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Hello forum,
I just got back after a very hot and sweaty afternoon waiting for a tow truck after my car died while driving.
Thankfully the two truck was a front end lift tow instead of flat bed because I also discovered the car will not shift out of park!I was coming down off a long exit ramp and when all of a sudden the car just died, RPM’s dropped to 0, engine shut off but power/acc was still on.
Check engine light turned on immediately as soon as the engine cut power, and the CEL has been on ever since.
Car will not start, or switch out of Park, please help. I’m getting a lot of information that’s all over the place.
At the time the car died I still had oil pressure and was not overheating. Car just cranks endlessly.Where should I start troubleshooting, and any good steps/videos on it?
Vehicle: 1990 Acura Integra
Transmission: Auto
OBD-0
ATF fluid color: redish and at the right level (drain and fill done earlier this year)
Parts/service done in the past 3 years that might be relevant include: new fuel pump, main relay, fuel filter, distributor (aftermarket), NGK plugs, and Duralast wires, alternator (reman), starter (reman).I’ll check back regularly, feel free to ask any further questions! Thank you kindly for reading.
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Thanks a lot for replying, I don’t have access to the garage where the car is kept until tomorrow morning, but a new belt was installed about 2 years ago, with less than 20k miles on it, so I’m thinking that It’s not likely the belt, will definitely check it though!
Timing Belt,
Could also be:
Fault in fuel injection system, fuel pump, broken fuel line etc. (Do a fuel pressure check)Distributor could be loose causing the timing to change.
Agree ..
Start with the basics.
You state you installed an aftermarket distributor.
I’m by no means a Honda expert, but Eric and others have stated that many Honda after market distributors are a major cause if ignition system failures.
See if there are any fault codes. ( possible bad crank or cam sensor )
Then check for spark, fuel and compression.
Might also have the battery and alternator tested (low system voltage can cause all kinds of issues)spry some starting fuild in the intake after the filter… and see if you get any diffrence… if the car trys to start you probly have no feul getting to it… injectors/pump/fuel filter,regulator…. or if it doesnt have spark…. get a spark plug tester and check for spark and check if you have spark… check to see if your tac is moving when you try to start the engine…. it is a comman thing to see one of your timing sensors to not read anything and therfore you car will not have spark…. you need to check out FASTEC (Fuel,air,spark,timing,exhaust,compression) most likellly fuel or spark or timing is your problem
there is some one explaining it
Well, I think I found the problem! LOL
Aftermarket distributors are not the way to go… 🙁I still can’t get the car out of park, and cannot fully insert the key in the shift lock slot. Ideas?
Shift lock slot?
I’m going to assume you mean the ignition lock cylinder so just ignore this if I’m wrong.
How about your steering wheel column, is it locked in place? Try rocking the steering wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key.[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=170768]Shift lock slot?
I’m going to assume you mean the ignition lock cylinder so just ignore this if I’m wrong.
How about your steering wheel column, is it locked in place? Try rocking the steering wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key.[/quote]The shifter is stuck in Park, and the key will not enter the slot next to the shifter that’s made to release the lock, I have no idea how a distributor/rotor failure can be linked with a shift lock, especially since the car was in Drive when the rotor went out and turned off the engine.
The owners manual states to full insert the car’s key in the slot, I will try some compressed air tomorrow, and maybe some WD40?
See: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-myhP6tRv4U/hqdefault.jpg (Not the same car)
[quote=”Kenzo” post=170769][quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=170768]Shift lock slot?
I’m going to assume you mean the ignition lock cylinder so just ignore this if I’m wrong.
How about your steering wheel column, is it locked in place? Try rocking the steering wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key.[/quote]The shifter is stuck in Park, and the key will not enter the slot next to the shifter that’s made to release the lock, I have no idea how a distributor/rotor failure can be linked with a shift lock, especially since the car was in Drive when the rotor went out and turned off the engine.
The owners manual states to full insert the car’s key in the slot, I will try some compressed air tomorrow, and maybe some WD40?
See: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-myhP6tRv4U/hqdefault.jpg (Not the same car)[/quote]
I would recomand using powdered graphite not WD40… you can get them sometimes in a spray contanor but WD can mess up the tumblers…
I have to ask does your car have a push release to remove the key????
you can also take the whole tubmer system out if you the the key in it… you will have to take the covers out… and there are sometime a push button next to the key hole to remove the tumbler lock cylinder… if you want to have it rekeyed.. might will help you …. just somethign to check out… if that works you will have the whole lock tumbler and you can check out the tumbler to see if you can get one of the pins to move if it stuckhere is like what I was talking about if your confused…
might be diffrent on your car but ones I have done was a swich under the seterring cover right next to the key hole… you sometime have to remove the whole cover to get to it… but might help, good luck
now this is the tumbler not to be confused with the ingnition switch that is diffrent… so you might also have problems there too gettign the system stuck… uslly the tumbler turns my pushing a bar that moves the switch… alot of time the switch is by your knee’s or by your ankles area… you will probly see some rods go follow them and make sure they are not broken or stuck… because thats what I think your problem is in that area
I would recomand taking the tumbler out and taking it to a locksmith maybe pay something like $10 to have them remove the key and have them take a pick set and feel the tumbler pins and see if they move smothy,,, it will take a good locksmith like 5 mins to do it…
FYI I cant remember if the ingition or the door is 2 sided tumbler… one is and the other isnt but I forget wich is wich…Yes, it does have a “<– PUSH" marked in the plastic above the ignition switch. Thanks for the advice on the graphite powder too.
The interior of my car is mint even for It's age so I don't like the idea of pulling panels but I guess it can't be helped.
Just so we’re all on the same page, this is what I’m experiencing.
Maybe I blew a fuse when the distributor rotor went wobbly in the cap.
Also if I remember correctly I didn’t hear the click when pressing on the brake, initially I dismissed it since the brake lights still came on, and I was all caught up in the moment of being stranded, and waiting 5 hours for my insurance to find me a tow truck.I’ll keep you posted Rob, thank you kindly for taking the time to look up those videos on locks and tumblers!
usslly I see them as a phyical bar or cable doing it… but that one looks like its electrical control… most of them uslly the ones I have worked on is shifter in in the steering wheel not on the side… but try it maybe you have the elextrical ver
no problem man I have done those key tumblers before a few times and have taken the steering colum apart…. FYI if someone steals your car thats what you will have to do
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