Timing Belt Question!

[JamesB1985]

I’m Re-building an Acura CL 3.0 V6, same motor as 98 Accord. It’s a J30A1. I’m at the point of putting the timing belt on. I have put both cylinder heads on with their respective pulleys and installed the crank gear.

Now the manual says to line up the crank gear with the timing mark on the oil pump. I did that. It then says to line up both camshaft pulleys with the timing mark on the cam pulley to the timing mark on the back cover of the cylinder head. I lined up the front camshaft pulley with number 1 but I can’t get the rear pulley to line up.. I turn the camshaft pulley with a 17mm socket and ratchet and it turns close to the upper mark.. but them falls down the camshaft lobe and rolls past the TDC mark.

Do I have to install the timing belt loosely around the camshaft to hold it in place ? I’m confused at this point? I have bought Ericthecarguy’s V6 timing belt video but he removes the belt an the cam gears stay in TDC position. What if the rear cam gear moved and you had to place it back in the upper position? Should it fall right on the TDC mark easily as you turn that pulley?

Topic

[JamesB1985]

I’m hearing I have to hold that rear camshaft pulley in place as I put the belt on, or I have to find the “sweet spot” so to say of the cam pulley where it will hold at the TDC position. ANy other ideas?

[Mike]

I can typically line the marks up and the pulley stays…u have to find the sweet spot…if you rotate it slow, it should stay

[Mathieu]

If you worry to freeze your pulley on the right position. You can use a rag and insert It between the belt and the pulley in a squeeze direction.

[Its me]

The secret is ZIP TIES!

Use zip ties to hold the timing pulleys in position (you can also sometimes use those black metal paper binder clips, but on this engine I recommend a zip tie). If the pulleys are not stabilized they will move ever so slightly (or a whole 1/4 turn in this engine’s case) and when you think you are done, you check your work and find you are off time….

I have done your exact same engine and the back pulley/cam always seems to want to move. If you just follow the directions in the Haynes manual you can seriously screw up your engine (It was poorly written IMHO).

Real fixes Real fast has a great video on this using zip ties. Follow this exact, go slowly and it will be a piece of cake! 🙂

The second video shows the installation using zip ties…

Karl!

[JamesB1985]

Wow! Thanks a lot guys. This makes me feel a whole lot better and explains perfectly how to get my T belt on! Great job

[pilotvp]

Is there an alignment hole on the cam shaft near cam sprocket? If so, stick a pin into it, and that should maintain your cam shaft alignment during belt install. The valve cover must be removed to see this.

[JamesB1985]

There is not an alignment hole, but there is two bolts that go into the rear cover behind the camshaft pulleys. I backed those out to hold the camshaft pulley in place so I could torque the camshaft pulley bolts (67 lb-ft.)

I watched the video’s the previous poster posted from Real Fixes and they use zip ties for a different reason then what I am trying to accomplish but I think I’m going to be able to hold the pulley anyway.

I’m trying to hold the camshaft pulley in TDC position with the belt not even on the engine at all. Not hold the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley teeth to keep it from slipping/changing time.

[pilotvp]

I wonder if there is a problem with one or more of the valves or the cam lobe, preventing you from keeping TDC?

[JamesB1985]

I don’t believe so. This is the same camshaft that came out of the car before it died. I Rebuilt the whole cylinder head with new valves, valve seals, springs, etc.

This cylinder head is a used one off of EBAY. It is identical to the old cylinder head in every aspect. I’ve been told by a few people at the Honda dealership that this does happen sometimes with that rear cam sprocket and you do have to hold it when it happens. I’m gonna see what happens this weekend when I go out there again and I’ll report back what happens.

[Its me]

You need a Camshaft pulley tightening tool

You can get one of these for about $60 or less. Much less if you don’t buy it on the truck. It is adjustable and works great!!!

Karl!

[pilotvp]

Please do!

[EricTheCarGuy]

This is typical. You need to carefully line up the mark and then install the belt. The rear cam has spring tension on it due to the valve springs. You need to get it just right. I use a long straight wrench to do this. If you use a ratchet there may be too much play in the tool which can cause the cam to move when you get it close to the mark. It CAN be done, it just takes a little patients. There is no special tool or anything for this, it’s not needed. You just need to get it in just the right spot before you install the belt.

[JamesB1985]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=52557]This is typical. You need to carefully line up the mark and then install the belt. The rear cam has spring tension on it due to the valve springs. You need to get it just right. I use a long straight wrench to do this. If you use a ratchet there may be too much play in the tool which can cause the cam to move when you get it close to the mark. It CAN be done, it just takes a little patients. There is no special tool or anything for this, it’s not needed. You just need to get it in just the right spot before you install the belt.[/quote]

Ericthecarguy is exactly correct.. I asked one of the old timers at Honda what to do about this problem and he said you have to find the “sweet spot” and the camshaft pulley will hold there, which is exactly what Eric is saying. That’s what I did and it worked perfectly.

[Author]

Replies