Update: 97AcuraRL, OE Coolant, P0401 EGR, AC belt

[jenaflex]

1997 Acura RL, 3.5 V6, 4sp Auto Transmission, 174k mile

Just bought from a guy. He is 2nd owner who owned this car about half year. Overall, the car keeps well maintenance because 1st owner did maintenance at honda’s dealer.

1. AC compressor belt?

The guy (2nd onwer) didn’t mention the AC compressor belt missing when we made the deal. When I found out the AC belt was missing, he told me that he took off AC compressor belt to prevent AC kicks ON when using defrost (to save gas). I think he was lying. I found a paper of email in the service record folder. The email is about 1st owner’s selling this car. 1st owner mentioned in the email that AC went out in the long trip from his home to a new place (that is very close to my place).

I took it to two different big repair shops to check it. Both of their technician told me AC compressor is locked up. Then, my friend, who knows some car knowledge, help me to check the AC compressor when the car has NOT started. He said that he can turn the inner AC compressor clutch pulley(NOT outer belt pulley) about 1/3 turn and he feel harder to turn it over that 1/3-turn spot.

I wanna know if the inner clutch pulley should be able to be turned freely or not?

2. P0401 Code EGR inflow insufficient

The check engine light is ON when I was driving in the town today. I use a USB OBDII scan tool and get P0401 Code EGR inflow insufficient. I think it is not urgent problem and clean the code to see if it will back ON or not.

I searched Acura forum. Most likely, it comes from jammed EGR intake. It can be clean by DIY, but a lot of work to do.

The Ower’s Manual suggest to run 91 premium gasoline. I put half tank of 87 gas (quality gas station) and drove it for serval days (just in my town). I don’t know if it will affect EGR.

Today night, I put 89 in it.

3. Acura Anti-freeze

As I mentioned, no proof shows the 2nd owner’s service on this car and the 1st owner did a TB and water pump change at Honda dealer. So, if I assume they used honda brand anti-freeze coolant when TB and water pump service, now it is Honda coolant in the radiator and reservoir. The coolant in radiator looks green while the coolant in the reservoir looks a bit darker green. I was told by local honda dealer in my place that Honda Type II coolant is blue, which doesn’t match the coolant in my car. Now the coolant in the reservoir is close to MIN.

Is the old type honda coolant green? (TB and water pump service in 2011 in Florida)
Can I mix the old green with type II blue?
If I do the coolant service myself, do I have to flush out most of the old coolant instead of just Drain and Fill?
Do I have to use Honda typeII only?

Topic

[jenaflex]

I agree with u. Do u know how to flush the system to check if there is metal shavings in the line? Also, I am more worrying about expansion valve that is in the dash broad. How to check if I need to replace expansion valve or not. The expansion valve in the dash broad is really hard to get and need to remove the dash borad.

[ridinred24]

You dont need to flush the system. Once the system is recovered, remove both lines from the compressor and swap with a q tip. If there is black, metal debris in the suction line then the whole system is contaminated and will need to be flushed really well or replaced entirely.

Your car has 2 expansion valves. One on the high side hose going to the evaporator and one at the evaporator in the dash. Those evaporators are relatively easy to remove. You need to remove the blower unit then the evaporator will be right in your face. The only way to know if that needs to be replaced will be by checking the pressures once the compressor is replaced.

[Steve Jackson]

Is it possible to remove the clutch assembly without disconnecting the lines?

[ridinred24]

It might be tricky but you can give it a try. With the belt on the car you can remove the bolt that holds the clutch to the pulley and go from there. Snap rings hold the pulley to the compressor which would be tricky without at least removing the bolts for the compressor to gain some work room

[jenaflex]

is R12 compressor from Acura Legend interchangeable with R134a compressor on my 97 RL? (keep all the AC line on my RL and use RL’s dryer, etc…)

I am thinking to get a quality Denso R12 compressor instead of a no-name junk compressor.

BTW, do you know other model of Acura use same compressor as my 97RL? for example, integra, TL… those are easy to find in junk yard.

[jenaflex]

[quote=”ridinred24″ post=59078]You dont need to flush the system. Once the system is recovered, remove both lines from the compressor and swap with a q tip. If there is black, metal debris in the suction line then the whole system is contaminated and will need to be flushed really well or replaced entirely.

Your car has 2 expansion valves. One on the high side hose going to the evaporator and one at the evaporator in the dash. Those evaporators are relatively easy to remove. You need to remove the blower unit then the evaporator will be right in your face. The only way to know if that needs to be replaced will be by checking the pressures once the compressor is replaced.[/quote]

I removed old compressor. When I first loosened the low pressure hose from old compressor, there were quite bit R134 gas coming out. The release of gas lasted about 1 min. Then, when I took off the compressor, both channels going inside the compressor is shinny and clean without metal shavings. However, I can only turn the compressor a full turn, then “hit” a point that it is significantly harder to turn (by hand). Then, after this point, it can be turned another full turn and “hit” the same “harder” position again. Also, I use q-tip to check the low and high pressure hoses. The q-tips are just a little bit black (even it may be due to my dirty hand or touching dirty engine block). :S

I can take pictures of my hoses and compressor if it is helpful for you to address problem.

Thank you.

1. What is the possible condition of my compressor and the rest of AC system

2. Do I need to flush the system?
If I need to flush the system, which part that I can flush, which part that I cannot flush.

3. Is that possible to DIY flush (borrow air-compressor, gauges, flush-chemical bottle which attaches on the compressed air hose. )?

4. To flush correctly, should I disconnect different parts, such as pipes, condenser, evaporator, etc., and flush them separately?

5. My car has TWO expansion valves, ONE evaporator (which is in dash), ONE condensor, and ONE drier, am I correct?

[Bill]

I used green coolant with aluminum components for years. You just have to change it more often as the PH drops rapidly. I use “Global” coolant in everything but GM without any issues and it’s light yellow/green. Ford has used it for years with good success. For piece of mind use the recommended coolant.

The A/C compressor inner pulley part should turn but with some resistance as there are moving parts inside. Pistons compressing gas.

If you plan on having the A/C repaired try a belt on it to see if it works. If you have the system repaired you would need to buy a new belt anyway.

I would recommend using the octane rating the car is supposed to use. I agree with the others on the EGR issue.

[jenaflex]

Thank you. I found out the ex-owner was using type-2 blue coolant. So I use type-2 blue.

I have already put a AC belt on. When I turn on AC, it makes wired noise. So either compressor clutch or internal of compressor is bad.

EGR, I haven’t got time to work on that.

“I can only turn the compressor a full turn” I mean the inner one, not outer pulley.

[Author]

Replies