spec. He sanded the contacts in the distrubeter cap and rotor, and tightened the valve cover bolts to spec. We retightened the camshaft bolts, 8 of them, because there was a piece of metal that prevented one of rockers from moving,that was the valve sound in the first video below. He said since the rocker didn’t break the car should not be damaged. Once all put back together we tried starting the car. The car won’t turn over by itself but by manually opening up the throttle the car engine won’t stall.

      We are hoping you guys can provide us with any advice based on these new video because we are dumb founded.

      Here’s right after I installed all the new parts 3 days ago, before the paragraph above. Car is running roughly, idling high, and rpm bobbing, 3 days ago.

      Here tonight right after doing all the re-installs with my buddy.

      no CEL at all

    Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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    • #837916
      MikeMike
      Participant

        So, where did this piece of metal, which was preventing a rocker arm from moving, come from? If it was my car, that’s the question I’d be trying to answer.

        And, you’d think there’d be some damage, somewhere, by forcing a cam to rotate against a component that didn’t follow the cam profile as it was designed to do.

        #837926
        Stephen SmithStephen Smith
        Participant

          The piece of metal is hack job a mechanic did on my head and valve cover when I bought the car 45,000 miles ago at 120k when changing the timing belt. He said that someone got something stuck in the head threads and he couldn’t drill it out to retap.

          Here’s some pictures of the hack job. I made the mistake of getting the hack job too close to the spring. If I get the car running again I’ll get rid of the hack job be retapping it myself. After using punch and 5 hours of elbow grease I have gotten rid of most the metal that was in the hole out. The alumnium of the head, underneath is easy to drill.

          #837957
          Stephen SmithStephen Smith
          Participant

            Tonight I cleaned out the IAC , it appeared to be stuck. Car appears to be running better but still won’t start on its own and will only stay running with the gas pedal engaged. CEL light finally came on after a minute of running the car. Misfire in cylinder 4.

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09YjmJOOjLU[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09YjmJOOjLU[/video]

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ve5P7JRPfqg[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09YjmJOOjLU”]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09YjmJOOjLU[/video]

            Checking for exaust leaks is on my list of things to test. I bought the carb cleaner today from autozone. I also plan to put a new distributor and rotor in. Any recommendations or should I go with honda OEM?

            Does anyone have any new ideas, or refined ideas from the new videos?
            Thanks!!!

            [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LH-kFpoCV5AXPEqLTpkoQJ237venN29S7AnAREykM_k=w1247-h935-no[/IMG]

            [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6jKby92l17kL2rPEDNMk8bvElAQ-xcMno421A0mQeeM=w702-h935-no[/IMG]

            [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vSkJb9nMvN8RXAqjqSZlNpXpKhGiLEeYoEle6HnUEDc=w1247-h935-no[/IMG]

            #838142
            Stephen SmithStephen Smith
            Participant

              Still having issues getting my 160k MT 99 accord 4 cylinder to stay running, and while running idle in parke the car shakes are quite big. Did a compression test and got 180psi on 1,2, and 4.

              Looks like the metal piece did good bit of damage.

              3 had 0 psi compression. One of the valves is quite low and out of the valve keepers. Could this be the cause of the 0 psi?

              Please advise. Thanks!!!

              #838145
              WillWill
              Participant

                If you have 0 psi on cylinder 3 and the valve for that cylinder looks funny it is very likely that that is your problem. It is probably not closing and hence the air will not compress in that cylinder. If this is the case your car will basically be running on 3 cylinders.

                #838169
                MikeMike
                Participant

                  [quote=”denierlexiese” post=145703]3 had 0 psi compression. One of the valves is quite low and out of the valve keepers. Could this be the cause of the 0 psi?[/quote]

                  If the valve has separated from the keepers, it will have dropped into the cylinder far enough to be tagged by the piston, bending the stem. At the very least, the head has to come off and the valve needs to be replaced.

                  #838176
                  Brett W.Brett W.
                  Participant

                    I agree with Evil-i def sounds like a bent valve. Before doing a valve job or replacing the head i would consider doing a leak down test.

                  Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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