- This topic has 12 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 2 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
It has been my policy to change the brake fluid in my cars every 2 years without regard to mileage.
We just bought my wife a new 2013 Highlander, and I’ve been familiarizing myself with its maintenance protocols. I noticed that Toyota’s service intervals NEVER call for the brake fluid to be changed. Some of the guys on the Toyota Nation forum I joined are claiming that the Highlander’s brake system is so tightly sealed that you don’t have to worry about the fluid absorbing water over time, and therefore it’s good for the life of the vehicle.
Thoughts?
-
Replies
-
Here is my humble opinion…. Just because something doesn’t have a service interval, doesn’t mean it is lifetime…. A good example is a in-tank fuel filter or a timing chain… Toyota doesn’t have a service interval for in-tank fuel filters, but that does not mean it may not need changed sometime in its lifetime.
A brake fluid refractometer can let you know the “wetness” of the fluid… If you very concerned about this, then use one to periodically check your fluid. It can save you time and money if you are changing out fluid that does not really need replaced… Plus it can give you peace of mind if you are very anal about such services….
-Karl
I’ve owned 4 Camrys over the years, and owned them from new for about 15 years before road salt junked them.
Somewhere between 8 to 10 years I flushed their brake’s fluid, and the original fluid came out perfectly clean making me think I was wasting my time. No evidence of water or corrosion products in the fluid.
For my CRV and Accords, ditto.
For my motorcycles, the fluid is fouled inside of two years because of the aluminum parts that is sees.
Cost of brake fluid change: $8 and about 30 minutes of your time.
Cost of repairing corrosion damage to the system: $1,000 and up.
Any questions?
Just for the record, you cannot visually tell how much moisture that brake fluid has absorbed by just a visual inspection… Yes, you can tell when it is contaminated (brown/black) due to rust or eroded seals, but color and look alone will not tell you how much water has been absorbed…
-Karl
[quote=”grg8888″ post=77532]Cost of brake fluid: $8
Cost of repairing corrosion damage to the system: $1,000 and up.
Any questions?[/quote]
While I understand what you are saying, I believe it is an oversimplification to ‘just do it’. As you probably know, modern cars with ABS often require dealer specific or high end scan tools scan tools to reset the ABS system after a flush.
On an old Toyota Corolla with no ABS… I agree, a simple backyard job… A 2000 ERA GM or Honda with a computerized bleed procedure, less so… Unless you have a TECH2 or MODIS sitting around your house…
That is why it is good to know the condition of the fluid before a flush and do when necessary….
JMHO
-Karl
Stay on the two year change program or pick up these
test strips for a more accurate fluid condition.I don’t quite follow your logic. If you have a complex ABS system, that should be MORE reason to do fluid changes. No matter how complex the ABS system, there always is an open path through the system which you can flush about 92% of the fluid. That will flush everything except the back-end pressurized ABS fluid part of the system, and usually that is flushable through a separate ABS bleed screw. At least that has been my experience with Honda and Acura cars up to 2003. These systems are designed to be as foolproof and fail-safe as is humanly possible, so you’re unlikely to make things worse by doing a flush. Now there may be some systems where doing a flush sets off some hard error codes, but I’d get rid of such a car ASAP just on general principles.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=77533]Just for the record, you cannot visually tell how much moisture that brake fluid has absorbed by just a visual inspection… Yes, you can tell when it is contaminated (brown/black) due to rust or eroded seals, but color and look alone will not tell you how much water has been absorbed…
-Karl[/quote]
Thanks for pointing that out Karl, many people go by looks which is a awful way to do it.
I agree with Ron Ananian when it comes to this subject, if there is no schedule and you don’t have access to a brake fluid tester than goe with every 2 years.
[quote=”grg8888″ post=77538]I don’t quite follow your logic. If you have a complex ABS system, that should be MORE reason to do fluid changes. No matter how complex the ABS system, there always is an open path through the system which you can flush about 92% of the fluid. That will flush everything except the back-end pressurized ABS fluid part of the system, and usually that is flushable through a separate ABS bleed screw. At least that has been my experience with Honda and Acura cars up to 2003. These systems are designed to be as foolproof and fail-safe as is humanly possible, so you’re unlikely to make things worse by doing a flush. Now there may be some systems where doing a flush sets off some hard error codes, but I’d get rid of such a car ASAP just on general principles.[/quote]
Agree, I understand where Karl is coming from, but usually a scan tool is only needed when trying to get the air out of a system. As long as the person doing the flush does not introduce air into the system they should be perfectly fine.
The way I do it at the shop is like Eric showed in i=his video. I suction most of the fluid out of the master and refill with fresh, than I go from the longest line to the shortest and use the “cup and hose” method to flush out the old fluid
Brake fluid test strips? What will they think of next?
These strips check for copper oxides in the brake fluid, which might be a sign of corrosion. But then again, there is a long history of gadgets designed to “prove” that a car needs servicing. Shops used to have these huge micrometer gadget with foot-long indicator needles that would show that your ball joints were loose. And there used to be tube testers in drug stores that would show that most tubes were marginal to dead.
[quote=”grg8888″ post=77550]Brake fluid test strips? What will they think of next?
These strips check for copper oxides in the brake fluid, which might be a sign of corrosion. But then again, there is a long history of gadgets designed to “prove” that a car needs servicing. Shops used to have these huge micrometer gadget with foot-long indicator needles that would show that your ball joints were loose. And there used to be tube testers in drug stores that would show that most tubes were marginal to dead.[/quote]
I use a electronic tester that tests for water content.
I use a small pen type tester for brake fluid. I have been shocked over the amount of moisture in brake fluid in almost new cars. We have a fleet of Dodge Caravans that we service from 2008 to present and some of the 2012s and 2013s have as high as 15% moisture content in the fluid while some of the older ones are less than 5% moisture.
I guess if the fluid was installed at the factory on a humid day,,who knows.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.