Update: 97AcuraRL, OE Coolant, P0401 EGR, AC belt

[jenaflex]

1997 Acura RL, 3.5 V6, 4sp Auto Transmission, 174k mile

Just bought from a guy. He is 2nd owner who owned this car about half year. Overall, the car keeps well maintenance because 1st owner did maintenance at honda’s dealer.

1. AC compressor belt?

The guy (2nd onwer) didn’t mention the AC compressor belt missing when we made the deal. When I found out the AC belt was missing, he told me that he took off AC compressor belt to prevent AC kicks ON when using defrost (to save gas). I think he was lying. I found a paper of email in the service record folder. The email is about 1st owner’s selling this car. 1st owner mentioned in the email that AC went out in the long trip from his home to a new place (that is very close to my place).

I took it to two different big repair shops to check it. Both of their technician told me AC compressor is locked up. Then, my friend, who knows some car knowledge, help me to check the AC compressor when the car has NOT started. He said that he can turn the inner AC compressor clutch pulley(NOT outer belt pulley) about 1/3 turn and he feel harder to turn it over that 1/3-turn spot.

I wanna know if the inner clutch pulley should be able to be turned freely or not?

2. P0401 Code EGR inflow insufficient

The check engine light is ON when I was driving in the town today. I use a USB OBDII scan tool and get P0401 Code EGR inflow insufficient. I think it is not urgent problem and clean the code to see if it will back ON or not.

I searched Acura forum. Most likely, it comes from jammed EGR intake. It can be clean by DIY, but a lot of work to do.

The Ower’s Manual suggest to run 91 premium gasoline. I put half tank of 87 gas (quality gas station) and drove it for serval days (just in my town). I don’t know if it will affect EGR.

Today night, I put 89 in it.

3. Acura Anti-freeze

As I mentioned, no proof shows the 2nd owner’s service on this car and the 1st owner did a TB and water pump change at Honda dealer. So, if I assume they used honda brand anti-freeze coolant when TB and water pump service, now it is Honda coolant in the radiator and reservoir. The coolant in radiator looks green while the coolant in the reservoir looks a bit darker green. I was told by local honda dealer in my place that Honda Type II coolant is blue, which doesn’t match the coolant in my car. Now the coolant in the reservoir is close to MIN.

Is the old type honda coolant green? (TB and water pump service in 2011 in Florida)
Can I mix the old green with type II blue?
If I do the coolant service myself, do I have to flush out most of the old coolant instead of just Drain and Fill?
Do I have to use Honda typeII only?

Topic

[college man]

The pulley on the ac should spin freely with no
power to the ac.if it does not.then the pulley
/ac is seized.You can either replace the ac compressor
or leave the belt off. p0401-eitherthe egr does not
work or the passages are clogged and need to be cleaned.

[jenaflex]

” The pulley on the ac should spin freely with no power to the ac ”

You mean the outer belt pulley or the inner pulley with clutch on it?

I know the EGR passages gunk is most likely the problem. If I ignore the EGR gunk, will it kill cat convertor or other stuffs?

Can I run 89 instead of 91 premium?

[college man]

You can try the 89 octane. but the motor was made for 91.

[fitone]

See this link for a detailed explanation for removing the upper intake and cleaning EGR passages:
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f29/diy-intake-manifold-removal-egr-cleaning-79886/

Your gas mileage will be reduced and you will probably have some hesitation, but cat will not be affected. EGR valves usually are not an issue with Honda/Acura. Clogged intake passages are most likely what is producing the CEL.

[jenaflex]

Update：

3. Acura Anti-freeze

As I mentioned, no proof shows the 2nd owner’s service on this car and the 1st owner did a TB and water pump change at Honda dealer. So, if I assume they used honda brand anti-freeze coolant when TB and water pump service, now it is Honda coolant in the radiator and reservoir. The coolant in radiator looks green while the coolant in the reservoir looks a bit darker green. I was told by local honda dealer in my place that Honda Type II coolant is blue, which doesn’t match the coolant in my car. Now the coolant in the reservoir is close to MIN.

