- This topic has 27 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 13 years ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hey guys.
I had a friend bring me his truck (1993 ford ranger 2.3L)He said it over heated and was knocking…
He shut it down and let it set.
He brought it over here to me and I ran a few checks…
I had 90psi on each piston.Iv got fire and fuel.
Soo This thing should run.(Maybe not right but should start)
I had my hand over the
-
Replies
-
Well I got the engine to TDC.
The cam looks to be lined up with its mark but I cant find the mark for the oil pump????Any idea wear it would be lotacted???
This year engine did have to PRETTY LITTLE DIMONEDs to help line up everything!Is that the dual plug 4 cylinder engine?
This may help in any case –
And those compression numbers are very low for that engine.
Did you do a coolant pressure test?
This also may be better posted in the “Service and Repair” forum seeing as this section is the “How To..” forum meaning step by step instructions for diagnostic and repair C8-)
OK the head is off!!!
When I pulled the vavle cover off I found bad oil mixxed with water all inside the upper part of the head!!!
So at verry minum I know it had a blowen headgasket!!!I drained all the water out of the engine.
Pulled the head and guess what!!!Every cylender was full of anti freeze and water!!!
Some of the head bolts had black carbion caked all the way down them….I told the kid to just find a new head or a rebuilt head bc theres a good chance its cracked somewear.
I didn want to bother asking our local machine shop bc I feel he is way over priced and wont give no advice… I took a head to him once to pull 2 broken bolts and he wanted 120$ and said it would take him about 1-2 hours!!!
My next worry is the block….
Anyway of telling if its crack???
Thanks guys!!!There was other tests you could have done before pulling the head off but i guess its too late now.
I would be checking the block deck surface and seeing if its within spec by using some feeler gauges, a straight edge and the factory values.
The only true way of checking the block for cracks would be to use a dye or magna flux it. That would be best left to a machine shop.
Are you sure the coolant in the cylinders wasn’t from when you removed the head? W;)
Im pretty Sure dreamer!
I drained the radiator and turned the engine over a few times to help pump the water out!!!
Infact I cranked the engine over before pulling the heads with the plugs out and it was blowing the water out of the spark plug holes!!!
I did tell him that I cant be 100% on this with out a machine shop checking her out….
I told him theres about a 60% chance of it being in the heads!!!
From what Iv read and always been told (Heat gets the heads for the most part) *I know theres always a chance of a bad block* But I warned him!!!
This truck has over 395K on it!!!
I started to prep it for a rebuild (Removing mounts and other small parts) when I found only 30PSI on 1&2
But when I pulled the valve cover and found all that water mixxed up inside the valve cover -I knew it had to come apart anyway!!!More detail plz sir ( I would be checking the block deck surface and seeing if its within spec by using some feeler gauges, a straight edge and the factory values.
Thanks dreamer!Yes Dreamer it is the dual plugged engine!!!
The guy claimed to have had a compression test ran on it -They cranked it for 3 secs and came back 90 or so….
I went to test it my self today with my tester and for the life OF me i could not get my test to go in the freaking plug hole???? This is my tester
[url=https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=compressopm+tester&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=3475l9493l0l9653l26l19l4l1l1l0l214l2534l4.13.2l23l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1600&bih=837&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi:1wqwvuzs]https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=compressopm+tester&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=3475l9493l0l9653l26l19l4l1l1l0l214l2534l4.13.2l23l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1600&bih=837&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wiW[/url]TF why wont my tester fit???Its got both ends. It doesnt even act like it wants to screw in.
Ok anyway…
It is in Time.
It is getting fire!
It is getting fuel.Soo even if a cylinder was down it should try to start right????
When you crank on this thing it doesn’t even make a sound like it wants to start….
It will make a bumping or jumping sound like its firing every other cycle but I dont know……….Like I said before It over heated and died…
What should I check before taking her apart.
Dreaming thanks for that link bro……
Let me know wear I should start next!!!Guess what the ding bats have been doing!!!!
They have been only replacing the plugs on the left side of the engine (BC the one on the right are hard to get to due the the plenum) They wear rusted in place but i got them….There show aswell!!!
They probably don’t know why there is 8 plugs on that 4 cylinder engine either C:P
And if the compression numbers are that low, no it will not start. Remember the combustion engine is just one big air pump.
Do you have a vacuum gauge you can hook up while cranking?
If it did over heat, he/she may have warped the heads or done other damage.
How do you know its time time? Did you take both plastic covers off?
I ran a comprssion check my self to day!
4=90psi
3=60psi
2=30psi
1=30psiSoo I think its safe to say I can start taking her apart!!!!
Yes dreamer I did.
I set the engine balncer to TC(TOP DEAD CENTER) with the cover on!
Then I pulled the cover off the engine and found the cam pully was lined up perfect with its markings!!!Now beleive it or not…My old truck only held 90psi on each pistion and ran fine for years!!!!
I know its low but it should a least run!Thanks for your help dreamer!!! Keep me updated with idea bro!
Ummmm DREAMER~~
I just found a 1988 ford ranger 2.3l for 175$ with all new top end…The only problem is the engine is single plugged!!!!
Now from what I understand – All I would have to change is the ext mainfold and intake….
Plz help me with this…I got to know It will convert over with out much money!!!
Thanks
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.