- This topic has 8 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 2 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Caution this thread will cause you to o faster and save money!
Ever wonder what happened to your great horse power? Or at least the power your car use to have? Most of it is still there, hiding behind cracked rubber and leaking lines.
When you first buy a car it has plenty of spunk in it usually. However over time the power seems to fall slowly away, dragging with it your fuel economy. Here is my basket case and what I did to bring it way back to life.
Few years back I bought a 01 Mustang V6. Not the most powerful investment, however I was looking at it more as an investment into a project I always wanted to do. However I got in an accident that left me disabled, and so I have been really limited as to what I could do and when I could do with it. I was driving truck and another truck driver ran into my truck. 5 surgeries later, my right hand is clinically handicapped I guess you would say.
So one day the fuel pump went out. The challenge becomes alive. So I pull the fuel filter, plugged right up. Test the fuel pump, nothing. So I go get a SVT Focus pump that pushes a lot more fuel down those lines, and a new filter. Always there is something that causes the mechanical failure. So the filter looks like an original. Same with the pump. So I imagine due to not maint. the pump goes out.
Now, since I had some time on my hands and the car is still running rough. I find issues with the IACV. I replace it, and move on. Thinking about the lack of maint. I check the wires and plugs. Crap. So I go to replace them all. The plugs have so much build up on them that the metal arm is caked in this rock hard deposit from hell. All the plugs are like this. Sheesh, they never changed a plug.
I pull out the carb cleaner and start shooting all the vacuum lines. Almost every single one is leaking. What the heck???? So I go around and pull them all off and head to Autozone. Clamps, hoses, gasket material. I patch it all up. I pull the oil and nasty black burnt stuff comes out. Fresh oil and filter on the way. So it had an engine code which I fixed with the IACV. The TPS spring had sprung, so I got one of them.
A little bit of maint, and suddenly my car runs like better than new. I buy a SR CAI and bolt it up with no issues. It is a true CAI that goes in the fender and has a shield to block it off from the engine compartment.
I reset the computer for like the forth and last time, for a bit. I pull out of Autozone and slam that pedal to the floor. I go sideways across five lanes of highway and through a straight line for a bit. Prior to me working on it. This car barely could pass gas. My pick-up got as good mileage as this car. Now this car is getting really good mileage.
Your goal when it comes to your motor, free up horsepower. You do that by making sure everything is tight and right. Also by making sure you put parts in that motor and vehicle that take resistance away. High air flow. High fuel flow, low friction, lighter parts on internals creates less drag on the motor. Increasing compression, increasing timing and setting the timing of the cam, spark, and so on to run at the best output ratings you can create.
Fancy pants blue pretty plastic electrical line covering is not going to do it. Cheap ebay mods are not going to do it. If you watch Erics videos, just like any mechanic it takes a lot of time, money and effort to create a good running car. Takes even more to create one with more hp and performance.
No matter what build your dream. That ride you have is an extension of you and should be a sign of your proudest work. Just my two bits. Hope this helps. By the way. Just fixing my car cost me about $700 and about 100 hours of labor. Time and money you need to have.
-
Replies
-
The trick is not letting them fall into disrepair in the first place. Every car comes with a maintenance schedule in the owners manual yet few owners ever read that money saving book. All they see are service intervals that cost them money when in reality it extends the life of the vehicle.
True, they expect that they can run them into the ground and all will be fine I guess. As they get used up and older, their parts wear out, and things need to be replaced. Just because it still looks new in the car, does not mean it isn’t in mechanical trouble.
We also have to take into consideration the engineering of the vehicle as well. Pretty much everything built in the last 20 years will last 100,000 – 150,000
miles without too much trouble or expense but to make it to 300,000 is going to take a little more care and effort. Anyone who has been in the repair business know that some vehicles will be junk and just plain worn out by 180,000 – 200,000 miles. There will be a few from each manufacture that make the 300,000 mile club but that list is pretty short and even then only some models of each make will be in that group.I knew someone in Chevy Engineering, of course had ties in Ford engineering and they all admit to engineering failure. So that vehicles only last X amount of time before you need to replace them. Which includes all the things we spoke about as well. They used to engineer them to attempt to last longer. However, the techs were not seeing any more and the dealers began to scream. Typically a 70’s car would barely make it to 100k. Now cars are making it to 200k but with a lot of repairs. Interior plastic seem to be the first to fail and same with the seats and so on. Almost like it is clock work to ensure your miserable enough to buy a new car.
