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Work with the engine cold.
I would recommend getting a proper spark plug socket for the size of plugs you have. Whenever possible, I try to avoid using swivel/flex joints when dealing with spark plugs. At extreme angles and a moment of inattention, they can tilt the socket and damage the porcelain insulator.
When removing the plug boots, give them a little twist first. Pull the boots straight off, and pull by grasping the boot, not the wire.
Before installing the plugs, make sure the connector on the end of the insulator is screwed down securely.
When installing the plugs, thread them in as much as possible with your fingers first. It’ll avoid cross-threading, especially in aluminum heads.
When installing the boots, push down until there’s a definite “click”.
EDIT: With aluminum heads, here’s a tip from aircraft practice. Before installing the plugs, give the threads a very light smear of Milk of Magnesia. When the engine heats up, the liquid is steamed off and leaves behind a powdered chalky residue which acts as a dry lubricant and makes future plug removal easier.
People here will no doubt object to this, claiming it’ll hinder the plugs’ heat-shedding capabilities or screw up the installation torque. All I can tell you is that I’ve been doing this for decades without a single problem. If you feel the slightest bit doubtful, then don’t do it. It’s just a free tip for people to consider.
Thank you for the spark plug removal tips but the real problem I have is removing the 3 back plugs in this van ( dodge caravan 3.8 litre. easily. Looking underneath
the van it seems the exhaust is in the way and unless I was on a hoist its seems to be a reach therefore I am thinking working from the top. Any tips or tricks here would be helpful..Thanks again for any input.
When you go to put the plug wires in use a McDonalds straw fill the very end of it with dielectric grease and blow the dielectric grease into the metal part that grasps the top of your coil pack and/or plugs. This will make life a hell of a lot easier during removal for replacement next time.
I have used anti-sieze as well but, you also need to keep in mind some brands have their own dry lubricant put onto it. NGK is known for this. The milk of Magnesium I had never heard of before but, makes perfect sense and is a dry lubricant that will prob work better then anti-sieze.
Made replacing my dad’s plugs a 15min job the 2nd time and that is including getting the tools out.
Also regap the plugs and buy the wire style gap tools. The only time I do not do this is when they are a multiple ground electrode plug aka 2 or more bent pieces as it can be hard to gap those. I can tell you the 5mins doing that will drastically increase performance. Most plugs just come in a cardboard box no protection against shifting back and forth. From working in a big rig shop where we drive the things that bounce all over the place and from regapping them myself they are rarely gapped right if the single ground electrode.
Replacing the back plugs on that van is a pain. I found this from a quick online search, perhaps this information is useful to you?
http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2139104/1999-dodge-caravan-changing-the-rear-plugs
http://www.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_rear_spark_plugs_in_your_2000_Dodge_Grand_Caravan
[quote=”Rambo2130″ post=141283]Thank you for the spark plug removal tips but the real problem I have is removing the 3 back plugs in this van ( dodge caravan 3.8 litre. easily.[/quote]
This one is a little tricky when not on a lift as there are a lot of things to move out of the way. Other vehicles with transverse V6 engines require pulling the bolt out of the engine-side of the top motor mount and rolling the engine forward a couple of inches to allow tool access. Not so easy with this one. Here is the procedure from the service manual:Service and Repair
WARNING: The ignition cables should not be removed while the engine is hot. This could cause server injury/burns and can cause damage to the ignition cables .
CAUTIONS:
– Use extreme care when removing and installing the spark plug cables.
– The spark plug boot heat shield needs to be installed correctly on the boot before being installed on the engine (Fig. 1). If it is not installed correctly engine misfire would occur.
– Do not use pliers to pull the boot/heat shield assembly from the spark plugs. This will damage the shield assembly
– Note routing of secondary ignition cables before removing. Failure to route cables properly may result in radio interference, ignition cross fire, or ignition short to ground.NOTE: Keep plugs in order removed. A plug, that looks different from the rest, could be a problem indicator.
SPARK PLUG #3 AND #5
REMOVAL
Remove the resonator.
Remove intake strut to cylinder head bolt at cylinder head.
Loosen bolt for intake strut at intake.