Is the old type honda coolant green? (TB and water pump service in 2011 in Florida)
Can I mix the old green with type II blue?
If I do the coolant service myself, do I have to flush out most of the old coolant instead of just Drain and Fill?
Do I have to use Honda typeII only?

[college man]

If the coolant is green now.use the green coolant.
when your ready for the next coolant service.drain
the radiator and refill it with green coolant.In
the meantime.top off the over flow to max line level
after the car has sat over night.

[ridinred24]

If the clutch/inner pulley cant turn then the compressor is seized. I have seen this several times on the RL.

EGR: You dont have to remove the entire intake manifold. All you need to do is remove the EGR pipe that connects the egr valve to the manifold, then using drill bits, your hands and a flexible air nozzle to clean out the EGR port. You should be able to get a 3/8 drill bit through the hole. Start small and work your way up. Its not hard.

Coolant: In 2011 Hondas coolant was blue, they started using blue in 05 or 06. Green and blue can be mixed with no issues.

Fuel: There has been talk between me and several other techs of crappy fuel leading to EGR desposits. I would personall clean the port and run quality fuel. IE, chevron, shell and or 76

[jenaflex]

generic green coolant is bad to aluminum engine. I searched online, the old-style honda green coolant is 100% straight coolant, which is still a unique coolant. Someone says it is Organic Acid Tech coolant. While the blue honda type II coolant is 50/50 premixed only.

I plan to change coolant soon. the water pump service was in 2011 @ 160k miles. It hasn’t been changed for 2 years and now it is kinda close to MIN line in the reservoir.

[college man]

[quote=”jenaflex” post=51273]generic green coolant is bad to aluminum engine. I searched online, the old-style honda green coolant is 100% straight coolant, which is still a unique coolant. Someone says it is Organic Acid Tech coolant. While the blue honda type II coolant is 50/50 premixed only.

I plan to change coolant soon. the water pump service was in 2011 @ 160k miles. It hasn’t been changed for 2 years and now it is kinda close to MIN line in the reservoir.[/quote]

I don’t know where you read that green antifreeze is bad
for aluminum parts.If that were the case.All my cars should
have holes in them.Thats all I use.which is recommended.
As for using Honda coolant straight is a mistake.needs to
be 50/50 mix.other wise heat will not transfer correctly
and circulation will be poor. 🙂

http://prestone.com/products/antifreeze_coolant/product_list#product-378

[jenaflex]

I mean to say that old-style honda OE green coolant comes with 100% and need to be mixed with Distilled water. Most of (not all) green coolant contains silicates, which can deposit some stuff in the engine cooling line.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f4/coolant-blue-green-136148/

look the #5 replay with the pictures.

I think honda OE green coolant is different from generic green coolant. (correct me if I am wrong)

I read this post. Some say type II and honda old-style green are the same thing. Some say NOT.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2565925

[ridinred24]

Regardless of whats posted on that forum,green coolant wont hurt your engine. Your about due for a coolant change anyways. Draina it out and put in the good Honda stuff and be done with it.

[jenaflex]

honda type II (50/50) is kinda expensive in my local dealer, $19/Gal.

I think “college man” gave me an idea: as long as I use silicate free and quality coolant, such as Prestone and keep change coolant at regular basis like 2yr or 30k miles, my car should be fine on running non-honda coolant. Am I right?

[college man]

prestone should be fine.

[Steve Jackson]

Having a similar issue with my compressor. Found out that it’s the bearing in the clutch assembly that often burns out. You could replace the clutch assembly. But, if you want to save a few bucks you can just replace the bearing. The bearing can be replaced with a Santech MT2027 ($13). You will also need a clutch installation kit (Santech MT0985, $7) which includes the shaft key, snap ring, shims, etc.
Now, if only I can figure out how to pull the clutch assembly off while leaving the compressor on the car….it’s very tight. :unsure:

[ridinred24]

those compressors are one of the easiest ones to remove. It drops right out the bottom. I would reccomend having someone recover the system professionally and check for debris is the lines, this will tell you if your compressor failed internally or if the clutch burned up. In my experience at the dealership, 99% of the time the compressor has failed internally.

[Author]

Replies