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Hey, big fan 😉 !
So I’ve got this problem, I drive year 2000 toyota celica GTS, it had CEL when I bought it and it still does, after flushing the CEL’s with battery removal and OBD2 tool. The two CEL lights that still come up are 1349 and 1346.
Basically what cel 1346 is – VVT Sensor, camshaft position sensor, circuit range/ performance problem.
And 1349 is – Variable Valve Timing System Malfunction Bank 1.The car accelerates fine, the “lift” after 6k RPM engages spot on, but sometimes when its in neutral(manual gearbox) it self revs 1k-2k rpm, when its hot. Sometimes it feels like its a bit hard to gain high rpm’s. All the connectors look ok. Checked and cleaned the IACV and MAF for idle, after some enthusiastic cleaning the idle is still somewhat jumpy… and the CEL’s look quite important and I cant ignore them forever.
Where should I continue? What do I look for?
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🙂 Hello and welcome to the forum. I need to ask some questions for information. Have you worked on cars before and do you feel that you can do your own repair work OR would you take to someone to fix the car for you ? I may be able to point you toward a solution and if you can do the work yourself you may save some money.
You need to check the easy things first. Is you oil clean and up to full on the dipstick ? You have a computer controlled variable valve system that is controlled by the computer and uses a oil switch to change your cam profiles. If your oil is good, the next item could be a engine variable valve timing solenoid that controls the movement of your valve system. It could be malfunctioning. If this is not the problem, then the ECU or computer for the engine may need to be either replaced or reprogrammed.
If you can wrench on your own car and feel good about doing it, then you can try to find your problem and fix it yourself. If you take to a mechanic, you now have a idea about what is going on and needs to be fixed. Good Luck.Ah, a Toyota VVT issue… I have taken some of this from a previous post of mine… Hope it helps…
Has anything been done with this vehicle recently (I.E. Head gasket replaced?) Has anyone cleaned/replaced the OCV (Oil Control Valve) filter?
Sometimes the filters on the oil control valves get clogged…
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=250432
If the timing chain has been off recently, the timing may be off and it will throw this code as well…
If oil is good, no timing work recently done (and timing marks and white chain links line up) and the filter is clean then there is a test you can do with a Toyota scan tool (cost around $50 on EBAY) to test the VVT Actuator…. Occasionally, these actuators get locked closed (or not rotate freely) and will not act properly when commanded and the oil PSI gets above 20 lbs. The Camshaft position sensor tells this to the ECM and you will get a VVT error code.
When your ECM reads that you are going a certain speed/rpms, the VVT actuator should unlock. The test with the scan tool actually will trigger the VVT Actuator to open at idle and when the car bogs down, you know it is working… If nothing happens, you have a bad actuator (big round thing on intake camshaft by the sprocket). There is a special procedure to replace this when putting it back on the cam, it has to be unlocked with shop air, then torqued to specs, then re-locked before installation…
-Karl
Looks like a TSB on that car for the actuator gong bad abnormally.
If Karl’s suggestions do not pan out, Toyota recommends these tests to determine if the actuator has gone bad
Slotcar, thanks for concerns, Ive done quite some years fixing around the car…
Thanks for the useful tips!
Recently cleaned OCV filter mesh trying to fix this. Mesh was pretty clean anyway.
Will try reading the resistance ohms and testing the VVT actuator.
Might there be any problem with Camshaft sensor, that triggers the VVT actuator to act abnormaly? Is there a way to test camshaft sensor? as much as I found out googling, cam sensors are all different, couldnt find any ohms or anyting to check…
Checked the ohms on OCV, was exactly 7, so its ok. When I applied 12v, there was clicking, so its moving… Can it be timing chain stretch or one tooth off? that would send faulty signal to cam sensor and the sensor could command the OCV to actuate inapropriately…
Am I right?
I havent done any chain related repairs and as I said, the check engine light was on, when the car was bought second hand.
Do you have a belt or a chain? You may need to check timing.
did you try the running test for the 1349 to see if the engine
stumbles when applying 12v to the OCV coil?
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