Vacuum bleeding failure due to air leak around bleeder valve

[Christopher Holly]

Just installed a new master and slave for the clutch on my 1996 Honda Accord. First time I ever used a vacuum bleeder. I just could not face the pump and dump routine all alone with so little result. After getting a bum bleeder from HF, i got one that worked, but it did not seem to at first. I’d pump it up increasingly higher, but as soon as I turned the bleeder valve the least little bit, the vacuum was immediately lost. Dr. Google suggested antiseize compound on the bleeder threads. Did not have that and was getting tired of running to the parts store, so i pulled the valve and wrapped carefully only the threads with teflon tape. Reinstalled & Bob’s my uncle too! When I turned the bleeder now, hydraulic fluid and bubbles came out, and the vacuum pretty much lasted till the little bottle filled up, so I could spend my time pouring brake fluid into the reservoir. (Turns out my vac kit had a screw top for the brake fluid bottle and some related parts that I could have upended the bottle on the reservoir and drank beer while watching the stream of bubbles . . . . Bottom line, if you are replacing a part with a bleeder valve, pull the valve first, put teflon tape or anti-seize compound on the threads as a precaution. Don’t clog up the end of the valve where the fluid goes in once opened. Eric is an incredible guy and held my hand through most of the process.

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