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Toyota Corolla Emissions porblem – recurring

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    Topic
  • #456075
    potatpotat
    Participant

      Hi,

      I have a toyota corolla, 95, 1.8 L engine. I have been having emissions problem.
      (To make it clear, it has failed atleast 7 times during the last 10 years).
      My CO and HC are high (~1.6 2.1 % and ~160 -240 ppm) respectively. I have my mechanic
      take care of the issue. Once he replaced the MAP sensor, and rest of the times, what he does
      is, he increases the idle to ~1600 rpm and then the vehicle passes the emission, and then
      set it to ~700 rpm (I think this is the factory recommended idle rpm). It is okay as I can live with it,
      but was wondering whether there is an indication of something else that is causing the problem?

      In the past several years, the vehicle has some of its emissions components changed:
      O2 sensor, MAP sensor, EGR valve, among the many.

      I appreciate your valuable comments or things that I could try to help this problem
      on a permanent basis.

      Thank you very much.

    Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 17 total)
    • Author
      Replies
    • #456076
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        for high Hc is usually from incomplete combustion. give the car a tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor and ignition coil

        high Co is a fuel mixture problem vacuum leaks will cause this condition(cracked broken vacuum lines,gaskets,boots) also clogged injectors
        or restricted fuel filter and or pump. I would suggest a tune up with the parts listed above. I would also clean the fuel injectors as Erics video shows
        and clean out the throttle body or carberator with throttle body or carb spray to melt the built up carbon keep us posted. C8-)

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjib … plpp_video throttle clean

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSg … plpp_video vacuum leaks

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAj … plpp_video power balance test

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fizKtru7 … plpp_video move a vehicle

        #456077
        Josh3448Josh3448
        Participant

          Yes Im with College Man on this, these are also the steps that I would take to start addressing this concern.

          #456078
          MattMatt
          Participant

            Any check engine light on?

            #456079
            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
            Keymaster

              Quoted From college man:

              for high Hc is usually from incomplete combustion. give the car a tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor and ignition coil

              high Co is a fuel mixture problem vacuum leaks will cause this condition(cracked broken vacuum lines,gaskets,boots) also clogged injectors
              or restricted fuel filter and or pump. I would suggest a tune up with the parts listed above. I would also clean the fuel injectors as Erics video shows
              and clean out the throttle body or carberator with throttle body or carb spray to melt the built up carbon keep us posted. C8-)

              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjib … plpp_video throttle clean

              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSg … plpp_video vacuum leaks

              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAj … plpp_video power balance test

              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fizKtru7 … plpp_video move a vehicle

              +1

              Those older systems are a bit ‘slow’ but as stated high HC and CO would indicate unburned fuel and incomplete combustion, also if your engine burns oil these numbers will also go up so if you notice a lot of blue smoke when you accelerate this found indicate that your engine is worn out and possibly loosing compression and burning oil.

              #456080
              potatpotat
              Participant

                Thank you all for your valuable comments.

                My spark plugs, wires, rotor caps and oxygen sensor were replaced about 3 years ago.
                I understand the ‘changed parts’ do not mean anything as these components can go
                bad any time. MAP sensor was changed ~4 years ago.

                No check engine light or codes.

                My engine burns little oil as I have to top the engine oil atleast once with 1/2 quart between
                the oil changes (3000 miles).

                As per my mechanic, the vehicle is smooth and he has not detected any leaks. (On another
                note, my mechanic’s gas analyzer is down. His SUN MGA 1400 gas analyzer internal tubing
                has gone bad, still waiting for the vacuum tubing diagram for it).

                My car just failed the emissions test – 160 ppm HC and 2.0% CO. This was with a 1400-1450 idle
                speed that was set by my mechanic.

                Let me try to follow the steps as per your listing. For the fuel injector cleaning, I will ask my
                mechanic.

                I will keep you posted. Thanks a lot. In the meantime if anyone has any additional comments,
                please post. Thanks and have a great week!

                #456081
                EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                Keymaster

                  That idle speed is pretty high, twice what it should be in fact, and may be masking another problem or even causing the emissions failure, with an idle that high the throttle is piratically part way open which would throw off the idle numbers because it would read as part throttle numbers and not idle numbers. It’s probably not a bad idea to check for vacuum leaks as well as a lean condition can actually cause elevated HC and CO.

                  #456082
                  potatpotat
                  Participant

                    Thanks, Eric.

                    Yes Eric, you are correct. The recommended idle for Corolla 95 (automatic) is 700-750 rpm.
                    My mechanic has set the idle speed to 1400 rpm (he has done this in the past to get
                    through the emissions test), and according to him ~1400 rpm would give a lean mixture
                    (I have a hard time understanding this, so I took his word).

                    I will check again for vacuum leaks and see whether I find any indications.

