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Quoted From Toxic:
well, i popped the wheel off and indeed the caliper is stuck again and it has eaten off the entire brake pads (2nd time I have had to replace the pads on the driver’s side) been bleeding them using a “1 man brake bleed kit” will check the codes here in a little bit. Looks like might be an all nighter on it..lol. gotta have it going by the 18th cause i’m not gonna miss my vacation even if i end up having to rent a car.so you have replaced the caliper before? if so your problem mite be in the rubber brake hose going to the caliper. some times them come apart or swell in side letting fluid go only one way and not back. im sure after burning threw a brake pad like that you will want to replace the rotor to. i would advice replacing both rotors and pads at the same time to keep braking even. make sure to check the other side aswell for a sticky caliper or a bad brake hose. be sure to remove rust and such from the contact locations of the caliper. while you have it jacked up for the brake work you mite aswell check tie rods and ball joints for any slop.
you probably have a stuck caliper making it pull while braking. jack up the left side and feel for a brake drag. you may have to push the brakes once to make it grab enough to notice it draging and not relesing right away like it should. do you have a pulsing brake peddle while braking? if so that would point to a warped rotor aswell. after we find and fix this issue then will see if the wobble goes away. if not will dig deeper for that issue.
Under the dash board there is an electrical block with nothing plugged into it. there are 2 rows of terminals. on the top row on the right is terminal “a”. terminal “b” is the second one in from the right. terminal diagram labeling is like this from left to right.
top row,”F”, “E”, “blank”,”C”,”B”,”A”
bottom row “G”,”H”, “blank”,”blank”,”blank”,”blank”
take a small piece of wire and jump terminal “A” and “B”. i found an unfolded paper clip works well. with the terminals jumped, turn the key to the on position.(DO NOT START ENGINE) with the key on, the service engine light will start flashing codes. count the flashes. it will repeat each code 3 times before moving on to the next code. your first and last code will be a code 12. that is just the test code. it lets you know you did it right. you will see 1 flash with a short pause then 2 flashes. after you see that 3 times, your next code will be your trouble codes. when you see code “12” again, there are no more.after you check and get all that info will move on to the rest of the issues haha let us know what you find.
well, i popped the wheel off and indeed the caliper is stuck again and it has eaten off the entire brake pads (2nd time I have had to replace the pads on the driver’s side) been bleeding them using a “1 man brake bleed kit” will check the codes here in a little bit. Looks like might be an all nighter on it..lol. gotta have it going by the 18th cause i’m not gonna miss my vacation even if i end up having to rent a car.
alright, update! just put on the brand new caliper and saw in the end of the line some old brake fluid gunk so i flushed the system and the brakes have improved 10Xs, sadly while replacing that I unplugged the battery so codes are null and voided off now..lol..will have to drive around for a bit and see if the check engine light comes back, but the shaking has stopped and my acceleration has gotten back to where it should be.
As far as the front end I replaced all the tie rods and ball joints i replaced those myself when i first got the truck, as the entire system was in very poor shape and almost to the point of total failure. The guy that had this truck previous to me actually had the driver’s side tie rod wrapped in duct tape! Was deffo a first for me..LOL
well thats good. thanks for the update. when ever you get the CEL back just let us know. will be happy to help.
did your brake light go out after all this? if not check into the parking brake switch. wiggle it or even unplug it and see if the light goes out. does this truck have 4 wheel ABS?
the brake light is still solid, I’m figuring it as the sensor has gone out. Pretty common for these trucks for those to fail. and not sure if this make does or not to be honest.
Quoted From Toxic:
the brake light is still solid, I’m figuring it as the sensor has gone out. Pretty common for these trucks for those to fail. and not sure if this make does or not to be honest.
personally i would ignore it. it is pretty common for that light to come on in them year of chevys. some times it is just the parking brake switch as that light warns you that it is set. but it is also tied into the ABS. the brakes will function anyways. just not the ABS. i like it better that way tho.
well, as far as the light just burning I think I can deal with it considering it runs strong even with over 288k miles on it. lol
If the brake light is on and the parking brake is not engaged along with the brake light switch not being depressed, usually that is a sign of a imbalance in the hydraulic system.
There should be a electrical connector going to the master cylinder, If you unplug this and the brake light goes out, then you have narrowed your search down. You could try bleeding all 4 brakes as well as tapping on the master cylinder incase the plunger is stuck.
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