Throwing parts: bushings and ball joints: Go big or go small?

[M-TL]

I’ve just picked up an 02 Accord (4dr, 4 cyl vtec F23A1, LX, non abs, rear drums, if it matters…) with 200k km or 120k miles.

The steering needs attention as it needs an alignment, but I am sure that some of the ball joints (upper, or lower, or tie-rod) need to be replaced, so I want to replace the parts before doing the alignment. I am an intermediate DIY (brakes, flushes, axles, blower motor (that was hard…)) planning to do all but the alignment myself. I am planning to replace all the major ball joints and bushings and front stabilizer links in one shot, then have an alignment, and then consider getting new rubber (tires), if necessary. I know Eric has stated in his vids that one shouldn’t just blindly throw money/parts at the car, but in this case I am wondering if it isn’t more efficient to carry out my plan to do the whole setup because:

I don’t want to have to start diagnosing individual ball joints, or wonder if a bushing is making that noise?
I don’t want to have to open the knuckle multiple times doing one thing at a time
Winters in Montreal (Canada) are brutal, so even if mileage isn’t high by Cali or AZ standards, undercarriage can be quite rusty (i.e. seized bolts) and these parts wear out much faster with our rough roads.
I don’t want to / can’t work on the car during winter so would prefer insurance of knowing all the bushings/ball joints are good.
I order parts online so I’d rather order all the parts and replace all (bad and questionable) parts. (If a part looks perfect, I may just leave it be.)

I am wondering if my logic has any merit, or if those more experienced have better suggestions. I imagine this may all come down to how much the parts cost. Given that these small parts are relatively inexpensive, it will be 200 $ (without upper arms/ball joints) to 400$ (with). So for a total of 500$ including alignment (and my “free” labor) I figure it’s a good investment that will ensure proper steering and alignment for a good few years. (FYI, suspension feels great.)

Topic

[3SheetsDiesel]

Go ahead and replace the parts if you want to. If I was in your situation, I’d first check to see if there was any abnormal movement in the front suspension, after which I’d replace all the worn parts, as well as their matching counterparts on the other side of the car. Meaning, if I discovered that the right upper ball joint had play in it, both upper ball joints would be getting replaced, preferably with greasable parts if available. Also, I know that some people like to reuse cotter pins, but I personally won’t do that. I look at it this way; I can buy a box of 100 assorted cotter pins for about $6, just put a new one on, since metal can only be flexed so many times before it breaks.

Also, since you live in a place where everything rusts, I imagine that you already know about Anti-Seize compound. It’s your friend on this sort of thing. Just don’t put it on the tapered parts of the suspension components, like the part of the ball joint that goes through the knuckle, or you won’t be able to tighten the nut down. I found that one out the hard way.

Also, I don’t believe that you can but upper ball joints seperately from the upper control arms for your car, but I could be wrong. I’ve never seen them sold as anything other than a complete UCA though.

[Mtxmike]

I would probably go ahead and do some preventative maintenance and just replace all my ball joints links and bushings before it gets cold. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. Or in Canada I guess a gram of prevention would be worth a kilo of cure. 🙂 . I live in NYC and the winters are brutal. So outside maintenance is very difficult when there is 1 foot of snow (30cm) on the ground. Do it before the winter. That will be one less headache.

[M-TL]

Quoted From 3SheetsDiesel:

Also, since you live in a place where everything rusts, I imagine that you already know about Anti-Seize compound. It’s your friend on this sort of thing. Just don’t put it on the tapered parts of the suspension components, like the part of the ball joint that goes through the knuckle, or you won’t be able to tighten the nut down. I found that one out the hard way.

Also, I don’t believe that you can but upper ball joints seperately from the upper control arms for your car, but I could be wrong. I’ve never seen them sold as anything other than a complete UCA though.

Anti-seize is my best friend… Thanks for the tip on not applying it on the ball joint, I definitely would have applied it otherwise!

You are right about the upper arm; hence the cost 130$ OEM (each) or 75$ jobber. I ordered jobber on this one as it was too much…

I also couldn’t find the ball joint in the knuckle on majestic honda’s website (ditto bernardi honda). I ordered it elsewhere (autopartsway dot ca) that had Japan-made ball joints for 32$ each. I know how to replace them thanks to Eric’s vid on the messed up Accord (where the ball joint gave way).

As to the other poster, if you think NYC winters are tough, it’s even worse here. Definitely need to get these done before it starts getting cold (when just holding a wrench can freeze your fingers off! I do my work in my driveway, not in my garage) Thanks for your responses.

[f150accord]

I have a 2002 Accord V6 with 400K kms., most of them on Montreal and area roads. I have replaced most of the front end parts, but I have yet to experience any problem with the lower ball joints.

I have had mixed results using aftermarket. Outer tie rods (supposedly OEM), stabilizer links (Moog) lasted less than 20K kms. All have been replaced with parts from Majestic Honda. The upper control arms are OK after about 40K kms.

I suggest you hold off on the lower ball joint until you are sure there is a problem, and replace the entire knuckle assembly.

For jobber parts for my F150 I buy from Partex in Chomedey, Laval (on Samson). Prices are similar to on line, good advice and good service.

Mark

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