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Ok, so as the title says, I have this thump/clunk sound (and I haven’t met a mechanic yet who apparently knows what I mean when I say this) right before the car comes to that complete “stop”. If no-one still knows what I mean (and no, I’m not saying I’m doing 100mph and slamming the brakes) but as you’re braking the car has this final “push forward” before a full stop. Almost like if my arrows represent the “force” you feel when driving, car going forward you “feel” < so: < < < < < braking . . . . > STOP – if that helps to elaborate on what I mean.
Now, it also seems to make the noise when going from R to D, it’s an auto, so it’s P R N D but I’m fairly certain I never felt it when doing P R only when it actually hits D which made me think it was either brakes/rotors/calipers, almost as if when the car gets that “jolt” of hitting D (while holding the brake down obviously) but I replaced brakes/rotors/passenger control arm bushing/tires/alignment as well as both tie rod ends about 5 months ago and this just started happening within the past month or two. Oh, I don’t know if this is related, but in terms of hearing the sound and feeling this it seems like it might be but depending on just how how bumpy the road is, and if conditions are “just right”, conditions being speed (although only seem to ever notice it if I’m going slow), degree of RIGHT turn I can almost “feel” a thump/clunk in the steering wheel, as a layman I’d call it almost like feeling two pieces of metal bumping off each other in turn feeling it on the steeling wheel as if it might be (bad wording) the linkage of the steering wheel or something. Could any and all of that be related?
With the tie-rod ends, the way I previous explained the problem is almost the exact opposite of that sound. Instead of giving it too much gas too quickly and having the thump/clunk sound, it’s now, as I said, right before the final inertia of slowing down, a thump/clunk sound from the front of the car.
I see on the ETCG noises TS it COULD be the tranny mount, but is there anywhere (a layman) could look into it further before calling the mechanic?
Sorry for the long-winded post, and if you have any idea what I’m explaining (as best I can), I hope it’s not a bunch of tiny problems ending up being a huge problem.
TL;DR Got new brakes/rotors/passenger rear control arm bushing/tires/alignment ~5 months ago, HEARING a thump/clunk in the front right before the “full stop”, also FEELING a thump/clunk in the steering wheel depending on the bump/speed/degree of turn. Both of those started happening within the past month.
For Eric: Keep up the great vids, I love watching them and can’t wait to see the startup and test drive of the GMC!
Car: 2005 Dodge Neon SXT. 68k Mileage, Automatic. Never touched (outside of checking it of course) the tranny fluid. Never had any tranny work done. Don’t believe I’ve ever replaced any bushings/mounts outside of that one listed above since I bought the car in 2005.
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check the engine mounts. One person starts the car and one
person puts the car in gear.E brake on.foot on brake and give
it some gas and watch the engine movement.recently had a rover 600 auto (honda accord) that had a clonk when going r to d, this was the front engine stabilizer, so as college man says check all mounts and stabilizers.
Hey thanks for the responses guy, I’ll take a look at them, but does any of the mounts only affect dampening when that power shifts from R-D (I cycled through P-R, P-R-N yesterday and didn’t hear any sort of noise at all) or ONLY when applying brake and the force shifts from <<< to <<<<>stop?
As I said, I’ll take a look at them and I suppose beginning with the one closest to the steering linkage considering a SOMETIMES feel it in the steering wheel.
Quick update, taking a look on YT, it appears there’s only 3 engine mounts and they are all on the passenger side?
Make sure you also check the engine cradle mount bushings and bolts. There is a transmission mount on the drivers side.
In my opinion those transmissions are crap. Has it got ATF+4 fluid in it?. (Should have)If you have disconnected the battery for any reason the trans will need time to relearn or may require a “quick learn with a scan tool” . Maybe even a reflash. The combination of these things and worn mounts will cause your problems.
Engine idle speed problems can also cause your complaints.
Over the years I have been tormented by rough shifts causing noises on Chrysler cars.
You’re referring to the rubber inside the mount? Yea, I’m a complete idiot when it comes to terms. 😛
From the video I watched, it appears as though there is 2 easily accessible mounts, and then 1 “main”/middle mount that you can’t really see/access without taking the others off or are you referring to something else completely?
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