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Yes this is a sponsored video, but I ended up liking it better than my original oil change videos. I think it’s more concise and contains better information. What are your thoughts?
I also had some fun with this one. I tried to put the oil into every shot of the video. See if you can spot it in each scene.
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Excellent video which covers all the issues and I expect that Pennzoil will be happy with that.
A couple of comments:
1. Tight Sump Plugs
Some mechanics do tighten sump plugs far too tight and it can be a pain getting them loose if your car is not on a lift. What do you recommend if you run into a tight sump plug like this and you are doing an oil change at home.?
I have found with that with the ring spanner firmly in place on the plug, giving the spanner a couple of light taps with a rubber mallet is enough to loosen the plug without doing any damage too it.2. Have a Spare Sump Plug On Hand
If people are doing their own oil changes always have a new spare sump plug on hand and inspect the original plug before refitting it. If the edges are looking a bit worse for wear and there are some signs of the sump plug edges starting to round off from abuse then immediately replace it with your new spare plug.3. Check the Oil Level on the Dip Stick – Don’t Overfill
Don’t ever over fill the sump. Run the engine for a few minutes, let the new oil settle for a few minutes and then check the oil level on the dip stick. Very slightly under filling when adding the fresh oil (95%), checking the oil level and then topping up to the full mark(100%) with the correct amount to finish off is better than over filling the sump.I’ve often wondered about the real-world usefulness of tip #3 (pre-fill the filter if possible). Surely there’s no real danger of a “dry start” because all the internal engine components will have a film of oil on them anyway? And as is implied in the video, some oil filters are mounted in such a way as to make pre-filling impractical or impossible; my 4.0L Jeep filter mounts with its fill hole pointing downwards, so the designers can’t be worried that starting up with empty oil filter will cause damage.
[quote=”Dunebasher” post=146329]I’ve often wondered about the real-world usefulness of tip #3 (pre-fill the filter if possible). Surely there’s no real danger of a “dry start” because all the internal engine components will have a film of oil on them anyway? And as is implied in the video, some oil filters are mounted in such a way as to make pre-filling impractical or impossible; my 4.0L Jeep filter mounts with its fill hole pointing downwards, so the designers can’t be worried that starting up with empty oil filter will cause damage.[/quote]
In turbocharged applications, priming the oil filter (and the oil supply for the turbo) is often recommended. The oil change ritual includes pre-filling the oil filter and cranking the engine with the fuel disabled or spark plug removed. I don’t have any evidence of the effects of oil starvation on a turbo, but I consider the “ritual” cheap insurance against an expensive repair.
Viscosity is exactly a measure of the force required for an oil’s molecules to slide over one another which is to say, “flow”.
So any oil, synthetic from natural gas, synthetic from petroleum or mineral based, if they have the same viscosity, then the flow and inter-molecular forces are the same.
This means the Penzoil’s “ball bearing” theory from natural gas amounts to advertizing nonsense.
The cartridge type oil filters you change first,I do this with the 3.6 Chrysler and 2.2 ecotecs.Plus there are engines that use synthetic only,the 3 valve 5.4 and 6.8L V10 Fords,lifters will rattle like crazy if synthetic oil is not used.GM has some that use Mobil 1 only saying on the oil cap,the 5th gen Camaros and Corvettes including some Cadillacs are this way.My dad’s 2015 Chevy 3500 HD with the Duramax uses Mobil 1 synthetic oil uses Mobil 1 only.GM will void the engine warranty if the dexos approved oil is not used in the 2011 and newer GMs.Have to keep the receipts too.Chrysler does have a TSB on the 5.7 hemis with the MDS system,5w 20 oil only.The MDS system will not work right if the 5w 20 oil is not used.
[quote=”Hanneman” post=146372]
In turbocharged applications, priming the oil filter (and the oil supply for the turbo) is often recommended[/quote]But presumably, in those applications the filter mounts in such a way as to allow it to be filled before it’s installed, unlike my Jeep with its upside-down filter mounting. For the average car I can’t see an empty filter being an issue, because all the internal components will already be covered in oil (as they will be in the turbo engine, but there are clearly other considerations there).
I’m not saying “ignore the manual if it tells you to pre-fill the filter”, because if pre-filling is specified by the manufacturer then go for it, but I do think that an awful lot of “cheap insurance” related to cars isn’t insurance at all because it doesn’t make the slightest real-world difference, it’s just superstition, like the 3000-mile oil change.
Yea, I regret not adding in checking the oil level after you’re done. I have yet to make a perfect video. 🙂
As for tight drain plugs, the longer the wrench the better. Better leverage gives you an advantage. That’s why I use that long wrench when changing oil.
Ever try spraying brakecleen AND blowing compressed air on the same spot at the same time?
Works great.I thing that I like to do every oil change, whether at home or at the shop on a customers car, is a quick inspection. Make sure the tire pressures are set correctly and the tires are in good condition. Shake down the suspension to make sure nothing is a safety issue. Visually look under the hood to make sure fluids are good, belts/hoses are ok, and that there are no leaks. And visually look under the car to make sure everything is in good shape. Only takes a couple minutes and most of it can be done while the oil is draining. Just some cheap insurance to make sure the vehicle is safe.
4wd trucks,check the fluid levels in the transfer case,front and rear differentials too.Includes the manual transmissions too.Most oil change places and the dealership don’t check these at all.Ford 5 speeds in the F150s are well known for leaking from the top.
I don’t have this fancy lift and use jack stands but when I do my oil change, after the oil start to drip from the drain, I just jack up the front of the car even higher and I get about 1/4 of a quart more out of the oil pan than letting drip all night. This speeds up the process.
AWESOME quickly drain your oil.
:cheer:[quote=”Timinglight” post=150988]www.qwikvalve.com
AWESOME quickly drain your oil.
:cheer:[/quote]I’ve seen a few of these things installed and they almost always leak. I don’t recommend them.
Hello Eric
Thank you for responding…
I didn’t install it yet but I wonder does it leak through the valve or the fiber washer included?
I planned to install it with a copper crush washer.
Thanks
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