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Car = 2003 Mitubishi Galant ES 2.4L
Hello,
I’m replacing my timing belt, pulley, water pump and the hydraulic tensioner that comes with my vehicle. I have a couple questions…Q1: How do I know that the tension on the timing belt is correct?
Q2: Is there cheap tricks to hold the camshaft pulley’s and crankshaft pulley’s in place during the replacement process?
Q3: I purchased a new hydraulic tensioner, how do I properly install that? Is there a setup that is required? Or is it just a bolt on kind of deal? I’m confused on how to make it work properly..
Thank you!
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[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=107794]Ah… its all coming back now… I hated those engines…
This is the tool… Had one like it, but not the same… For this to be done right, not much else can help…
Also had to set something with inch pound torque wrench… Actually I prefer to forget…
Good luck!
-Karl[/quote]
The inch pound thing is an old procedure. There is also a procedure where you measure the protrusion of the pin out of the tensioner. What people in the field found was that if you got the pin loose in the tensioner you had the same result but is much easier to do.
I know the oil pump is run off the main timing belt, not the balance belt. Yes, I’m replacing both belts and all of the pulley’s. So if I understand correctly, when I paint the marks on the old belt and by standing one on top of the other and transferring it I’m basically getting another way of judging how tight to pull the tension on the pulley’s?
[quote=”BenJass” post=107807]I know the oil pump is run off the main timing belt, not the balance belt. Yes, I’m replacing both belts and all of the pulley’s. So if I understand correctly, when I paint the marks on the old belt and by standing one on top of the other and transferring it I’m basically getting another way of judging how tight to pull the tension on the pulley’s?[/quote]
No, not correct. The paint marks just assure that when you get done the engine will be in time. Adjusting the tensioner pulley until the pin is loose sets the tension on the timing belt. Well, what you really are doing is getting the tensioner preset to where it has enough adjustment to take up the slack as the belt stretches.
The b-belt is just adjusted by feel. The book says the b-belt is adjusted correctly for my 4g63 when you press between the sprockets with a pressure of 22 pounds and the belt is deflected 0.27 inches. That is impossible to do but it gives you an idea of what the correct tension is.
Would investing in something like the kriket be beneficial? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GAT0/91107.oap?ck=Search_91107_-1_3539&keyword=91107
The only problem is…I have no idea what the proper tension should be considering that the manual i have doesn’t even specify that in the specifications
[quote=”BenJass” post=107810]Would investing in something like the kriket be beneficial? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GAT0/91107.oap?ck=Search_91107_-1_3539&keyword=91107
The only problem is…I have no idea what the proper tension should be considering that the manual i have doesn’t even specify that in the specifications[/quote]
Not for me. I have a pretty good idea what 22 pounds of pressure is. I can eyeball a quarter of an inch of movement. Over the life of the b-belt, if that is what we are talking about, it is important to get it tight enough so that as it grows over time it doesn’t become sloppy loose.
As for the timing belt, the tension is going to be determined by the spring inside the tensioner. What you are doing in adjusting the pulley until the pin is loose is getting the tensioner set to have the most available adjustment during the life of the timing belt. If the tensioner runs out of travel due to incorrect adjustment the belt can jump time and you don’t want that to happen to an interference engine.
Hydraulic tensioners contain both a spring and oil. As the piston moves the oil must move through a tiny orifice. So, adjustment is slow. That is why after adjustment you wait 15 minutes and check again.
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