Swing strut away.
Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break the seal with the plug and pull straight out, Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, heat shield or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
Remove spark plugINSTALLATION
Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
When installing the spark plug cables, make sure spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.
Install the cable into the retaining bracket.
Make sure that they are also attached to the rear retaining clip mounted on the rear of the intake manifold.
Swing strut back into place.
Install intake strut bolt to cylinder head at cylinder head.
Tighten bolt to intake strut at intake.
Tighten bolt at cylinder head.
Install the resonator.SPARK PLUG #1
REMOVAL
Remove the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.
Remove the 4 bolts from the upper half of the generator bracket.
Push the Generator rearward.
Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break its seal with the plug and pull straight out. Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
Remove spark plugINSTALLATION
Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
When installing the spark plug cables, make sure the coil or spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.
Pull Generator back into place.
Install upper Generator bracket with the 4 bolts.
Install the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.OTHER PLUGS
REMOVAL
Spray compressed air around spark plug to prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber.
Remove spark plug wire by grasping boot and turning 1/2 turn while pulling boot back in a steady motion.
Remove spark plug using socket with foam insert. INSPECT FOR:
Color of Deposits
Excessive Deposits
Electrode wear
Cracked or Damaged Threads Or Insulator
Worn or Bent Electrodes
Damaged GasketINSTALLATION
Start plug in cylinder head by hand, to prevent cross threading. CAUTION: Do not overtighten plugs, overtightening can distort plugs resulting in a changed gap.
Torque spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 Nm) .
Install secondary ignition cables on spark plugs, (be sure connectors are pushed onto plug completely).CAUTION: When replacing spark plugs because of a high speed miss condition; wide open throttle operation should be avoided for approximately 80 km (50 miles) after installation of new plugs. this will allow deposit shifting in the combustion chamber to take place gradually and avoid plug destroying splash fouling shortly after the plug change.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled.
CAUTION: The Platinum pads can be damaged during the measurement of checking the gap if extreme care is not used.
– Use only a taper gap gauge to check or reset gap (0.048-0.053 in.) Never force the gap gauge through the platinum pads. Only apply enough force until resistance is felt.
– Never use a wire brush or spark plug cleaner machine to clean platinum spark plugs
– Use an OSHA approved air nozzle when drying gas fouled spark plugs.
– If gap adjustment is required of platinum plug, bend only the ground electrode. DO NOT TOUCH the platinum pads. Use only a proper gapping tool and check with a taper gap gauge.CAUTION: Cleaning of the platinum plug may damage the platinum tip.
Ok guys, I looked at what I needed to do and I removed the alternator and the bracket that holds it in place. Next I remove the wind shield wiper arms, next I removed the wind shield wiper assembly. This allowed me to remove all the plugs from the back blindly I will say it worked I just did n`t want to remove any exhaust parts from under neath because they will break in my experience. Got er done as it is said. That`s it for the next 100k Thanks for the spark plug info. It helped.
I second the dielectric grease. I had always heard about it but never really bothered doing it. This past weekend I did the spark plugs on an Altima and the wires would not pop on to the plugs like they did on the old plugs and the wires required Hercules strength to remove from the plugs. Also when I put the wires on the new plugs they wouldn’t seat all the way no matter how hard I pushed down.
Over night I suspected the rubber was chaffing on the porcelain (it was a tight fit) so the next morning I went out and put a thin coating of dielectric grease on the rubber of the wire that slides over the porcelain and then the plug wire did seat all the way down and since it was now seating it gave off a good audible pop when it seated, totally sold on that grease now.
[quote=”cap269″ post=141356][quote=”Rambo2130″ post=141283]Thank you for the spark plug removal tips but the real problem I have is removing the 3 back plugs in this van ( dodge caravan 3.8 litre. easily.[/quote]
This one is a little tricky when not on a lift as there are a lot of things to move out of the way. Other vehicles with transverse V6 engines require pulling the bolt out of the engine-side of the top motor mount and rolling the engine forward a couple of inches to allow tool access. Not so easy with this one. Here is the procedure from the service manual:Service and Repair
WARNING: The ignition cables should not be removed while the engine is hot. This could cause server injury/burns and can cause damage to the ignition cables .
