tie rod end problem

[eddie]

hey people so i tried to replace my tie rod end but that lock nut wont come loose , the tie rod its self won’t come loose either , found out i needed to replace my inner tie rod too. put loads of pb blaster but nothing.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/cophRnIl.jpg[/IMG]

Topic

[Its me]

Put the outer tie rod end back in the knuckle and install the nut back on the stud of the tie rod end loosely (so the tie rod end cannot turn)… Take a big wrench and just turn the jam nut (the shiny one furthest back) to the right (clockwise)… It will break loose and then you can spin off your outer tie rod easily…(counterclockwise)…

It really is pretty simple.. but explaining it may not be 🙂

Edit… Saw that you cannot get the outer tie rod stud out of the knuckle… Loosen the jam nut first….

The proper way to remove a tie rod from a knuckle is to hammer on the knuckle (where the tie rod stud goes through)… If this doesn’t work a pickle fork can do it too… Since you are replacing the outer tie rod you can hammer on the stud from underneath without much worry about what you do to the threads…

Also, don’t immediately remove the jam nut… Either measure or count the threads so you can put the replacement back as close as possible to this (the original) position so you don’t make it a pain for the guy who has to do the alignment…

-Karl

[eddie]

i tried that but then the ball joint on the tie rod would still move around. i put a wrench on the tie rod itself so it wont actually move around and still nothing.

[Its me]

Hmmm… So the outer tie rod stud is in the knuckle and it still spins 360 around? It should stop when you turn the the jam nut at some point (it will turn some)…. I am a little confused… If the outer tie rod stud is not in the knuckle, then yes.. it will spin around and be a pain and dang near impossible to remove…

Maybe another pic… showing the outer tie rod in the knuckle…

-Karl

[eddie]

oh when its in the knuckle it will turn and stop… maybe say from 12 o’clock to 11 o clock and vise versa

[Its me]

OK, that is what it is supposed to do… When you turn the jam nut to the right, the tie rod end will also be to right, and stop … This is what allows you to get force on the jam nut…(hence why the stud needs to be in the knuckle)…

The confusing part may be that you need to turn the jam nut to the right (CLOCKWISE) as if you are tightening it, but in actuality, you are loosening it from the tie rod end… Then remove the outer tie rod stud from the knuckle and the outer tie rod will just unscrew to the left (usually easily by hand)…

I recommend a flare nut wrench to turn a rusty jam nut, but yours looks pretty shiny so it should not be that seized… It may take some man strength to get the nut to move, but once it does, it will spin very freely… Sometimes a pipe wrench or using an open end wrench with another “cheater” wrench through the box end will help get the leverage to move the nut…

-Karl

[eddie]

dang mo money to spend? 🙁 wonder if autozone has them for rent . i used an adjustable wrench on the nut.

[Lorrin Barth]

If pulling the inner no need to release the jam nut.

[Its me]

Autozone probably has them…(If you are referring to flare nut wrenches)..

An adjustable wrench is not the best thing to use on that nut…

Additionally you more than likely will need to rent this tool once you get the inner tie rod off…

http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-tie-rod-removal-set-69619.html

This is what you will probably need to get the inner Tie rods off… Any major auto parts store should have this for rent..

Remember this when you get the outer tie rod off….

1. Count the threads, so when you replace the inner and outer, you put it back closely where it was originally.

2. You will have to unscrew the jam nut most times to get the rubber/plastic bellows off the inner tie rod.

3. You will probably have to cut the strap off the bellows to remove it so you can get your inner tie rod removal tool in there (some cars you can use a wrench, but from the looks of your pic, it seems an outside chance)

4. Use the tool shown above to remove the inners…

5. Replace the inner, don’t lose any spacer or flex ring that is in there (you will probably see this)

6. Get a zip tie to re-attach the bellows…

7. Put jam nut back on at the right location(counting the threads)… Sometimes diameters or sizes or replacements are different. If this is the case, compare old to new (may want to put a mark on your old ones with paint)…. measure the distance and put the new jam nut back at the proper location..

8. Pretty much what you have done in reverse…

Good luck..

-Karl

[Its me]

[quote=”barneyb” post=101617]If pulling the inner no need to release the jam nut.[/quote]

On some cars I agree… Don’t think its possible given that picture (unless he wants to push back the boot, but would still have to remove it later) and try to work a wrench up there (if this kind of car/inner tie rod would take a wrench or crowfoot)… Doesn’t look like a lot of space to me… But hey, I still don’t know what kind of car this is! :cheer:

-Karl

[Lorrin Barth]

It sure doesn’t look very rusty like I’d expect. Everything is almost shiny.

I’ve found the jam nut loose on my car. I’m the only one that touches it but I’m pretty sure I didn’t leave it that way. So, on clean threads how do you get something that tight? Some shop must have hired a gorilla to do alignments.

All I’ve ever used for this is adjustable wrenches. I have a couple of 12 inchers. Get the handles to where you can grip both at the same time and squeeze.

[EricTheCarGuy]

That’s really not something you want to use an adjustable wrench on. That’s probably your problem. That said, if your new inner tie rod comes with a new jam nut, you should need to worry about disconnecting it as pointed out.

The right tools make all the difference between success and failure with a job like this.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[eddie]

wonder if it’s do able to have different inner and outer rod brands ? i want to get beck and arnley inner tie rod.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4169856&cc=1374566 (beck) but doesn’t have any specs like the raybesto has so not sure whats the thread sizes on both ends.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1032101&cc=1374566 (raybesto).

you guys think i should get the raybesto and play it safe? i could always call rockauto to verify if the beck/arnley thread sizes happen to be the same, if they are should i get it?

[Lorrin Barth]

Its rare that the inner and outer need replacing at the same time. So, selling a part that doesn’t match the existing thread pitch would guarantee that most of these parts would be returned to the seller.

[eddie]

i got my inner tie rods came with grease , a new jam nut and loctite! any ways quick question . imma put some loctite (unless told otherwise)on the inner tie rod on the thread part that screws into the steering rack , also on the jamnut but what about the outer tie rod? i searched online and some say yes , some say not to . need your opinion.

btw still haven’t gotten another go at taking that jam nut off , i got a 8in pipe wrench but can already see it’s not going to work out but i do have some vice grips . i don’t have a gas torch but maybe a standard lighter will help a little ha!

[EricTheCarGuy]

I don’t recommend locktite on the tie rod. It will make getting it off later more difficult. Most inner tie rod ends have some sort of locking pin or washer that keeps them in place.

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