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Hi!
I recently purchased a new thermostat, but what happens is that the coolant temperature is not staying constant. The indicator goes up to the middle of the scale, when the thermostat opens it falls back to the 1/3 of the scale, then back to the middle, then falls back again. This happens if I’m driving in city or highway also. Can this be caused by a sticking new thermostat? Shall I replace it with another, or I shouldn’t care about it?Thanks’ for help!
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It’s not right. I’d suggest OEM or at least a better one. I notice the DIY parts houses now list on their computer screens good-better-best. For something as important as your car’s cooling system, go with best.
I chose the best of those that was on stock. It is made by Gates… looks like I\’m buying a new one…
Thanks!
It could be air in the system. Try bleeding the air. you don’t need the funnel
put a pan under for any spillage.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats#SolvingCoolingSystemProblems
there is no air in the system, I’m sure. That was the first thing I thought of, that air might be trapped under the thermostat…
barneyb is right – forget the thermostats from the BiG Box stores!
After doing some research on thermostats and then comparing the \”best\” grade Big Box thermostat versus the OEM one, I made a return to the Big Box. Then I spent $4 more at the dealer for an OE thermostat and new gasket.
I noticed that some of the thermostats the Big Box stores sell have \”alternative set points\” (different temperatures) than what the OE specs call for. Often I had to drill down into the specs before this was obvious. Since Eric says the FI engine is dependent on engine temperature I didn\’t want to mess with any temperature \”adjustment\” that an alternate thermostat might encumber.
Also watch Eric\’s bleeding a cooling system video and follow that. I found a cheapo radiator funnel that I modified with some tape to do pretty much the same job as the $35 one he uses. As college man points out, air can be the culprit – get those two cycles of the radiator fan before calling it quits (filled). I\’m just sayin\’
Oh and making sure the air gets out of the system – make sure the little air valve on the thermostat is at the top (12-o’clock) position! Otherwise, yeah, some air could get trapped behind the thermostat.
Oh and I did a really good flush on my cooling system using a mix that ran in the engine for 3 to 6 hours.
Might as well hit all of the maintenance bases on this before looking elsewhere.
Good luck!
Yes as the other people here said just go and buy an OEM thermostat, sometimes an aftermarket thermostat causes problems to the cooling system. After you replace thermostat make sure that you bleed the cooling system.
Let us know how you getting on.
[quote=”eliaskok” post=124419]Yes as the other people here said just go and buy an OEM thermostat, sometimes an aftermarket thermostat causes problems to the cooling system. After you replace thermostat make sure that you bleed the cooling system.
Let us know how you getting on.[/quote]
The car I have is a Mitsubishi Galant. The thermostat I had problems with was manufactured by Gates, was not the cheapest one.. This second I bought is Herth+Buss. I am not going to buy a thermostat with Mitsubishi logo on it for three times the price… But anyway, Thanks for the help!
Honda cooling systems are hard to purge. My Subaru will nibble on the reservoir for days after the coolant is changed. Every Mitsubishi I’ve messed with you fill the cooling system, run the engine until the thermostat opens, fill again and you are done. Hint to other car makers – make them all this way.
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