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If the damage can’t be repaired easily you might buy a small hydraulic jack and a short piece of 2X6 oak board to keep in your car for using to lift the axle instead of the body. If the damaged part is on the rear, the front lift point may lift the rear off the ground as well.
If the wood solution does not work for you there is an Aluminum version available for many different makes and models.
I use them on my car when jacking to place stands.
I really appreciate the input. But my question should be reworded as to what can be dont to repair the jack points?
Is this rust damage, folded over or both?
Since the pinch points where the jack is placed contains multiple layers of steel, a good body shop is probably the best place to start to determine what a repair will cost.
Depending upon the cost of the repair(s) needed versus the value of the car, or if this is something you would want to attempt yourself using a small vise to try and straighten the pinch point(s). If the steel is folded over keep in mind the steel is stretched and will not be as straight as before the damage, although it should be possible to still use the OEM scissor jack after complete. It might also be necessary to put in a few pop-rivets to hold all the layers together to permit the jack to fit over the many layers of steel.
If the area is damaged due to lifting with a floor jack and folded over there is always the option to getting a $35 floor jack to put in the trunk.
What is the year, make and model of the vehicle?
Do you have pictures of the damage?
The ’74 Impala I drove in college had chrome bumpers so rusted away on the on the backsides there was no way I would trust using them to jack up the car. I carried a hydraulic bottle jack and some 4×4 lumber to rest the car on while changing a tire.
It isnt quite rust damage, but rather the jack point is splitting. It is hard for me to get a good picture, but the metal is just deformed out of place. http://imgur.com/wNm6uAM
I think I will get some lumbar and shape it around the mounting point from now on.
Any specific type of lumbar i should get?year 1992
manu toyota
car mr2
model baseBless you for keeping an MR2 on the road!
I have 2 myself, just great cars from a bygone era.My question, try to avoid the side lift points, I’ve never liked lifting on pinch welds myself, and the damage you’ve reported could EASILY have been done by a careless mech with a trolley jack.
You could try gently, bit by bit, straightening the pinch weld out by clamping some hard material to the front and back sides of the sill, working from undamaged pinch weld, overlapping a damaged area and tightening the clamps to help pull the bend out. Don’t try it with pliers by themselves as you’ll rip everything up and cause more damage!
It maybe that you don’t need to jack at that point ever again, as my MR2’s lift both wheels on the same side from either front or back jacking points – couple that with a trolley jack at the other points in the attached pic for the centre front & back areas and you may get away without using the bad point again….
Let us know how you get on as we jealously thing of Eric’s 2-post Bendpak whilst scrabbling around on the ground in the wind and wet and cursing! 🙂
Chris[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/31/359af22601c21ca09098b574e07ec434.jpg[/IMG]
I would suggest using a vise on the jack point(s) such as this one from Harbor Freight – http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-portable-carpenters-vise-95203.html to hold the different pieces of steel together.
1. Center the vise long edge over the jack point and tighten to squeeze the different pieces of steel together
2. Once together drill a couple of holes; one on each side of the vise large enough for the hardware to be used.
3. Install a stainless steel #8-32 screw, with flat washers on both sides and tighten a locking nut (nylon insert).
4. Remove the vise
5. Rotate the vise 90 degrees and install again short edge centered over the jack point.
6. Repeat drilling holes on each side of the vise and install hardware to keep the steel together.
7. Remove the vise.
With the steel held together with the screws/nuts this should permit use of the OEM scissor jack.
If desired use a rust neutralizer to slow the progression, prime and paint desired color.
Does this sound like a possible fix?
It is difficult to determine how deformed the area is with the picture provided.
@Chris
Thanks man. I own a 92 (5sfe), but in my small group of personal cars we also have a 91 with a 93 subframe (gen3 3sgte) and a 94 (gen 3 3sgte).This damage was actually from a previous owner. I lift right under the subframe for most of the work i do for the rear.
@Big
I was wondering, it is possible to go to a welder to weld it back together with a new sheet of metal wrapped around the original shape?
The hole drilling in my chassis just doesnt sound like the route i want to approach.Welding the steel back together would be the ideal repair.
I only suggest the drill and screw method as a DIY type of repair and have completed this on a friends car a few years back. They happened to drive over a high curb pulling out of a bank drive-thru and messed up the pinch weld under the passenger side. Since it was not a jack point I also added some 1″ x 1″ 90 degree angle aluminum on each side for additional rigidity.
Give an independent or muffler shop a try for the welding; they will need to remove any paint on the steel before welding. Since under the car any good primer and spray paint should do the job to hold rust at bay on the new welding.
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