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Hello, I need help with a 4l60-e transmission in a 2000 Silverado. Just recently I had started having a unique problem. When it’s 20 degrees out in the morning, I start the truck and let it warm up. When it’s cold out like this, the trans goes 1-2, and then from 2nd to 3rd it delays (always at 2500rpm) it shift into 3rd. no harsh shift just normal. When it’s 35 degrees or so out it does not do it at all. It stops when the trans gets warm. It really only does it down my road at my house and when I get to the stop sign at the end (about 1.5 miles) it does perfect. It does not slip at all. I have crisp shifts, on time, across the board. I had it diagnosed at two places and one said it’s fine. The other said it’s a sticking valve. I talked to one other person who said it could be a temp sensor. Does this sound correct? What about the throttle pressure cable? Or the modulator? I have no trans codes or engine lights/codes. I am at wits end with this thing. Do I need the valve body cleaned? trans rebuild? It an older unit and I don’t really know the history of trans fluid changes. I don’t want it to start slipping if I pull the pan and put new fluid. Fluid is red and appears clean.
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[quote=”2000SilveradoGuy” post=86907]Hello, I need help with a 4l60-e transmission in a 2000 Silverado. Just recently I had started having a unique problem. When it’s 20 degrees out in the morning, I start the truck and let it warm up. When it’s cold out like this, the trans goes 1-2, and then from 2nd to 3rd it delays (always at 2500rpm) it shift into 3rd. no harsh shift just normal. When it’s 35 degrees or so out it does not do it at all. It stops when the trans gets warm. It really only does it down my road at my house and when I get to the stop sign at the end (about 1.5 miles) it does perfect. It does not slip at all. I have crisp shifts, on time, across the board. I had it diagnosed at two places and one said it’s fine. The other said it’s a sticking valve. I talked to one other person who said it could be a temp sensor. Does this sound correct? What about the throttle pressure cable? Or the modulator? I have no trans codes or engine lights/codes. I am at wits end with this thing. Do I need the valve body cleaned? trans rebuild? It an older unit and I don’t really know the history of trans fluid changes. I don’t want it to start slipping if I pull the pan and put new fluid. Fluid is red and appears clean.[/quote]
Hi,
My 2000 accord tranny failed completly so I looked into tranny problems…If the problem is happening only when cold and no other time, could be that your fluid is NOT maintainly proper vescosity in cold, its either cause of old fluid ( not neccesary dirty tho ) or poor choice of fluid. Engines can have hard time starting and get going too in cold condition. Unfornatley, you cant change the ATF as you wish .
If you drive a good amount, and you dont get check engine light or unpleasant shifting. I would just let it be unless you plan on taking the car on road trip…
My accord had the common shifting problem for atlease 3 months before I got a check engine light.
I only decided to bother with it because I was going on a trip.As you know , changing the ATF after a while could do more bad than good. sometimes kills the tranny.
Only option left is having an inline filter, wix makes one for about 15 bux on amazon.If the fluid color looks good, and stays consistence I would let it be.
Cheers.
Given that you don’t have any codes and it only happens when cold, it’s likely a mechanical issue. No one can say for sure exactly what’s wrong until they do a pressure test when the problem occurs. This is how automatic transmission diagnosis gets done. We can guess here all day long, but until you get some data to back up a theory, you’re just shooting in the dark. Given that it seems to be mechanical in nature, perhaps a fluid/filter change or additive might help.
More info in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
Sounds like normal behavior. Most of the cars I’ve had with automatic transmissions electronically hold back shift points, sometimes drastically, when temperatures are colder to warm things up faster and reduce wear. In addition, ATF is a lot thicker at 20*F than operating 150-180*F. You would have to hook it up to an advanced scanner to see if it is commanding it to shift and the valve is sticking or if the computer just waits longer under those conditions.
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