                    Thanks for many wonderful videos on youtube. When I first started getting my
                    hands ‘Dirty’, (2004) there were not many videos on car repairs.

                    By the way, do you know someone who owns a SUN MGA 1400 modular analyzer
                    (now the company is taken over by SNAPON)? I am trying to get the vacuum tubing
                    diagram for the analyzer so that it is easy to check the emissions at my mechanic’s
                    place. (I got a manual for MEA 1400, but that’s not the one I am looking for).

                    Thanks!

                    #456083
                    EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                    Keymaster

                      Band aids are not fixes and when it comes to passing emissions you need to fix not patch because it’s not just the emissions that you are addressing but also your fuel mileage and these days I’m sure that is a concern in addition to passing the test. BTW I used to perform emissions testing in PA and if a car came in with a high idle like yours it was an automatic fail.

                      I’m afraid that I don’t know anyone that owns that machine however you may be able to find replacement parts through Snap-on or perhaps on ebay.

                      #456084
                      potatpotat
                      Participant

                        Thanks, Eric.

                        I agree with you. I need to get this problem taken care of.
                        Will update as soon as I am making any progress.

                        Thanks!

                        #456085
                        potatpotat
                        Participant

                          Hi All,
                          A quick update, I got the SUN MGA 1400 tubing diagram and the analyzer is working fine.

                          Hooked up my car to the analyzer and looked at the exhaust numbers, it was a little rich and my
                          mechanic checked most of the things, and it seemed to be okay. Now he plans to test the emission
                          components one by one and see where the problem is. Will keep you posted. We had a spare MAP
                          sensor, and looks like MAP is not the problem. Thermostat is also working fine. I have pulled parts
                          from an old car the last weekend, hopefully that helps us to trouble shoot the problem.

                          Thank you!

                          #456086
                          college mancollege man
                          Moderator

                            Quoted From college man:

                            for high Hc is usually from incomplete combustion. give the car a tune up plugs,wires,cap,rotor and ignition coil

                            high Co is a fuel mixture problem vacuum leaks will cause this condition(cracked broken vacuum lines,gaskets,boots) also clogged injectors
                            or restricted fuel filter and or pump. I would suggest a tune up with the parts listed above. I would also clean the fuel injectors as Erics video shows
                            and clean out the throttle body or carberator with throttle body or carb spray to melt the built up carbon keep us posted. C8-)

                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjib … plpp_video throttle clean

                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSg … plpp_video vacuum leaks

                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAj … plpp_video power balance test

                            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fizKtru7 … plpp_video move a vehicle

                            have you tried any of the above to see if your emission readings come down?

                            #456087
                            dreamer2355dreamer2355
                            Participant

                              Is your vehicle OBD2? Id be looking at fuel trim numbers too if it is.

                              #456088
                              EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                              Keymaster

                                Quoted From dreamer2355:

                                Is your vehicle OBD2? Id be looking at fuel trim numbers too if it is.

                                95 is pre OBDII which started in 96.

                                On those older vehicles once you have your tune up stuff taken care of and you’re sure you don’t have any vacuum leaks the next step I would often take if the vehicle still failed was to replace the O2 sensor, I know you say you replaced yours but back then it was almost like a maintenance item every 60K. The MAP sensor is a dead end as that would not cause increased emissions without some form of performance problem to go with it. The coolant temp sensor IS a possibility but you would need to check it’s resistance against the temperature chart found in the service manual to verify it’s operation, it’s not difficult you just need to know what readings you should get for a given temperature.

                                #456089
                                dreamer2355dreamer2355
                                Participant

                                  Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:

                                  95 is pre OBDII which started in 96.

                                  On those older vehicles once you have your tune up stuff taken care of and you’re sure you don’t have any vacuum leaks the next step I would often take if the vehicle still failed was to replace the O2 sensor, I know you say you replaced yours but back then it was almost like a maintenance item every 60K. The MAP sensor is a dead end as that would not cause increased emissions without some form of performance problem to go with it. The coolant temp sensor IS a possibility but you would need to check it’s resistance against the temperature chart found in the service manual to verify it’s operation, it’s not difficult you just need to know what readings you should get for a given temperature.

                                  Some manufacturers did start using OBD2 in 95 seeing as that was the cross over year, so i wasnt sure if he had a OBD 2 DLC port or not L:D

                                  #456090
                                  EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                                  Keymaster

                                    Quoted From dreamer2355:

                                    Some manufacturers did start using OBD2 in 95 seeing as that was the cross over year, so i wasnt sure if he had a OBD 2 DLC port or not L:D

                                    The only one that I’m aware of that MIGHT have done that was GM since it was their connector in the first place, as for Toyota they didn’t see OBDII till 96.

                                  Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 17 total)
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