CAUTIONS:
– Use extreme care when removing and installing the spark plug cables.
– The spark plug boot heat shield needs to be installed correctly on the boot before being installed on the engine (Fig. 1). If it is not installed correctly engine misfire would occur.
– Do not use pliers to pull the boot/heat shield assembly from the spark plugs. This will damage the shield assembly
– Note routing of secondary ignition cables before removing. Failure to route cables properly may result in radio interference, ignition cross fire, or ignition short to ground.NOTE: Keep plugs in order removed. A plug, that looks different from the rest, could be a problem indicator.
SPARK PLUG #3 AND #5
REMOVAL
Remove the resonator.
Remove intake strut to cylinder head bolt at cylinder head.
Loosen bolt for intake strut at intake.
Swing strut away.
Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break the seal with the plug and pull straight out, Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, heat shield or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
Remove spark plugINSTALLATION
Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
When installing the spark plug cables, make sure spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.
Install the cable into the retaining bracket.
Make sure that they are also attached to the rear retaining clip mounted on the rear of the intake manifold.
Swing strut back into place.
Install intake strut bolt to cylinder head at cylinder head.
Tighten bolt to intake strut at intake.
Tighten bolt at cylinder head.
Install the resonator.SPARK PLUG #1
REMOVAL
Remove the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.
Remove the 4 bolts from the upper half of the generator bracket.
Push the Generator rearward.
Grasp the spark plug boot/shield assembly as close as possible to the spark plug. Twist the boot/ shield assembly slightly to break its seal with the plug and pull straight out. Do not use pliers, pull on the ignition cable, or pull the spark plug boot at an angle. This could damage the spark plug insulator, terminal, or the insulation. Wipe spark plug insulator clean with a dry cloth before installation.
Remove spark plugINSTALLATION
Install spark plug and tighten to 28 Nm (20 ft lb) .
When installing the spark plug cables, make sure the coil or spark plug insulator and terminals are fully seated.
A click sound should be heard or felt when the terminals are properly attached.
Pull Generator back into place.
Install upper Generator bracket with the 4 bolts.
Install the accessory drive belt, refer to Cooling System.OTHER PLUGS
REMOVAL
Spray compressed air around spark plug to prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber.
Remove spark plug wire by grasping boot and turning 1/2 turn while pulling boot back in a steady motion.
Remove spark plug using socket with foam insert. INSPECT FOR:
Color of Deposits
Excessive Deposits
Electrode wear
Cracked or Damaged Threads Or Insulator
Worn or Bent Electrodes
Damaged GasketINSTALLATION
Start plug in cylinder head by hand, to prevent cross threading. CAUTION: Do not overtighten plugs, overtightening can distort plugs resulting in a changed gap.
Torque spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 Nm) .
Install secondary ignition cables on spark plugs, (be sure connectors are pushed onto plug completely).CAUTION: When replacing spark plugs because of a high speed miss condition; wide open throttle operation should be avoided for approximately 80 km (50 miles) after installation of new plugs. this will allow deposit shifting in the combustion chamber to take place gradually and avoid plug destroying splash fouling shortly after the plug change.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled.
CAUTION: The Platinum pads can be damaged during the measurement of checking the gap if extreme care is not used.
– Use only a taper gap gauge to check or reset gap (0.048-0.053 in.) Never force the gap gauge through the platinum pads. Only apply enough force until resistance is felt.
– Never use a wire brush or spark plug cleaner machine to clean platinum spark plugs
– Use an OSHA approved air nozzle when drying gas fouled spark plugs.
– If gap adjustment is required of platinum plug, bend only the ground electrode. DO NOT TOUCH the platinum pads. Use only a proper gapping tool and check with a taper gap gauge.CAUTION: Cleaning of the platinum plug may damage the platinum tip.
[/quote]
Hey Cap269,
You might consider putting a copy of this in the “How-to” Forum and label it accordingly. It may be helpful to some lucky Dodge Caravan 3.8 L owner replacing that rear bank/head of plugs in the future.
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