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Well first off…im glad you got it fixed once again.I think its time to get the vin number of that car tatooed on your arm,cause its been a war.Then the darn car just toys with you eric….which makes for a great show and educational too.We all have been there where a car just keeps tail piping us in the berrys.
A few detailed questions about this job that had me a little puzzled.Replacing spark plugs-Might the water that was sprayed on to the intake that was leaking break up some of the crap inside and be possible to foul the plugs?
Replacing the intake gasket-Would a possible overheat on the previous two engines cause the intake to warp?or the gasket itself being put through two engine overheats cause it to become brittle.
Would the burning of oil in a cylinder cause for lower temps?or a carbon build up in the cylinders?
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This kinda came out of left field. You saw the video earlier in the week and there were no codes for misfires then nor was there a flashing CEL. At least this time it seems to have gone away and stayed away.
I doubt the spark plugs would be effected by the water, in fact spraying water in the intake like that is a valid way to break up carbon in the combustion chamber. As for the intake being warped I don’t think so, I think it was just a cheap aftermarket gasket that worked it’s way loose and cracked. I ran the intake nuts down pretty good when I put the engine together but when I took them off to replace the gasket they seemed kinda loose. As for the burning oil you saw the deposits left on the plug, those are the same deposits left on the inside of the cylinder. In fact spark plug reading is just that, looking at the spark plugs to get an idea of what’s going on in the rest of the combustion chamber. To my knowledge I don’t think it has a cooling effect but it does foul out the plug and offsets combustion as it upsets the mixture.
Great video, couple questions. First, with the unmetered air coming in from that intake gasket leak, were you surprised it didn’t also set a lean code? I know OBD II codes aren’t always perfect, but that seemed like a large leak that might set a lean code. Also, I know if you had your way you’d replace the plugs with new ones, so in no way do I “blame” you, I guess I’m just confused why the customer doesn’t want to spend the money on new plugs since they’re so cheap and would make little difference in the bill. That’s just the way it is, and at least your spare set seemed to have worked. Finally, I noticed the car had a Fram oil filter, and was wondering if you installed that? I’ve heard a lot of not so great things about Fram filters, and was curious if you use them for a specific reason. I’ve seen a lot more positive about Wix or some other brands. Thanks Eric!
What for is that rubber thing on axle? You can see it at 26th minute.
I forgot to instal it, when I changed CV boots, will it make any difference?[quote=”RyanS93″ post=37192]Great video, couple questions. First, with the unmetered air coming in from that intake gasket leak, were you surprised it didn’t also set a lean code? I know OBD II codes aren’t always perfect, but that seemed like a large leak that might set a lean code. Also, I know if you had your way you’d replace the plugs with new ones, so in no way do I “blame” you, I guess I’m just confused why the customer doesn’t want to spend the money on new plugs since they’re so cheap and would make little difference in the bill. That’s just the way it is, and at least your spare set seemed to have worked. Finally, I noticed the car had a Fram oil filter, and was wondering if you installed that? I’ve heard a lot of not so great things about Fram filters, and was curious if you use them for a specific reason. I’ve seen a lot more positive about Wix or some other brands. Thanks Eric![/quote]
Good questions. As for the lean code what about the misfire code not showing up when I pulled the codes for the speed sensor in the other video? Yea a lean code is possible but that would need some drive cycles to set as those are set because of LTFT. What bothered me was that code never showed up till after I fixed the speed sensor code and replaced the O2 sensor. I was shocked when he called me the same day and said that now the car had a FLASHING check engine light after I just finished fixing the speed sensor and O2.
As for not spending money on new plugs, this was the genesis of the “Should You Eat It” video. Since I had put a new gasket on the engine when I did the engine and I didn’t catch the intake gasket problem before it left I didn’t charge him anything for the repair therefore I put in used plugs instead of me or making the customer buy new plugs after it still had a misfire. It all worked out in the end however because the car is gone and has been for a couple of weeks now with no problems. If you’re eating the cost of a repair you don’t spend money you don’t have to.
I did not put that oil filter on. Personally I’m not that picky about oil filters because for me there is no profit in oil changes but I have heard people voice the same concerns about Fram oil filters. I have seen issues myself but have not experienced them personally so in a way it hasn’t effected me enough to do something about it.
[quote=”raimonds100″ post=37231]What for is that rubber thing on axle? You can see it at 26th minute.
I forgot to instal it, when I changed CV boots, will it make any difference?[/quote]You’ll only find these on OE axles. It’s a damper to help prevent vibrations from the driveline at speed. I have yet to see an aftermarket axle with one of these installed but the strange thing is that I haven’t seen or had complaints of driveline vibrations without it installed.
Can we have a pool on what FUBARs on this car later to bring it back in and when? Closest gets a free hat? 😉
Mine:
1. 45 days
2. no oil (gotta play the odds)I know you guys wanna see that civic go away, but I enjoy watching the repair videos on it. I might be a little biased since I have a 1999 civic. Did you have any problems with a cracked manifold? I’ve owned two 1999 civics and had problems with both. This is an apparent problem with these vehicles.
My bet is that it will come in for an overheating issue. I’ll give it 30 days.
i gotta say….the “censoring” that occurred as the floor jack was being placed had me cracking up.
….so to speak!
this is the kind of car were you just have to say its cost way more than its worth
with the year of that car the second engine I would have just junked it it was NOT worth the money and the labor Now if it was a 57 corvette then by all means keep it going but this Civic has seen better days:whistle:I hope I don’t see that car again anytime soon and not because I’m tired of working on it, it’s just making me look bad.
i actually saw an arcing as soon as stopped squirting water and right before he started saying “and u don’t want to put your hands in here once it’s all wet etc… My question where is the arcing 😀 cheers!!!! true story
[quote=”Disastermaster” post=38057]i actually saw an arcing as soon as stopped squirting water and right before he started saying “and u don’t want to put your hands in here once it’s all wet etc… My question where is the arcing 😀 cheers!!!! true story[/quote]
I didn’t see any arching, besides you often hear it more than you see it. I think what you saw was a glint in a water droplet. The truth is that when doing an ignition test like that the engine will normally start to run rough when you soak the ignition system indicating a voltage leak.
It shouldn’t be junked imo. It’s the last few years of Civics that had a full wishbone suspension and lots of room under the hood for mods. Now all we have are Mcpherson.
In general the 1990s Civics and Accords are very reliable except for a few issues and their early CVT transmission in the HX. You have to make sure the engine doesn’t run out of oil though and keep the fluids clean!
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