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March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455644
I am putting new head gaskets in a 98 Pontiac montana 3400.
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March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455645
Welcome to the forums ! is the engine still together or have you already pulled the heads ? if still together turn the motor over by hand and line the timing marks up on the crank pulley at tdc on the pointer and the cams should have marks that line up once you have this done you are ready to disassemble.
March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455646I wasnt aware that the GM 3400 used distributor style ignition system. I was pretty sure it just used 3 coil packs mounted to an ignition module, with timing controlled by a crankshaft position sensor. Perhaps i’m confusing it with the 3800
March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455647after reading your post again i misread what you typed. You’re not saying its a distributor style ignition….. gotcha now! My mind isnt fully awake yet
March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455648A majority of the engine is still in place – However, I have removed the front side of the engines springs, push rods, rocker arms, keepers etc BUT the cylinder head is still in place. I realized that If I remove this head, I would then also remove the bracket that I need to connect a strap to. This bracket is needed to winch the engine(rotate the engine) forward to get to the rear valve cover, and head etc..
Does that help?
With the heads off, would I still be able to set the timing correctly? I still have them on.
Thanks
March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455649Did you align the timing marks?
If you did then you should be fine.March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455650We also have a free link to Chilton’s online that may have some repair information that should help with this procedure. Just use the forum search function to find it.
Its a good idea as suggested to set the engine at TDC before pulling the heads using the timing marks.
Here is a video from Richpin where he shows using a technique to find TDC –
http://www.youtube.com/user/richpin06a# … H0gHdnM1cE
March 4, 2012 at 11:00 am #455651Pull no. 1 plug, and put yer finger in the hole. Have someone rotate the engine by hand until you feel your finger being pushed out of the hole. Then, insert a long screwdriver or similiar and slowly keep rotating until the screwdriver stops moving up. You should be pretty close. Then you can line up the timing marks.
March 5, 2012 at 11:00 am #455652I do show how to find the compression stroke in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LF … ure=relmfuHowever if you had the engine apart you’re going to need to find the mechanical marks for the timing and line those up, perhaps use the chilton link to find that information so that you can put everything back in time the way it’s suppose to be. Be careful about turning the engine over if it’s back in time however as if it’s too far out of time the piston could come into contact with the valves and bend them in some cases so be careful when you turn the engine over (by hand) and if you feel any resistance then stop and move the cam a little till you can continue.
March 5, 2012 at 11:00 am #455653Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I do show how to find the compression stroke in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LF … ure=relmfuHowever if you had the engine apart you’re going to need to find the mechanical marks for the timing and line those up, perhaps use the chilton link to find that information so that you can put everything back in time the way it’s suppose to be. Be careful about turning the engine over if it’s back in time however as if it’s too far out of time the piston could come into contact with the valves and bend them in some cases so be careful when you turn the engine over (by hand) and if you feel any resistance then stop and move the cam a little till you can continue.
I’m finding that I have to re-watch some of your vids because over that last couple years, I’ve forgotten what all you have covered. It’s good times all over again, so I can’t complain.
March 5, 2012 at 11:00 am #455654The cam timing won’t change unless you do something to the timing chain. Seeing as how it’s an overhead valve engine, and you’re only replacing the head gaskets, there’s no reason to expose the timing components anyway. Pull the intake manifold, pull the valve covers, remove the rocker arms, yank the push rods out, remove the heads, change the lifters if you’re feeling saucy. As long as you keep all the parts in order, everything should be good. Ignition timing isn’t adjustable, so you don’t have to worry about that.
March 5, 2012 at 11:00 am #455655Quoted From 3SheetsDiesel:
The cam timing won’t change unless you do something to the timing chain. Seeing as how it’s an overhead valve engine, and you’re only replacing the head gaskets, there’s no reason to expose the timing components anyway. Pull the intake manifold, pull the valve covers, remove the rocker arms, yank the push rods out, remove the heads, change the lifters if you’re feeling saucy. As long as you keep all the parts in order, everything should be good. Ignition timing isn’t adjustable, so you don’t have to worry about that.
On top of this, I’ve watched a couple vids lately where the cam gears are wired (by the tech) to the chain itself, so even if it was an OHC engine, you wouldn’t have to mess with the timing. Good call 3Sheets.
March 9, 2012 at 11:00 am #455656Quoted From Beefy:
On top of this, I’ve watched a couple vids lately where the cam gears are wired (by the tech) to the chain itself, so even if it was an OHC engine, you wouldn’t have to mess with the timing. Good call 3Sheets.
I do this myself at times when removing a cylinder head or something like that, makes reassembly a LOT easier. Also it doesn’t hurt to make your own marks from time to time just make sure they are accurate, wide paint marks don’t help much.
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