I have 3 cars. Chevy pick up 211k on it. Runs great. Interior is horrible. 2001 Mustang, Runs great, interior is fair 130k. 03 Jeep Liberty 180k Runs great looks great inside and out, I have put the most money into the Jeep on mechanical related items.I have heard similar reports that switches are tested for X amount of presses etc. I also had a Ford instructor tell me that most of their fuel pumps are good for about 150k. The next repair boom is going to be TPMS sensors as those items are starting to age out. I know I have had my share of those come through the shop.
I routinely work on vehicles that are 10-15 years old with 150k-200k on them. I have noticed that the Asian imports remain the most rattle free over the life cycle of the vehicle unless the car is severely neglected or abused.The Euro imports seem to have a lot of brittle plastic lines under the hood that seem to evaporate once they hit 100k
What surprises me the most is the Chevy LS engines that seem to last to 300k even though they are leaking coolant and oil all over the place.My fleet consists of a 1979 Chevy K 10 with 360k on it. My parents bought it new and my dad was also a professional mechanic.
My 1999 Chevy Blazer has 242k on it and other than the drivers door hinge pons needing replaced every few years it has cost me the least own
Over my wife’s 2000 grand caravan with 240k it has needed the most odd work to keep it on the road.My youngest car is a 1998 Subaru outback wagon. I picked it up for cheap with bad head gaskets at 130k I put it back together and have put 40k on it since the repairs. It is by far my favorite when it comes to working on. It is easy and parts are pretty cheap.
My sorry fleet consist of a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado with a 350 engine that was some how modified prior to me buying it for $700. At this point, the engine is like new still. Runs great never had an issue with it. AC is out. The drivers seat, heck the interior is just nasty. Guy that had is before me did not take care of it. He wanted to go fast (engine mods and a chip installed) great mileage as well I might add. However he really was a slob on the inside of the truck. 212,000 miles. Starts without worry anytime I turn the key.
Next my 01 Mustang LX 3.8 some what modified, Interior and exterior are both not so pretty. The engine took some work, but bow runs fine with ac or without. It handles like a racecar and I am about to make that portion even better. 130K on the car. It is interior wise better than the Chevy, but all the plastic is crap. Where as in the Chevy the plastic is sturdy yet.
Then my 04 Jeep Liberty, inside and out, like new. 180k on the engine, and I have been working on it on a regular basis. First radiator split, then water pump went out. Coil pack shorted out, valve cover gaskets, Idler pulley, and a transmission. Oh, power window regulators decided at the same time to die. Now I am having door locking issues I think I have several solenoids out on the rear gate and passenger front door. Vehicle looks new and drives like new. No rattles. Plastic is all 100% great condition again inside and out.
So if you like working on your vehicles and you thought of what I have here, get a Jeep. They look good forever and love to be revitalized with new engine and tranny parts.I am like you in many respects, I would rather work on my older cars than ever even think about getting a loan. The amount you save in payments, more than makes up for the pains that come with them generally.
I know exactly where you are coming from with the jeep. I worked at a Chrysler / Jeep dealer for a few years as a tech and all of those issues you had with your Jeep are the same on all of those Jeeps with similar mileage. I am surprised that you haven’t had to rebuild the rear diff yet.
My Subaru was also nasty inside. I was able to find a complete leather interior out of a salvage vehicle for a little over $200 and spent an afternoon installing it along with a nice in dash Nav/DVD system. Even the seats are heated now. My commute is a little over 100 miles a day so this thing is a perfect little commuter that is comfortable and gets decent fuel mileage and can handle a surprising amount of snow if equipped with proper winter tires.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.