Used Car With Very High Roadtrip Miles…

[Hakju]

This may sound preposterous, but I’m looking at a ’97 Accord right now with 180200 miles on it.. I absolutely love everything about it, it’s the Special Edition and I’ve heard so many high mileage stories. My reason for this post is because I’d love to know if anyone can hit me up with some info on the risks of buying a used car with high roadtrip mileage. If it wasn’t for the roadtrips, I’d buy this in a heartbeat! Thanks guys.

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[Bluesnut]

It’s an aged car with high miles so any car like this is a gamble. If the car has been maintained at least halfway decent and depending upon the price I’d go for it if it passed a pre-purchase checkover with no major issues.

So what are they asking for it?

[Erin]

I have a 97 acura CL which is pretty much the same car. When I bought mine it had 261,000 miles, now up to 264.

If the engine and trans seem to be mechanically sound, I think even at 180,000 you would be fine.

Of course you will have to check things like the brakes, steering, suspension (ball joints especially). Those things wear out and no one ever checks them til something falls apart.
ONE thing – if the front brakes are almost worn, do NOT wait until they start chewing up the rotors before repairing. With just pads it is a typical brake job but if it needs rotors, I think it has those stupid “captive” ones which are a nightmare to deal with and real expensive to change at a shop. It isn’t like most rotors where you pull the caliper and the rotor almost falls off on it’s own.

And like I said about ball joints – they seem to like to go bad on Hondas/Acuras. probably because these two makes last long enough to actually wear them out, unlike some cars which are toast long before.

KBB prices these about $1,400’ish in good condition, 4 cylinder. Definitely worth that much. If you are willing to spend a little more on possible suspension parts that are probably about to break, you would have a nice ride.

BTW – the transmission stories, those applied mostly to the 99 to 03 honda/acura.

So then, put this car on your list of “seriously looking at”.

EDIT – Just so you know, it probably leaks some oil around the pan seal. Drive it, park it a bit, and if you notice a small oil spot, don’t freak out. Mine has leaked about a quart in 3,000 miles.

[Mike]

Put bluntly, Cars with high roadtrip miles are a lower risk than cars that have accumulated that mileage any other way.

It does wear the brakes and suspension less than racking up miles around town/city, but the real benefit of highway miles is reaped by transmission and engine.

Maintaining speed on the highway requires no gear changing and therefore no wear to the clutches. The torque converter is also locked up under that condition, which means there is no fluid wear. The clutches only wear during apply and release while changing gears, and the clutch material that is worn off during that becomes the dreaded “gum and varnish”. Highway duty is the easy life for a transmission.

[Hakju]

Thanks everyone, and $1800. @Summer_night, the stories I read was this generation; 1995-97 (98-02 Accords disgust me). I also found out that the ’97 transmissions were built to last.

With this much info, I only have so many things to be concerned about, but to sum it up, if you will, test driving it will tell me all the probs. I’ll make sure to inspect it before and after the drive. Could probably negotiate price because he’s selling ‘as is.’

There’s rust on the bottom right part of the driver’s side fender and along the bottom of the driver’s door. What could that mean?

[Ingvar]

It means you have rust problem. That’s it. Also check for leaking roof and windshield. Rust visible on the outside=much more inside.
Define “roadtrip miles”. I’ve heard many tellers selling cars for upsized price based on “HWY only” miles but thing is, you have to maintain continuous speed above 50mph for prolonged period of time to qualify for that definition. Sure, if the current owner was a sales guy traveling between cities on interstates ONLY – that qualifies. But if he was commuting “mostly on FWY”, traffic takes its toll on any car and is actually worse, than normal city driving.
Price is about right, based off craigslist. I’d offer $1500 and not a penny more. You WILL have to spend money on repairs.
Always remember:

GOOD CARS ARE KEEPERS. No one sells good cars.

[Lorrin Barth]

The rain that collects on door glass runs down the glass and falls inside the door. At the bottom of the door there are slots to let water out. Dust also collects on the glass and rain washes it down inside the door. Eventually the slots get plugged with mud and water collects inside the door. Then it rusts out.

[Erin]

[quote=”ukrkoz” post=123005]Price is about right, based off craigslist. I’d offer $1500 and not a penny more. You WILL have to spend money on repairs. Always remember:
GOOD CARS ARE KEEPERS. No one sells good cars.[/quote]

It is true you are going to have to maybe spend some money and/or effort on some repairs but if it rolls down the road, hits all gears, and doesn’t have any blatant problems, it will be worth the money.
Just when you buy it, either do a VERY honest inspection or have a shop do one. If you can completely inspect beforehand, all the better. Brakes, all suspension components, How does the trans fluid look (if automatic)… You will find some problems sure but if it isn’t serious like the transmission going out, steering wobbily, or the engine making stupid noises, the rest is not so bad.

For rust – that just means it is a Honda or Acura. Mine has rust below the gas door. My gas filler neck is made of rust. Will put in a good one when it isn’t freezing balls out

[Jerry Gilles]

Eric has a great video on buying a used car.

[Andrew Button]

The way I see it, if maintained its probably got some life left in it. A 1500 you don’t have alot to lose. I would also say on a car like this, its not something you want to sink labor into. If you can fix it yourself, cheaply, its probably worth it. If you drive it 20 k miles and it craps out, you have still gotten your moneys worth out of it. If you dump a bunch of mechanics labor in, you will lose your rear end on it.

[Author]

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