- This topic has 21 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Car = 2003 Mitubishi Galant ES 2.4L
Hello,
I’m replacing my timing belt, pulley, water pump and the hydraulic tensioner that comes with my vehicle. I have a couple questions…Q1: How do I know that the tension on the timing belt is correct?
Q2: Is there cheap tricks to hold the camshaft pulley’s and crankshaft pulley’s in place during the replacement process?
Q3: I purchased a new hydraulic tensioner, how do I properly install that? Is there a setup that is required? Or is it just a bolt on kind of deal? I’m confused on how to make it work properly..
Thank you!
-
Replies
-
Regarding the tensioner; the new one should come preloaded with a pin. You simply bolt it in place, make sure everything is lined up and pull the pin to unload it. Regarding the belt, there may be some tricks. I’ve simply used an assistant to help watch and hold the camshaft pulleys in place while lining up the marks on the crank. Some Japanese makes are a little more involved because the timing belts are spread out compared to other vehicles.
Thank you! Now since it has an hydraulic tensioner, does that mean I don’t have to worry so much about the tension of the belt? Does it adjust it automatically?
But I’m replacing the tensioner pulley? From what I have seen in certain videos is that you need to move that over to put tension on the belt, adjusting that will affect the tension on the belt. How do I know how tight to pull that?
I may be mistaken regarding the set up without looking at it, but I believe when the tensioner unloads, it unloads against the side of the pulley. Can you send a pic? Perhaps,some others will weigh in on this too.
No B-Belt and screw down for this?
Mitsubishi ain’t making them that hard anymore… LOL
To answer a few of your questions…
1- If you have a new tensioner and you trust the manufacturer, then it will hold the proper tension…
2 – Yes there are tricks to hold the belt tight… Large Black Paper binders… these hold and squeeze the belt together or to Cam sprockets….
3 – It should just bolt on and have a “Grenade” type pin that releases the pressure when it is pulled…
Best of luck…
-Karl
There is a balance belt, that wasn’t real relevant to the question… so all I do is just pull the tensioner as far as it goes and tighten it up is what you’re saying? I apologize for all the questions, with an interface engine I’m not risking anything.
You see those two little holes on the idler on the tensioner arm, those take a special tool.
That motor I believe is a 4g64. On the 4g63 you loosen the bolt holding the adjustable pulley and turn the center of the pulley with the special tool until the grenade pin in the tensioner can be slid in and out without friction. Then you tighten the bolt in the pulley.
Then you wait about 15 minutes to see if the grenade pin is still loose. If it is you are done with the adjusting part. Pull the pin.
This procedure has been the same for the 4g63 motor from 1990 till they quit making the engine at about 2006. Is the 4g64 the same? I’m guessing it is but don’t know for sure.
[quote=”BenJass” post=107789]There is a balance belt, that wasn’t real relevant to the question… so all I do is just pull the tensioner as far as it goes and tighten it up is what you’re saying? I apologize for all the questions, with an interface engine I’m not risking anything.[/quote]
On the Mitsubishis with the B-belt…You used the battery hold down bolt to push down on the tensioner (like in some old Hondas)…. Was just making light of this…
-Karl
I have an 03 galant, i have a repair manual with it and i have seen the balance belt on the engine. Thank you barney, is there something i can use inplace of the special tool? Does the tensioner on the BB need any special tigtening?
Ah… its all coming back now… I hated those engines…
This is the tool… Had one like it, but not the same… For this to be done right, not much else can help…
Also had to set something with inch pound torque wrench… Actually I prefer to forget…
Good luck!
-Karl
Well maybe something like a snap ring pliers could be used in place of the special tool. What you need is something that can reach into the holes and also allow you to apply enough torque to turn the inside of the pulley. I’ve heard of people making the tool.
If you have a balance belt does this thing have two balance shafts? Because if it does it can get interesting because one of them is driven off of the oil pump sprocket at twice crankshaft rpm. This means you can have the oil pump crank sprocket lined up with its timing mark and still have the engine out of time.
This is how I would proceed: paint marks on each sprocket and onto the old belts. Line up the timing marks and pull the old tensioner and belts while being careful not to disturb any of the sprockets especially the oil pump sprocket. Transfer the paint marks to the new belts by stacking the new belt on top of the old belt and carefully aligning the teeth. This is easier than it sounds. Now install the new belts making sure they align with the paint marks on the sprockets.
The b-belt should also have an adjustable tensioner idler. I’d adjust it just a little looser than a typical tight accessory belt. BTW, most of the timing belt problems on these engines is caused by the stupid b-belt breaking and getting into the timing belt. So, I hope you are replacing this belt too.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.