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Trying to replace the clutch on my car but I cant seem to get the trans to break free from the bellhousing. I have all 8 bolts removed, shifter out, wires free etc. The transmission is a Tremec T-56 and the aluminum housing seems fused to the belhousing and I dont know how to free it without damaging something by hitting it with a hammer. I know the alignment pins can cause difficulty when removing, but usually people are able to see at least a slight separation – ive got nothin.
Advice? The pry locations are hard to reach and I dont want to crack it.
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try a rubber mallet. or a deadblow hammer. the rubber one you can wail on it a bit more, but try just tapping it on both sides.
I tried shaking it hard from side to side at the output shaft – moved the whole trans/engine a bunch but never broke. Guess Ill try prying and hitting with a deadblow at the same time.
The pilot bearing maybe stuck on the input shaft of transmission creating this problem.Unbolt the trans from the bellhousing,the try working it out with a couple of pry bars.
Finally got it off with some cursing and a nice set of pry bars. I had to do a lot more prying than I felt comfortable with on an aluminum housing, but once those alignment pins broke free it came out. A little PB Blaster helped loosen the corrosion. The bellhousing was stuck to the block as well and was harder to get out because the pry slots were even harder to get to. Starter wasnt in the way on this one – faces away from where I am working and is much smaller than days past.
Anyone know if I am supposed to grease the splines of the input shaft before it goes back together? What kind of grease?
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If you are trying to replace a clutch by detaching the trans from the bellhousing, don’t you think you should detach the engine from the bellhousing?Yes, and thats what I did. Had to separate the trans from the bellhousing first so that I could get to the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine block. Plus, with the dual mass flywheel on my car, its impossible to get the bellhousing off with the trans still attached – you need to twist, angle and wiggle the bellhousing to clear the flywheel.
The trans being stuck to the bellhousing was just a problem along the way. As were heat welded exhaust flange bolts and a corroded driveshaft flex disc that would not let go. Ah the joys.
[quote=”bacon” post=34679]Finally got it off with some cursing and a nice set of pry bars. I had to do a lot more prying than I felt comfortable with on an aluminum housing, but once those alignment pins broke free it came out. A little PB Blaster helped loosen the corrosion. The bellhousing was stuck to the block as well and was harder to get out because the pry slots were even harder to get to. Starter wasnt in the way on this one – faces away from where I am working and is much smaller than days past.
Anyone know if I am supposed to grease the splines of the input shaft before it goes back together? What kind of grease?[/quote]
This is not uncommon. when you mix two different metals ( aluminum bell housing and iron engine block ) it can cause a reaction leading to a corrosion build up. a thin coat of anti-sieze between the two metals should help stop this. I would not use any lube on the input shaft as you risk contaminating the clutch disc.
A SMALL amount of high temp lithium grease on the input shaft is good practice, in fact I treat most clutches in this way.
Thanks for the tip on the PB Blaster. Half a can of that stuff, wait, screwdriver and hammer did the trick. Now that they’re separated, on reinstall I’m going to mount the bell housing first, then the transmission. A tip here is to use a couple of long blots with their heads cut off to act as guide pins for the transmission when you go to reinstall the unit. (T5, 1995 Sonoma).
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